davebugs

Back in the day a local shop used to cut new sunfoors into cars and trucks. I'd grab metal there - but that isn't done as much anymore. I've been known to ask local body shops to keep damaged hoods and fenders to be metal donors. I have some stuff here to play with my MIG welder when I get a chance that came from the VW dealer bodyshop. Duct work (galvanized) I believe makes toxic fumes if welded. I'm also not so sure how well putty and stuff sticks to it even if roughed up pretty good. Just remember to use 1/8" rivets when possible to aid in hideing them later.

Too new to PM. Email me at davebugs at yahoo

PM coming

I used to pay less than 200 for a specific Valeo kit. I say specific because I paid an extre 15-20 bucks to have all components Japanese for American (rather than 3rd world countries). Make SURE you get the TO bearing clips at the dealer while you're doing this in my opinion. I got my Valeo kits on Ebay but I forget from who. But someone will be a little more expensive and list this options of components from countries we think of as having better standards.

You've got good odds if you're swapping the whole system. Thereis a CHANCE you may have isues due to O2 sensors - their palcement is different. If so I don't know if swapping ECU's woul dhalp or open another can of worms. Physically I beleive you'll be fine. Sensors ?

I've used a block of wood on similar ghetto repairs in the past. That way your hammer is out where you can actually swing it. Also the endo of the 2x4 (especially if you round the corners) doesn't leave as many dimples in the metal. But yea - just buy used doors that match way cheaper and pretty easy to swap.

I switched an antique VW (62 single cab) to DOT 5. Because I was redoing the brake system. Master cylinder, reservoir, wheel cylinders, brake hoses. Used my Motive pressure bleeder. First think I ever did DOT 5 in and it's been on jack stands the past few years waiting on the bumpers and wheels to be painted. Which reminds me I guess I outta call him! I went to it because this truck doesn't get many miles (or any recently) and it's supposed to basically be lifetime. Doesn't draw moisture much. Not at all for performance.

Never triel online coupons before. Poked around a bit and some interesting stuff there. Thanks for the link.

IIR at some point the SOHC WP's get kinda pricey. Infact I didn't replace it on the old GF's car at 100k when I replaced everything else on her 2006 Impreza. Also the mechanics at th elocal dealership said the new ones hold up better than the old ones.

You've set of fthe alarm. Slow 4way blinking is the symptom. Ironically you can still start and drive the car! Look for a little black button under the dash. If you're lucky it's by the hood release mounted. If you're unlucky it's in a mess of wires under the steering column under the dash. A generic black button often taped up with electrical tape making it even harder to find. I think htere is a way to cycle the key a bunch of times or something. BUt I always figure I need the find the button anyways to program keyfob's if needed.

What state are you in? Several folks here have talked about this but I don't know of anyone who had done it. The electrical stuff is too much to overcome. Also on a personal opinion note I don't think you can find anything more reliable than a 95 2.2. And it's a very easy swap - search around here a bit and you'll see.

Check the title of your thread. And PLASE update your location to something useful including state. The title says one year and the body says another. And welcome to USMB. Lots of good info and folks here and a very useful search function.

Iowa is first in the primaries. This is their golden goose. I'd prefer to think logic will prevail, but it never has with Ethanol. The folks in office will buy Iowa's votes again. And not only will we continue to directly pickup the tab. But they are trying to force us into buying new cars that they have determined all the specifications on. And this crap keeps ruining small engines, and the older the car the worse it is. Take it from a fella with 7 antique cars. So we get worse mileage and it hurts our cars. Politicians see us as being non-compliant to their tree hugger agenda so they keep forcing us that way. Ethanol ironically hurts the environment, distorts world food availibility and price yet then continue to push it. But Iowa votes first!!

I thought it looked pretty well done too. Of course where the "cab" meets the bed and the tailgate are the problem area's usually. It does look like they got the class figured out. Not too shabby.

That "sounds" like some cars that have a maintenance reminder light. Used to have to reset it on a Honda - I forget how now. But is it a low oil level light as originally stated or a maintenance reminder light? I have no knowledge of any Subaru's since 2006, just sayin' I know atleast some Japanese cars atleast(could be others) there is a maintenance reminder light to be reset and that's different that a true oil issue.

Anyway you look at it you're gonna have to yanh the engine (what I do) or trans. Carefully inspect the clutch fork, or just buy a new one. Definately the little TO bearing clips(2). After you get it apart you can think abotu TP bearing and such.

Tear it apart, remove engine or trans. Usually the folk cracks too far down to see from the outside. Just do the clutch job and source a clutch foltk just incase. It is amazing how many forks crack on Subaru's. ALso don't forget to ge tthe TO earing retaining clips at the dealer. I have seen them cause this problem after they break.

Very tight - not much help. I usually run them on with an impact and I'd guess about 90 lbs or so. But for those that know I assume you're talking about the bunch of them around the crank that hold the flexplate onto the engine and not the 4 that hold the flexpate to the TC(infact I don't know how you'd ever be able to measure ft/lbs there anyways).

A lot of times if it's an auto the "rod" gets bent and really doesn't tell the ignition it's in park. Sometimes removing the shifter cover can help find the problem, sometimes it IS the problem. Some cars I believe you can remove the key with the car off in neutral. Unless I missed it would help to know year and model, as well as auto or stick as folks have been asking.

Some cars you can just use a bolt extractor on and be done with it. Don't know if a Subaru has the space. On my VW one of the first things I did was get rid of those lugs! My local VW dealer will remove them for a fee (coffee kitty money). I don't live in the city and out here most folks have guns. Cuts down on petty crap like getting tires stolen. Last thing I ever want to happen is have a flat and not know where the lug key is because I had someone else rotate them, check the brakes, whatever.

Yep!

Another thing is that if the stamp is something other than Subaru you know it's been replaced somewhere along the line.

Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good folks and info here. That's a bleeding screw for your radiator. Never seen one like that. If you can't get it to seal you'l need a new radiator. If the rad isn't full be hesitant to drive the car. And if you have been driving it there is probably now an air pocket that can cause significant damage through overheating the engine. Search here for "burping procedures". CLiff notes version is remove lower rad hose and drain the coolant, reattach lower hose, fill through upper hose until it won't take any more, then fill through rad opening.

I have always used OEM cam/crank seals. I also happen to like their WP gaskets but last kit I bought the WP from theimportexperts and the WP gasket was the OEM style (rubber coated metal) and seemed quality.

All it takes is a 10mm to pull I believe 3 bolts per side on the "ears" of the front covers. I use a 1/4 drive roto ratchet with a long socket. See if the hakh marks on the cam sprockets line up with the back of the timing belt cover on BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME. That'll give you some information. Actually to fully check it you need to remove a bunch more stuff then the harmonic balancer and middle section of the timing belt cover. Compression check is best to check for valve damage. But visually checking the TB for alignment first is needed. Otherwise you may cause more damage.