davebugs

It's a spin on filter near drivers axle. OEM or WIX is what I used to use (big price difference at the time). I used merc/dex III

I'd check axles. I had this happen to me and it was LF axle had some play. You may just be paranoid from having engine out. On a lift with it in park and ideling grab the axles with your hands and see if it gets quiet or has lots of movement.

Often asked. There is a thread here this week. Need to disassemble it all, clean and lube sliders, pad carriers and shims, etc, and new pads and rotors. If you just throw pads/rotors at it and don't free it up on the slides you'll be doing it again soon. And more importanly will likely effect mileage and/or stopping power.

WAY different. The wireing and EGR come immediately to mind. But congratulations on using the search. And welcome to the USMB - lots of good info and folks here. The site will be upgrading soon so if you come here and it's dead that's why. Search here recently about EGR - someone is thinking of fighting that battle again - and I don't think it's ever been done successfully. Then look at the wiring connectors at the eng/trans. On the old car there will be 3 plugsm, on the new car 2 plugs. I believe speed sensors are different also. Do LOTS of research before starting this. It'll bolt up, but never plug in, and have a constant CEL due to EGR if you ever do get it running.

LOVE happy endings.

You've got a lot going on there. I have good 96 2.2 heads and intake here PM me if interested. I wouldn't waste my time with a head that won't even "keep" a plug in it. So further troubleshooting to me is pointless.

Always better to start with an engine you know if possible. And if you're looking to start with as major of a project as a block unless there is something we don't know I'd certainly fix this one.

Well, that one was certainly "used up". Congratulations on the longevity.

Not making sense at all. Too many issues. I'm ENE of town and go north (Butler) or S (Greensburg) oe E (INdiana) often. You can't get PM's yet. Are you on this side of town? Look at the engines timing belt covers and see if there is one "dimple" on each side's black timing belt cover or 2 on each side one above the other. There are probably pics around here. Part of what you're describing is typical DOHC failure but your car should have a SOHC. Has anyone serviced the car lately and had a reason to drain the coolant? Currently is the coolant overflow bottle overly full? And the radiator itself not full? Added: MIles? How long you've owned it? What maintenance history?

Sounds like HG's may have caused the other codes. That should be a 2.5 SOHC - can you confirm for us? Also please update your profile with a useful city. A member may live near you who has experienced this before and may be able to stop in.

But I believe no one wants yellow...IIR. Probably something we all actually agree on.

Recently a revived topic. And while the mods are busy with issues and pending upgrade it may halp pay for the upgrade. Search a bit. This was refreshed a few weeks ago IIR.

Which is why I "undid" my answer but couldn't figure out how to delete it. My response was the same about under #3 basically with the 1" stiff hose going to it.

My answer was for a DOHC

I've got one in the scrap bucket from I beleive a 92. Make me an offer by PM. I'ts in one of 3 5 gal buckets of Subaru Water pumps heading for scrap.

I call the head bolt torque procedure a Mexican hat dance. I agree the most bizarre I've ever used. Glad you got it done.

The molds at the time wer ein Canada bought out of Bankrupcy out Michigan way. Weird deal. They weren't using them, and didn't plan to, but when it got time to discuss buying them they didn't wanna part with them. I had a manufacturer lined up for the Fiberglass work that had been making heavy truck body parts for years so they were firmiliar with Fiberglass stuff for the road. The dumb thing they did (but didn't have a way around) was cut out and lower the floor pans under the seats. The NB was beat. 2.0 with bad top engine noise nd a new oil pan - I think they go together.. Good news was an excellent job of a sunroof/headliner/etc. Linkage or trany suspect. ONly real good hting was the seats. Curb rash on wheels. Kid paid 500.00 to have a "chip replaced" after last wreck "because you need one when a VW/Audi has been wrecked". Airbags did not go off. 19yo clueless kid says he's put 4k into thte car in last 6 months. Hood, wing, fuel door all lreplaced and painted poorly. Current major scrape R door into R qtr. Aftermarket radio somewhat in the hole in dash from teh factory radio. Dash vent sbroke. Generally kid beat. SO while noone has actually taken care of it he was proug of the Neuspeed intake and exhaust and aftermarket radio! Getting the picture! Gotta run.

PLEASE update your profile with a useful location.

Yea - look further ahead. You'll need to drill and tap the block I believe. And you'll need that foot long metal tube to go from the block to the hear IIR. I may have a 96 2.2 head if you need it.

No new beetle parts - almost bought one monday but it was a kids car. 98 and 46k and beat to death. Big garages or little garages full? WHich kit car? At one time I tried to buy the Porsche Laser 917 molds to make them. Came closest to buying a stearling. Was more inclined to make another buggy but now after the accident back is a bit stiff (for getting in and out), neck and back crack a lot, so I'm thinking the buggy will hurt. I never even dug out the one I already have this summer.

Several have tried - all thinking it could be overcome. Haven't seen it overcome yet, so if you do please post how you solved it!

I don't believe the 99 calls for anything exotic. I run the NGK Ugroove 2 dollar plugs with the green writing BKR6E-11/BKRE5-11 or something like that. And stay away from Bosch Platinum.

I'm parting a 73 Beetle right now. Minor accident damage on R side. I bought it that way 15 years ago. Tires of it taking up space. Planning on keeping title, pan, engine and transaxle. Engine and trx likely to go in my street legal buggy that's blowing oil. Pan and matching title will be put aside incase I ever do get through all my antique VW's and want to do a kit car or another buggy. I have some MKIII and MKIV parts and will have more MKIV parts from the GTI I was driving when I got hit. Entire front clip is good including the VR6 and 5 speed tranny (I also have an auto trans from the wrecked 99.5 Jetta I bought to get the VR6). I currently own 10 VW's. & air cooled's, 2 TDI's and the wrecked GTI (it WAS a beautiful car). All the antiques are in the pole building. This 73 Beetle has been outside covered for the last 2 years though. Not it's on the lift. What years VW's do you play with? I largely skipped from air cooled to an 81 diesel pickup then on to MKIV stuff other than cars I bought to part. I even invented a MKIV rear axle beam bushing installation tool that kicks a$$. Infact I started a thread here about how to handle new tools and what experiences folks may have had. I rent one that's actually on it's way back from texas right now.

the one on the right is the 96 Impreza I'm parting. Now heads and intake, etc are off too. Here are some of the other engines. This pic is old Gary Gross did get the only 2.5 SOHC I had for parts. This industrial shelving unit has 7 or 8 I believe all 2.5 DOHC's on it or under it. Including a good 99 DOHC I'm not gonna part. A few other running 2.2's floating around (97 and 95) and some other stray 2.5's. A few too bad to consider usable due to rod bearings or I've sold a lot of parts off. an old odds n ends shelving unit of Subaru and VW stuff. The entire Blue industrial shelving unit is now full of parts and engines. And parts are stuffed other places too. The Silver Legacy hood is long gone. But I do have a Legacy and Impreza plain red hood both off 95's. Doors are inside (as well as mirrors, etc.) fenders, bumper covers, radiators are outside. These pics are from my album here and are several years old. I actually have a lot more stuff, and thus stuff to get rid of.

And these engines have always been stored inside. And weren't abused when removed. No wireing cut or other similar shortcuts. So no weird rust or corrosion, water in the internals, etc.