davebugs

Often when you undo the 4 TC to flexplate bolts the TC still likes to pull out a bit. Then the reseating becomes an issue.

I gave away my last set. Takes 2, rather cheap

DOn't forget the get the TO bearing clips when at the dealer!

I have no experience with the old Subaru's. But on other models of cars sometimes the belt is actually intact but it eats the nubbins off the belt. So at first glance the belt is actually in place - and it is. But it's still bad.

Good luck. Glad you got the clips.

In the area of O2 sensor connector. Never worked much on Forester's though. On Legacy's the O2 connector is often white.

If you were on this end of the state I could hook you up with a place and the necessary tools. DON'T forget the OEM TO bearing clips!

My opinions. Pull engine. Dont replace rear main unless doing more than weeping.

I put a dab where the half moons meet the head and gasket. Just like in the corners up by the cam seal(best way I can think to describe it).

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I htought they had chains - but don't know if there is a recommended (or common sense) interval. Part of me thinks that newer owners aren't the bulk of the members here. But yea - I was looking fo rinfo like we know about other series - head gaskets, baffle plate, rod knock, etc.

Anyone with any info? He's gotta decide today whether to buy the car or not. Thanks

Having troubles searching since I don't know their proper name. I friend called tonight to ask me about an 03 Outback 6 cylinder with 160k his nephew is looking at. I did know enough to ask if it had a CVT and he didn't think so (he's actually a mechanic so I'd HOPE he'd have noticed a CVT). I have NO experience with these so I don't know what to look for. And I don't follow threads about them and thus am having search difficulties. So - what's wimpy about these and how to check for those issues and/or what maintenance to ask about or have done. Thanks

Those valves probably have the shims to adjust - a bit of a PITA.

I had a thread resembling this a few years ago and I believe some pic sin the thread or in my "album" of the ex GF's. I was just doing normal servicing and was amazed at how used up the fluid was. She had no symptoms at the time. I have no idea how she's made out since (and it ain't worth opening that can of worms to ask).

Fair price. I figure 200 labor for complete timing belt job - seals, WP, idlers, reseal oil pump(after checking screws - if appropriate), etc. Just make sure he has a way to get the crank bolt TIGHT.

I have a friend with a 97 GT sedan that has had this problem for atleast the last 5 years. He did buy a set of 15" tires off of me for winter a few years ago. I'll have to ask him if he has the same issue with both sets.

As already said youi're about at the cutoff from my experience. 95-97 or so are simpler at the top I believe because the charcoal canister is up front on the pass side by the radiator. When they moved the canister to behind the pass rear wheel the filler got fancier (and more expensive). I believe I have one left of the earlier ones too.

Post your year. Some of us know to save those. But the hoses at the top differ some years. Ebay used to have some with a "lifetime" guarantee. If you just leave the stupid plastic shield of the next should last the lifetime of the vehicle anyways.

Dealer item. Kinda pricey. Frequent problem.

I've used traps in the mountains with mixed success. Often up there I think the glue was too cold to be effective. I just tried the old fashioned skull crusher with some squeeze Tomcat trap bait on my breezeway since I believe I saw one there this morning. I should also say that where the car is there are often cats until they are killed on the road, given away, etc. But not enough to keep up with the rodent problem.

The car can't be sealed up. The reared was almost ripped off the car - back bumper, hatch, etc. I actually saw a mouse on my back porch today. It IS that time of year. I did buy a few old fashioned "skull crusher" traps this weekend. Last time I used peanut butter on a trap I had an impressive line of ants to/from the trap in my big garage. I plan on stopping at my local feed store today - but I don't expect them to have any real stellar recommendations. I actually miss the old D-Con that looked like ground corn and stuff - almost a powder. This pellet crap I don't think rodents even like. Must have worked too well, of pissed off environmentalists. If you read most packaging most poisons loose their ability to kill when exposed to moisture. WHich means as they empty the poison containers often they are storing it rather than eating it (especially chipmunks and squirrels) and by the time they eat it it's unlikely to kill them.

Don't know how to describe it properly. But no - no need to mess with lateral bolt at all - that's why I do it that way. From (my poor memory) an arm attaches a couple feet towards the rear diff and infront of the rear axle. I undo them there.

I just buy the whole "stub" for like 100.00 - I don't even do rear wheel bearings, just replace the whole deal. Too late for you to go that route. But I highly recommend that approach, atleast here in the rust belt.

I did reread this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125902&page=3&highlight=mice I have a weird situation. I have a VW GTI (and I found out VW uses Peanut oil in their wire insulation!) that has been setting at a place with junk cars and such. So I figure it's infested with mice. I plan on having it delivered to me and placed on my lift (or as close as we can get it) since the rear end was almost ripped off the car. In the same garage as the lift are a half dozen antique VW's. So with htis GTI setting in a place where it's probably infested and wanting to get the mice out of the GTI BEFORE bringing it into my garage what are some idea's? Unfortunately my friend isn't reliabel enough to have him drop it outside then come back later to get it onto the lift. No I don't have a cat and the only neighbor with a cat - well the cat is kinda old and doesn't come over here much.