davebugs

I agree on checking them if you remember. But I haven't found any loose on a 2.2. Always made me wonder if it's a different part#, or something to do with the manufacture or assembly of the pump for the 2.5's. Because I've witnessed it plenty of times (loose screws) but always on 2.5's. However if I put one back together and somehow forgot to check that I wouldn't tear it back apart. A 2.5 yes I would tear back into it.

Is it A 2.2?. If so checking the oil pump screws isn't as important. Get the oil pump O ring at the dealer. Ultra-Grey at the outo parts to seal the oil pump. (If you go to the parts store they're gonna sell you a kit for the oil pump with the Oring and paper gasket if you let them). I forget but 95, 96, maybe more have the 2" thin cam Orings (come 2 to a set at the dealer). Later like 99 don't have these Orings. You can't reseal the baffle plate without pulling the engine. The rest of what is recommended can be done with the engine in the car. Don't forget cardboard or old paneling to protect the radiator.

Experience on the 2.5 DOHC's and price. OEM are about the same price as Fel-Pro's and don't have issues. Theoretically Subaru updated the design of the HG's. And if you ever do a 2.5 DOHC HG job look at the old one. The new one has more layers. That said the 2.2's HG's hold up and OEM would make less of a difference. FYI I use FelPro on most other cars - just not Subaru. 2.2's hold up so well that I don't do the HG's on them when doing an engine swap. I reseal them, tiing components, plugs, etc. Some folks have reported luck with "Cometics"(sp?). But if you search around here for folks that needed to do HG's TWICE I believe they were ALL done originally without OEM HG's. Why take the chance? It's a lot of work. The good news is that a fella outta be quicker the second time doing the exact same job on the exact same car. I can do without that kind of experience for a few bucks. I buy enough Subaru parts that the OEM's are about the same price as Felpro(I get both discounted). What you do is up to you. I'd say search a little and learn from others. Make up your own mind - then live with your decision.

Obviously depends on the price of the parts. I have enough heads that I never need valve work. I just have them surfaced and checked for cracks, cleaned, etc. I can't give you good advice on used versus having these done. But used ones you'd likely want to have surfaced anyways. Perhaps others who have had this issue can give their experiences and/or opinions.

I recommend it all the time here. I'm amazed by how many folks think they will make out better for some reason. Some will, most I don't think will. I suggest the new piece of pipe route because I've been down this road many times. I understand folks like to do things themselves. But this is a case where paying just a few bucks for the correct materials, expertise, and tools (pipe bender) is worth it. And I have a lift at home so it's easier for me than most to piss with this. Someone should somehow make this a "sticky" suggestion for the most common exhaust leak. It seems way too many folks are causing themselves to loose money (on the parts trying to fix it themselves) and time/aggrivation from trying to fix it themselves. In the end they get it welded anyways. The only other solution is to buy new pipe and cat(s) which is nuts.

Common - that's why I go the welding route. For the time and effort you have in it and it's still broken isn't worth it. Now find a local INDEPENDENT shop that can bend pipe. Don't go to a chain for a reasonable repair for something like this (some would say for anything). It confuses them - how to write it up, split it between the shop and employee, etc. So they just keep adding $ to the job. Show up with cash at an independent shop and let them "work you in".

Refresh us on whats wrong with the heads. I have some cams dug out for you. I mean lots of have heads that were on engines that were overheated (HG's) abd/or bad rod knock. If that's what you have you might as well jsut have yours done. Are you SURE the car wasn't repeatedly run too hot? You're looking at some more money for parts too. Not much - like 100 bucks for HG's, possible intake (usually not needed). Getting heads done, and a lot more labor and expertise doing the HG's.

All the brakes lines I've needed to repair on Subaru's have been within a foot or two of the rear calipers. Just sayin'. On VW or Chevy's they can go anywhere here in the rust belt. But on Suby's it seems to be where I said in my experience. Aslo master cylinder or brake booster failures are rare. So rare that I don't remove them when I scrap a car. Often if someone can pump the brakes while youi're underneath you can often actually hear the squirt/leak and know where to look.

Seals - only OEM for me. Less that 10 bucks each. Aftermarkets usually don't last. Did the WP come with a metal coated rubber gasket or cardboard? My dealer list: (I usually don't bother with a new thermostat unless both old ones are bad/aftermarket/cruddy) crank seal 2 cam seals WP gasket (if all you have is a cardboard one). 2.2 cam O-rings (2 per bag) exhaust gaskets? Is the Ypipe the same?(both single port?) Auto parts store: Ultra grey for the baffle plate. Coolant oil & filter fuel filter NGK Cheap Ugroove plugs (BRK5E's or somethign for the 2.2 - green writing 2 dollar plugs) assembly lube if you don't have it sometimes for the seals and that plate you gotta remove to do the Oring on the back of the passenger side head. anti-seize for the plugs and dielectric grease. Hardware store: PVC collar to "set" crank and cam seals (Take them in to get the correct size. The same collar will set both seals).

