davebugs

I own 3 MKIV TDI's at the moment. So I'm rather firmiliar with them. My 01 Golf I bought new and is ready to turn 200k. Can't bring myself to pull the trigger on the thing. Whish is the only body style I'd like to add to my air cooled collection(I have 6 from early 60's to the last year convertible). The tracker conversion was done well and the driveline only has 16k on it. It is a butt ugly green inside and out. I did some Google searching and on thesamba with really no luck on this thing/tracker conversion. Perhaps I was guessing keywords wrong.

We have a winner. Yet another way Ethanol will harm you. 6 month old Ethanol gas will cause problems. Sta-bil was slow to put out an "Ehtanol" produst but they have, it' sgreen, and usually called Marine. I can start an old VW with 10 year old real gas long before one with a year or two old gas with Ethanol in it. Just sayin..

Welcome. Please DON'T Double post. Read here about Head Gaskets before just doing a water pump.

I'v got Outback complete fornt bumper assy's - too bad you'r e not close.

Welcom eto USMB. WHen in doubt grab the rearend too. I'm not positive but the rears are probably hte same other than maybe drum versus rotor. But grabbing them both insures matched gearing. I believe I've done htis with early 90s Impreza's and Legacy's without issue on 5 speeds but it's been a while.

Dan, You don't have a useful location. But pulling hte crank SENSOR around here often leads to bad things. Perhaps no wonter or salt where you live?

I buy reman's and don' tbother trying to rebuild them here in the rust belt. You'll have enough time in cleaning up the pad carriers, etc. Descale/derust usually with a file for me. As pointed out dont' forget the pad holders BEHIND the metal shims the pads ride on. ANd I wire brush the stainless pad shims an dlube them too. You'll likely need rotor and pads too is stuff has been frozen up.

Yea - what code! Usually it's a hose. Rarely a canister

I know 99 headlight are different and think the new stype started in 98 for Outbacks. Pay attention to corner lights when buying - that is the difference. That said they may fit and wire up I don' tknow. But it's whether the corner light is part of the same piece as the headlight.

Get the plier type of clamps - including a largeer one for the splined crank pulley. Thay and installint he lower left idler last makes all the difference.

o.k. I'll go clean up my typing skills in my original response.

Not really. Not a real exact science on most cars. I believe some Acura's you check them like oil. When cold and not running. Now that's the way it should be. Yea - I understand all the TC reasoning and it's effects on level. But if folks can't read it well it's less likely to even be checked. Leading to premature issues and possibly failure. I'm talking all auto trans - not just Subaru. I think this could be the best advancement in automotive technology. Keep your battery cars, give us an ATF dipstick that's easily read!

Yep. Double check the hot wire stuff too. A lot of times if you undo the nut up by the positive battery terminal there is lots of crap hiding there. ALso the solenoid hot wire to the ignition switch. Sometimes you can see how crappy the wire under the red cover is. Because it certainly does still sound like something electrical is going on. Perhaps Cougar is alive and well and has specific recommendations. I lack sophisticated electrical knowledge (and kinda like it that way).

Most are .044 Check with the place you bought the plugs. If you purchased the correct NGK's they always come gapped correctly it seems. The gap is part of their part # I believe.

Outbacks give you another inch that is much appreciated on the fuel tank side. I'd say start soaking the 3 phillips screws around the fuel cap. They can go bad. The rubber washer behind the metal piese applies pressure so the first few turns are tight - be careful.

I've got one for that.The usual rectangle one with 2 square black buttons. Can't swear it works or that battery is good. PM me if interested with an email and I'll send you a pic.

Actually the more "teardrop one) with 2 grey buttons has part# A269ZUA111 ans the little red light lights up when I push a button.

I doubt it. By that I mean I did 95-99's Outbacks and one 99 Forester. And I assume the alarm/keyfob changed basically with the body style.

And if it's a late 90's I have some keyfobs here heading to Ebay. I have on esquare one and one a little more teardrop shaped. Both probably need batteries by now.

I'm feeling all fuzzy. How much to spend on one toy? Going today to look at a VW thing on a GEO Tracker(Suzuki) frame. I hauled in a 2000 VW TDI tuesday that a kid screwed up the timing belt on and probably bent valves. Especially for the "crawlers" it appears a VW diesel into a Suzuki is somewhat of a common swap. Seriousely doubt it's worth the time and money but potentially I could end up with a VW Thing/Tracker/VW Diesel AWD(yes AWD). I 'd have to believe it would be the only one! THe Thing isn't cheap though

First place to look for adapter is Kennedy Engineering - they were the king of VW adapters back in the day and still around.

There are threads already here about Subaru's diesel which ISN'T coming here. And folks selling Subaru Diesel engines here in the states. My DD is a diesel, I'd love to see it. But VW even only brings a small portion of their Diesels here because of all of our red tape. Don't hold your breath.

I write on airbox with chalk mileage of last replacement. Then every time I'm changing the oil I don't have to run to the computer to see how it's due. Try and find cheap chalk like at a dollar store. On seriousely a chunk of "innards" from drywall/sheet rock depanding on what it's called locally. I usually have one ahead for all my vehicles - just like oil filter and oil which I stock more heavily. Air & fuel filters, transmission and radiator are the forgotten maintenance items. But the air filter has the shortest service life.

I go 20k to 40k depending on the car. I check them every 10k when changing oil (and usually rotating tires at 10k too). I "flip it" end for end to lets say find a cleaner surface. All airboxes cause the airflow into the filter to not be evenly distributed. This will start to leave a dirt mark you can see. So often it gets one flip at 10k and changed at 20k, sometimes it lasts 30-40k. I forget the ratio on how bad a dirty air filter can hurt mileage due to the ratio of air vs. fuel in the combustion chamber. Often neglected, easily changed.

My first choice was always to fing a local alternator/starter guy and have him rebuild it. Unfortunately my last guy just retired. Yet another trade that's being lost to CRAP. Other than that I'd stay away from "Worldwide" brand reman's. I've got several here that are like new and are bad.