davebugs

You should do very well. An excellent price and certainly not worth messing with used at that price. Good luck.

You may wanna flush the fluid first. I bought a Motive pressure bleeder. Works slick. ALso makes it a onw person job. And if you break off the bleeders - well your caliper decision is made. If you wanna buy some used calipers I probably have some from an Outback or two here. But I'd buy reman myself.

I believe concensus here is that everything after 97 is interference and all 2.5's (SOHC or DOHC) are interference. And my experiences so far back this up.

It's theoretically a one year engine. Only bad Subaru engine experience I've really had has been with this engine. Took 2 engines, 3 engine pulls, and ended up making a 2002 Legacy engine work. It was a nightmare.

Alternator. Another symptom is if after a short drive you start loosing power at high RPM's.

IIR ALLDATA has the process. But I've never had to do it either so I don't have it either. But if you know someone that has ALLDATA it would be worth a few bucks to have the procedure printed out.

Injectors rarely go bad. If 97 Injectors will work and you're willing to pay something for them PM me. The only 99 ENgine I have is a good complete engine so I'm not taking it apart. Usually I jsut sell and pull the fuel rail with hte injectors in it - seems easiest.

I suggest the 2 dollar NGK's with the Green writing that are U groove. I'm an old VW guy. And I've seen more problems with particularly Bosch Platinums (and other exotic metals and brands) on Subaru, VW, Volvo's. Don't overthink it. More expensive isn't always better for a specific application. The BKR6E11's are what I'd recommend. Just make SURE you don't end up with the 2 dollar NGK's with Blue lettering and no U groove. The wasted spark ignition system doesn't seem to like them as much perhaps.

SO many possiblies. But often if it barely starts and dies a hose is off. It's a rather ridgid hose that often is hard to spot with the naked eye. On the pass side it comes out of the airbox at the throttle body and heads over towards the strut mount. FEEL for both ends, since often it appears to be cnnected. It's roughly a foot or so lonh, a little over an inch in diameter? It'll cause the start and immediate dieout.

Swap the plug wires (1 to 3, 2 to 4). Did you install new plugs? See if the problem follows plug wires or stays with coil. I have a good ignitor here if you need one PM me.

For the prices quoted you could rent a car for trip and have a DIFFERENT competent shop fix the Forester and still be money ahead...

Run!!!

If you read up Merc/Dex II really isn't available because they no longer license the name (or some crap like that). But meeting the spec and regular servicing are most inportant. IIR it takes a little over 4 qts. I check ATF level to make sure it's at the correct level while dirty because it's easier to see. Measure what I remove. Put in new 1/2 quart less to start. New ATF (especially if doing the poor mans flush) gets awful hard to read.

A 2.2 HG problem is also pretty rare. Glad you solved the miss.

Perhaps you're done then. If you end up doing plugs ask here. Don't go exotic. I forget what you're working on. But if it's DOHC use the NGK plugs with green writing that are 2 bucks each.

I'm a simple "swap parts out" kinda guy since I have the parts and it's easy to do. You need Cougar or someone. With the knowledge and patience for electrical detective work. I've NEVER seen an ECU in a Subaru go bad - perhaps I'm just lucky. I don't even pull them when I scrap cars. Good luck

Opposing cylinders typeically means coil pack, plug, or wire problem. And is much more common than a single cylinder problem you originally had. Try swapping plug wires. 1 to 3, 2 to 4 and see if it stays with the cylinde ror plug wire. Then try plugs if it stayed with the cylinder.

Folks here had told me that it can be done. Takes a heck of an angle to get it out of the engine bay. Can't say it'd be something I'd look forward to. I have passed on project cars because I didn't want to find out just what this takes. So please if you do document, pics even.

Been a while but IIR I bought a T and T' din somewhere in the small lines by the intake for cyl#3. Perhaps someone else here will have more precise assistance. Also sometimes there is a square plug (there are 2 holes in the intake above #3 and simply removing that plug and grabbing some stuff from the 2.5 will go a long ways towards figureing things out. Also recently someone here was missing some plumbing to be compatable on the 2.2 they were putting in so search for it. I may have the 2.2 intake you need but I'd have to look.

I'd inspect (mostly looking for bad burnt oil evidence) and then leave the cams inplace. They are matted/worn in by this time and match the head. And as pointed out are easy enough on a SOHC to change later if necessary. Now if its ugly under that valve cover I might rethink it.

I believe it will work. Both are even 2.5 DOHC's Here in the rustbelt the screws can be tough. Often I believe I remove the plate it bolts to - but it's been a while.

I've got an ignitor setting here beside me somewhere known good. If you're interested PM me.

Lets put it this way. If one is broken I can buy the car awful cheap. And they should be mandatory in my opinion when doing a clutch job. For a few bucks they are in there deep, just replace them.

I believe they do. WHen I did my swap both engines had EGR.

I've done similar and think you'll be o.k. If noone knows for sure I'd say youi're o.k. I did an 01 Outback into a 99 Forester SOHC. The timing belt was different, I used the intake off the Forester, but all worked well (after 3 engines it all worked well that is).