davebugs

Not lookin' good Gary. Actually I can't believe they let them go out the door like that. If they are too bad to repair PM me. I have a set on an engine that had been overheated many times - but I'll make you a heck of a deal. The intake is off but the heads are still on it.

Always like a happy ending. Congratulations.

I always send them bare heads. Less chance of crap being in the heads even after their steam bath gizmo. Also then I know tha status of everything. Check for abnormal wear, use assy lube, proper torque's, etc.

One cylinder missfire is a bit rare. Usually means it's not an electrical/ignition issue. I'm outta here soon for several hours. Someone else should pick up with your questions.

You also still may not be correctly burped. Make sure wen you think it's o.k. take the car on a 45 mintue to 1 hour drive. See if it overheats. No AC on (yes I know it's wnter). If it overheats it's still not burped correctly and/or HG troubles. Most of the timing can be rather easily checked by removing the timing covers on both ends/sides. To make sure the timing mark on the crankshaft is set proper it's a bigger deal (more to remove).

2.5's like OEM wires. Get the cheap NGK's with the green writing BKR6E's or something. They are like 2 bucks each. Don't forget on this engine an electrical missfire on one cylinder will also generate a code on the opposing cylinder. So if the missfire if for 1&2, or 3&4 it could still be one bad plugwire or plug, or the coil pack.

I've had luck with seafoam. If you do a search here there should be plenty of reading. Feed it through a vacuum line. Makes a HUGE cloud of white smoke. Under 10 bucks a can. Worth a shot to me. I've done this with several and put another 1k or so on them without the code coming back. The old GF's 06 Impreza now gets this code when she gets cheap gas. Try a major refiners station for a while.

I have found them excellent to deal with. In all the kits/orders (I'm always adding or subtracting something) I've had 2 minor problems over the years. Those issues were handled promptly and very satifactory. That's atleast as important as price. They were recommended to me here on this forum and now I recommend them as well. I have also started buying other timing belt kits of of them with the same success. Remember to check Ebay FIRST. Sometimes they have deals on Ebay that aren't on their website. The boss decides to run Ebay specials and some of the workers don't always know what he's running. They will match that price if you've done your homework and know to tell them. I'm personally still hesitant to install the MitshbOshi belts on interference engines. I did recently buy a kit for an 02 and got the WP from them and cam/crank seals. I must say the WP gasket and seals look OEM. Haven't installed them yet on a friends car. I have OEM parts here incase he wants to use them instead.

The hoses (and the OEM clamps) can be a pain. Especially the lower one. Clamps rust and twist, limited access to get them off even with hose clamp pliers and battery removed. If you remove the ATF lines you'll very likely need new hose clamps for them too. I always replace all clamps. I live in the rust belt. One of the assortment wall racks is what 50-60 bucks? Ideal clamps? Then I usually buy a different brand that aren't the same sizes and end up with a drawer full of boxes anyways. If folks are unaware boxes of clamps are much, much cheaper than individual. Like if you're already buying 2 often for the price of 3 or 4 you can get a box of 10 or 12. Kinda like car tail light bulbs(other than headlights).

If you remove the rad and it's an auto you've gotta unto the ATF lines as well as the rad hoses. Unplug fan connectors, 2 bolts for rad supports, 2 hoses, 2 ATF lines, and you're good to go. Somehow I usually get ATF in the pan with the coolant but am usually putting new coolant in anyways. Sometimes the ATF lines can be hard to reach(lower one) and be a bit crusty. So often for me it's whether I wanna hassle with typically older ATF lines (clamps will be junk - that's part of the problem). Another factor for you could be if you're doing the WP you'll be draining the coolant anyways.

The cars I see typically are far beyond that before needing replaced. However if the baffle plate was leaking. Of if they didn't know how to drive a stick. I'd suppose a lot of city driving or towing. Other things come to mind. But that isn't many miles for any clutch it would seem if they knew how to drive.

Plastic rad fan assy's. Unbolt and unplug them both and lift them outta the way. Place cardboard or an old piece of pannelling behind the radiator so you don't mess it up.

Based on what I saw in your pick I'm not so sure the key was o.k. But it is hard to tell. I'm outta here for a few hours.

Sometimes I put red on the flat surface on the back of the harmonic balancer but personally never put it on the threads of the crank bolt. Others here may. Most important thing is to get the crank bolt TIGHT.

Ethanol free gas is "real gas". What you car was made to run on. If anything will help your car, pure gas will.

180k is my cutoff that I've found. Beyond that folks around here won't pay much. But I'd do the exact same thing - if it were local and under 180k.

That's cause it's been force fed to the rest of us. You folks probably know how evel it is and laugh all the way to the subsidized bank! Clueless and "green" politicians strike again.

A few suggestions. Are you nuts? An 'R' title, 200k and needs an engine. For 2k? Outbacks must be worth more out there but if you can't do the work yourself you're probably better off taking a pass on this one. A 2.2 would be the answer rather than tryin gto figure out what is messed up with this one. And that's probably gonna run you 1k or so. Now you're over 3k into an 'R' car with over 200k and you get to find out what ELSE is wrong with it. Things like torque bind, rod knock and such. Folks here will do their best to help. But I'm thinking you outta pass if you can't 2.2 it yourself. And even then it's questionable.

A black plastic pulley? Usually they break after something happens and the valves crash. There is another member going through this exact some thing now. Another member had this issue a few weeks ago.

In the end you're probably gonna have to remove the tiing belt to clean the groove and install the new key. Just to get you prepared. And at that time you can check the splined part's keyway slot as well.

I'd say you need a new key. Make sure the slot it fits into is clean. The key you have doesn't stick out enough - it's like a half moon. Both ends should look the same. You need a key and crank pulley/harmonic balancer. I gotta head out for hours. When I get back hopefully you'll understand what you need. If not I'll see if I can find a key and take a pic of it for you. Remove and carefully inspect (if you have the timing belt off or are going to) the splined pulley on the crank that's behind the crank pulley and look for damage.

Odds are very good of valve damage. At 200k it's probably getting a little tired anyways. If a pulley truely came loose I'd suggest a different independent shop. If a pulley failed please post the brand and where purchased if possible. Dampner pulley confuses me. There is a crank pulley/harmonic dampner pulley - it's the big one on the end of the crankshaft. That is different from the idler pulleys that are run by the timing belt. We need more information. If the harmonic dampener pulley came loose they don't know Subaru's - we're back to finding a member or an independent shop that knows Subaru's. At this point with these issues and that many miles I'd probably suggest (at the expense of folks complaining lately) to do the 2.2 swap. Lots of information here on fixing the 2.5 or swapping in the 2.2.

If you can get to my photo album I have a few pics of a similar failure and you can see how that mating surface of the crank pulley should look. Except in the pic I have posted the keyway is bad, as is the other parts including splined sprocket and oil pump.

From memory you've got a problem there. That crank puller/harmonic balancer shouldn't have that groove worn into it. I don't have any pics handy though. I will look later today or see if I have any engines easy to access that I can take a pic of.

I've never had good luck with those. Soak them with whatever penetrating oil type stuff you have over there. I pry with a screwdriver, put channel locks and locking vise grips on them. Often here they are just too rusted to ever come out complete. Good luck. I'm hoping someone posts a brilliant way to do this that I haven't tried.