O rogs on a 2.2 (dealer item). 2 couple inch thin Orings. One behind cam sensor on drivers front (do this before that cam seal) second on back of head on passenger side. Reseal baffle plate on rear of engine. Crank & cam seals. Usually timing belt and accessory belts, idlers and WP for me. Heck I even put new NGK's in it while it's out even though on a 2.2 they aren't bad to do in the car. They you're good for a while. Make sure you've read about torque converter seating and what happens if it's not (bad stuff).

EGR!!!! Trany doesn't matter. Use the flaxpalte off the '98 (it's the only one you'll have anyways). Double check that it DOES have an EGR though - just for kicks. Reseal it while it's out. Except in my opinion the rear main.

When the OP posted this I had a response about the care and abuse the first 100k but didn't post it. A WRX is NOT a car to buy used unless adult owned and then it's a crap shoot. Same as some of my generations favorite cars of the time. They just get too "beat", especially by the young folks - who are the exact folks who seek them new and used. You wanna buy a good used car, buy an "average" car. High performance cars have usually seen better days. Excellent mileage tomato can cars are often owned by cheap folks who include in their cheapness lack of maintenance. From cheapest wiper blades, to cheapest filters (if they know what a filter is) to longest oil change intervals, you get the idea. A Legacy or Impreza comes to mind actually....

Yes. Should be a DOHC 2.5 Just like the Outbacks.

IIR recall it's the design of the pan and not the dipstick.

I'm unfirmiliar with that kit. If you can post some pics. I don't think there is a full procedure here on how to do this repair. I couldn't find one and forget to take pics of the repair. Often just before and after pics. But overall you're not bad off. Just make sure you get the crank bolt TIGHT. I doubt you get a second chance at this repair.

Nope. Search for stuff like "2.5 engine swap". Heck - there may even be a sticky. Plug and play (assuming hte EGR and dual port exhaust). No EGR on donor is hard/perhaps impossible to overcome. Exhaust thing is just a different Ypipe. Please update your city. I gotta belive there is more than one town by that name in the United States. Someone near you may have already done this.

I have a motive PRESSURE bleeder. Much better than standard "bleeding" or using a sucky toy. Air doesn't suck well - it just expands. They have a screw on adapter for the Subaru Brake resevoir. I have like 6 adapters and "universal" adqpters. I believe mine was 80-90 bucks. May be money well spent now that you're in this predicament. This way you're "pushing" the fluid and air bubbles, rather than trying to pull them. I've loaned mine locally to VW and Subaru guys who have done htis the old fashioned way and got into a jamb like this.

95 WITH EGR is non interference and dual port exhaust.

Welcome to the USMB. We have a handy "search" function. This is a popular topic. Highlights are a 95 2.2 from an Automatic (WITH an EGR!!) is most preferred. A 2.2 from 96-98 will also work but you'll need it's Y-pipe. Reseal the new engine before installing.

Was it an Outback?

amazing

I know there are pics, or links to pics probably on cars101. The "reset" button for programming keyfobs. If you're lucky get on all 4's and look up behind the hood release pull for a little black button. If you're not as lucky at one time it was wrapped in electrical take on a mess of wires under the steering column. May be easiest to take off the panel if you don't know what you're looking for. It's a black button. Then kinda hid them up under there and made then inconvenient to find. There is probably an explanation of where to look for the module up under the dash as well.

If you search here, or ask here about "resealing" a 2.5 folks will tell you to pull the oil pump and chack those screws. Most of us find one or two loose. Most Loctite them - I just usually tighten them. BTW this also leads to the discussion usually of whether to install the crank seal into the oil pump then put it over the crank. Or to install the oil pump on the crank then install the crank seal.

You gotta allow for the "groove" you're trying to take out. Generally anymore folks replace rather than turn them. They are already typically heading towards warpage and have had many, many heat cycles. My local place is 8 bucks to turn then and I buy new instead. Only exception is if it's just due to rust from setting. The shop that's gonna cut them should be able to tell you.

Every 97 Outback I've had included remote entry. Perhaps look for hte little black button to program a remote. That may be easier that looking for that module under the dash.