davebugs

And I believe I saved one or two of those but I don't recall the name. Infact I believe i have one still attached to the back of that kick plate somewhere.

Folks often need this pic, and the understanding about the rear main. Thanks

I guess first clarification is abotu the sound. At the start I thought you were saying the speed was different (meaning timing belt). Crank and no start occasionally with no code I've had be crank sensor several times. The crank sensor can become it's own project. If you have any thought about removing it start soaking it down. That bugger often disintegrates when trying to be removed.

Yep check the tensioner pulleys and AC and PS pulleys while you can spin them by hand.

Intermittent is the worse kind of problem! I likely have a used/tested good starter if you'd like to go that route. But if you think it's the starter I'd check all the related wiring for corrosion first. After that you're just throwing parts at it until it does a hard fail.

2 things. The cam sprocket hash mark outta match up "dead nuts" with the timing belt back cover notch. And it's very hard to see, but there is a hash mark on one of the 3(IIR) tabs on the back of the cogged piece that goes over the crankshaft behind the harmonic balancer. It matches up to a hash mark you'll see basically under the crank sensor.

Welcome to the USMB. Many good folks here. I can't recall the answer to your question. But I am cleaning up and have a bunch of owners manuals. If I find one from the early 90's are you interested? I believe I saw a '92 around here recently.

I'm not following what you are talking about. All 2.2 auto's since 95 have EGR so they have the foot long metal tube(for the year span you're talking about).

Search on Mizumoauto here. SOmefolks had troubles with Ebay kits and I think it was them. I think most of us use theimportexperts. Actually GD will probably have a preference or opinion.

I pull the fans. Put cardboard behind the radiator because you likely will accidentally hit and bend some fins. If the fan bolts break you gotta pull the rad which sucks because mostly of the lower ATF line. And it just became a bigger, more annoying job. You may be able to do a timing belt job without pulling the fans. But Id think it'd take a while and there would be no skin left on your hands.

If both cam sprocket line up that's be rare for the crank to jump but the cams be in alignment. I'd do a ccompression sheck I guess because it's simpler. Really one cylinder on each side should give you a very good idea. Much simpler than pulling the rad fans and getting the harmonic balancer off - not that in the end that may be what it takes.

I recently started a thread about a 95 that simply jumped time. Wasn't able to tell until I took BOTH sides TB covers off. No bad cogs on the belt - weird. I guessed that whover did the last belt forgot to slide the tensioner left before tightening up the 2 bolts. I had my friend ask the garage where it was towed to take off the R side TB cover because it's the easiest and they got back to me that it was tight and did rotate - and they were correct. When I took off the L TB cover I knew what the job for the day would be... Good luck. I've got some 96 Impreza 2.2 heads here that may go on Ebay tonight or tomorrow. If you need then hollar. They may be one of the last things I list since I don't really wanna ship them.

Sounds like the belt. Pull both timing belt cover ends off to get a better idea. Only 3 10mm bolts on each. That should tell you if broken. Or is it jumped time if you line up both cam hash marks.

Take a file to the end, then I wire brush the studs. ALl to free up the threads of crap. If you can get them cherry red with a torch they usually come right out. On old member here Skip helped me do a few that way. I've been lucky enough using these procedures that I've never broken a stud in an engine I cared about (did break on e in a 2.5 that was junk so I didn't care). So no pointers about the one already broken. And I anti-seize the crap out of them. And use the expensive nuts from the dealer. Whatever that coating on those nuts is works pretty well. The same nuts as uses on exhaust , eng/trans nuts, cross member nuts.

Please stick to this thread only. The next guess (and often doesn't throw a code) is a knock sensor. Effected by moisture, often cracked. The search function will lead you to lots of information.

When this needs done I do it mid way or further from the base to make sure I don't hit the nipple on the car. You can also try things to "shim" under the band wrench. I often use cardboard, sometimes old 80 grit sand paper. Since at the base you get the most bang for the buck because the leverage is more "true" and it's harder to collapse at the base.

I'm aware of what it is, and have used it. I just can't believe it existing on a 5 speed.

Actually I doubt the fuse holder even exists to plug one in. Why would it?

As I believe has been mentioned they can be real stubborn to get out of that rubber Oring in the washer tank. Probably due to age of the rubber. If you have a used one handy I'd oconsider that. Because I believe you're gonna be taking the old one out to get some leverage on the old pump(s) to get them out anyways. I've never tried instaling them, but have taken them out to be cheaper to ship to an Ebay customer.

Search here for HVAC light or similar. There are 3 bulbs - I just get them at the dealer rather than mess with the radio shack bulbs. Disconnect the cable in the pass footwell rather than the back of the control unit. Not a bad job to do.

Yes. That'll help make sure you burp it correctly. A new WP and OEM/new Stant thermostat. I'd have the rad checked while it's out too. After the timing belt job you should be golden.

I understand all that very well. It had codes for cyl3 & 4. The car is at a friends 50 miles away and his sister drove several hundred miles to get there and got the code on I80. It calls for the cheap plugs BKRE5 or the "double platinum" that say laser platinum on the box IIR. Also IIR they say plugs at 60k so she's about due. I was gonna grab the fancy plugs (I stock the cheap ones) and a coil and head up there. Then backtrack 20 miles to dealer if plug wires were needed. That was my plan. It was cold/wet when she got the codes. Now no more problems so apparently she's gonna try and make it home. From what I've seen ANY electircal problems causes the opposing cylinder to have a missfire also. A bad plug, wire, or coil. I told him to swap wires back to front so if the code came back they could tell if it followed the wires or not. He had spine surgery before Thanksgiving so I don't know if he did it or not. But no codes since the lady had them cleared while traveling on I80. I did recommend he get a cheap ODB2 reader because they come in so handy for everything since 95/96. If she does get another code and he did swap the wires that'll give insight to the wires which is one of the 3 main possibilities. The plugs are due anyways so replacing them is no biggie. I'll be curious to see what the problem ends up being. I dont know her for all I know she'll take it to the dealer and get plugs/wires/coil - wouldn't that be a sad day!

Thanks. I believe she's gonna try and nurse it several hundred miles home this weekend. But good to know both these work.

Welcome to USMB. Lots of good info and folks here. I've edited out most of my response. But if it's physically loose its bearing, ball joint, or tierod end(s). Even a bad/neglected/dry axle shouldn't cause that.

That's it! I'd just wait until you do HG's if possible. Then reseal the engine, new plugs, idlers, belts, an be good for a long while.