davebugs

I've bought more cars than you'd think not long after a dealer timing belt job. Probably because they are embarrased at what OEM idlers cost. Every person I've asked said the dealer didn't mention or recommend idlers at all.

Yep - dots and hash marks!!! Make sure you get the crank bolt TIGHT. And if you're doing cam seals and stuff break loose the cam sprocket bolts BEFORE removing the timing belt - it's a lot easier. A lot of us always replace the idelrs with a kit.

I've got used plastic ones w/screws if interested PM me.

I never order online. But it's also called an "oil seperator" plate. ANd if you're switching materials I hear you need screws as well.

Easily. And if you tore that VC off to do that job you could also try and make sure Ultra Grey didn't find it's way places is shouldn't be.

They ROT, not split. Usually at the bottom bend where hte plastic shield holds stones, dirt, sand, and moisture. Do a little searching here and you'll probably find some more pics.

Would have been easier if you would have posted a direct link to a pic. But that's it. Usually they rot at the bottom behind the plastic shield and the rest of it look spretty good. If it's not on an Outback it's pretty cramped where the short hose attaches between the filler tube and tank. The extra inch on a OBW really helps.

Kind of an expensive dealer only part. I have one used one left that's servicable but nothing special. Don't know if it could be coated or anything before install. Send me a PM if you may be interested in it and I'll get you a pic. I think it's the one you need. They vary by the EVAP lines towards the top in the wheel well.

2.2 bolts right up, you need one w/EGR. I'd do the MMO now, it's often needed to quiet down an engine after a HG job. But that said you probably did do damage and wouldn't be surprised if rod bearings end up failing. Read here about "burping". If it was overheated and classic overheating issues you'll need to remove lower rad hose, reattach, remove upper rad hose and fil lthrough upper rad hose then top off rad - is the short version.

My DD is a VW diesel. I have one single port Ypipe left to sell. If you need it PM me. There are always recent threads with basically your question. And there was a recent thread a fella started to complain that in his situation some of us told him he should consider a 2.2 swap rather than fixing a 2.5 with unknown history. By making him aware of his options somehow he was bothered by that. Lots here, and a helpful bunch. But still best to use search and research a bit first.

Welcome to the USMB. Many threads similar to the question you're asking. Try the search function but here are some basic answers: The Impreza engine will work if you use it's Y-pipe(single port). Confirm that the 2.2 has an EGR (it should). Many other years of 2.5 and 2.2's will fit - most common other component needed could be a single port Y-pipe. A 95 2.2 automatic (has EGR) is the most direct fot (has a dual port Ypipe and is non-interference) so it's the preferred replacement engine. Donor MUST have EGR.

The Impreza engine will work if you use it's Y-pipe. Confirm that the 2.2 has an EGR (it should). Many other years of 2.5 and 2.2's will fit - most common other component needed could be a single port Y-pipe. Donor MUST have EGR.

As an observation Cougar is THE electrically related expert here. Based on the advise I've seen him give others.

Let me restate this. If you took parts off the "problem" engine and placed those parts on a good engine - was everything fine? In other words I'm questioning your "known good parts". Not as a personal thing, but as a diagnostic thing. And proving they work on another car confirms that they are o.k.

Yep. Changes it from electrical to timing, mechanical or fuel if problem stays on same head.

I've got a street legal dune buggy that needs rings (40 lbs of compression in all 4 cylinders). The same garage has a dozen Subaru engines in it. All are EGR though because that's always what I needed. Being a buggy MAY make the radiator stuff easier. Currently I'm unable to do much work, hope it gets better. I get the 71 bus back together and off the lift and some other air cooled's that I own need a little work/maintenance I'm thinking the buggy/2.2 thing would be fun. Many years ago I did a few Corvair conversions. Please update your profile with a useful location.

Please keep us posted on the project. I may do the same conversion myself some day since I have Type 1 and Type 2's here and 3 good Suby engines laying around. I can tell you this. As long as they all have EGR you can swap engines between automatic and manual cars all day long. That said for most swaps like you're doing folks seem to use engines without EGR on purpose. There is another thread here about someone who just did this swap within the last few months.

Now that folks see where you're at perhaps some folks will have other idea's for you over the weekend. It's still unusual to have 2 sets of HG's by 140k. WHo did that work? Because this is really the same - other than sending the heads out. I can't see how this would cost more than 2k at an independent shop as a ballpark.

Update your profile with a useful location!!! At 140k I'd immediately think independent shop. After we know where you're at someone from here may suggest a shop. I'd probably fix that engine since you know it. If no piston damage valves aren't all that expensive and if they haven't been done you're due for HG's anyways.

First though would be to double check "known good" stuff by installing your "broken" parts on a good running car and seeing if the problem follows the parts. Reason I say this is because that problem should be electrical (not mechanical or fuel delivery). Didn't ask what brand of wires because 2.2's are pretty forgiving. Because you've swapped the electrical stuff (except ECU which very rarely go bad) and also have wiggled all the connectors during swapping as a way to double check those connectors.

This should be a sticky. A lot of us answer it a lot of different ways, but this is what it boils down to. Infact there was a recent thread where someone was complaining we were "pushing" 2.2 swaps. Infact in a lot of circumstances they simply make the most sense. Another note the HG's from Subaru aren't out of line price wise versus the Felpro's at a chain store. I also recommend the OEM crank, cam, WP seals/gaskets and oil pumo Oring while you're placing an order.

Back in the day we had a few 454 Dually's at an RV place where I worked. Had trouble with the trucks running well when bringing back trailers from Elkhart and such. Ended up beingt brand new cats. We tried using the redneck method - a cold chisel through the cat and mufflers. Worked like a charm. Then we fixed it proper. A day later we got a load of LEER truck caps. Guy used the phone to call home and complain about how crappy the truck ran when hot. Guess what we did? Loud but worked. I assume they "fixed" that truck when it got back. Brand new Chevy trucks. I'm fichting an intermittent miss in my 97 Astro van AWD 4.3 Vortex. Changed 3 fuel filters, all the normal tuneup stuff. Gonna put a new fuel pump in next week. I only notice when towing, and never a CEL. DOn't forget the crappy gas they force us to use. Local mechanics have been seeing more burnt valves in cars so far this year it's amazing. I just got back form my local independent power equipment dealer and he was telling me how bad it's still getting for his stuff. So I'll be following along with curiosity to see what ends up fixing your problem. It may help me with my issues. And yes - I've checked my cats.

You CAN do it in the car. I don't see how you can do as well of a job and it'd porbably actually take longer to get the same quality work. Checking & cleaning up the block, checking it for true while in the car - I think is a compromise. Trying to make sure no fluids get on the head gaskets when doing it in the car, etc. Go ahead, do them in the car, and you'll be able to say you did it. But that's the only positive that I see doing it this way myself. I started to do one this way one time and lost patience and just pulled the engine. And then you can reseal the baffle plate - which never hurts! Don't get me wrong, you're the one doing the work. BUt I'd pull it.

I get the HG's and all seals at the dealer and ask for the latest torque procedures most every time. Don't forget to check heads for true, or have them checked.

From the commercials it's very overpriced. Just get an ODB2 reader for 50 bucks on Ebay or watch they go on sale at Advanced auto parts. After you get the code (which most chain places will read for free anyways) and have internet access you're set. If a Subaru search here for the P code. Otherwise just google the code. You just saved yoursefl a bunch of money and will have better/more detailed information including how other folks have corrected the problem.