davebugs

the only rear main seals i've ever needed to replace is because someone else has a.ready done it prior. i've never had to replace an oem one. i use a pvc collar and a block of wood to install the new one. a real seal puller may be suggested to get the old one out. good luck

i probably do 160-180 lbs. don't go light. very unlikely to break crank bolt - which would be a real pain to remove

both of these are a bit obvioud - don't be offended. the flex joint is the very likely culprit. is you pulled the entire exhaust in one piece to test i still dont think you could test this well. the other is that the baffle plate is leaking and you're smellin oil and not exhaust. typing one letter at a time left handed - sorry for lack of punctuation

half the time I'm not. but both engines are here so it's easy enough to look

I disconnect one of the fuel lines at the car, the other at the intake, the third is a different size. No tape and marking needed (since gas has a tendency to screw up tape and markings).

Rearb main NO - unless it's very, very obvious it's leaking. Because you're probably gonna cause yourself problems. Baffle plate - I usually clean and reseal with Ultra Grey. A lot of folks get a new metal one with the matching new screws.

If you used OEM HG's I'd look at WP spout, coolant hose, even the rubber hose that goes to overflow bottle. You could be chasing the wrong problem. If not OEM HG's - you're on your own. Did you start by placing pizza boxes underneath to see exactly where it's coming from?

Have you manually rotated the engine over 2 full revolutions? Most of us do that then recheck alignment. Tensioner will have taken up slack, belt kinda "seated in" by doing the 2 revolutions w/breaker bar/ratchet, etc.

importexperts don't have every kit on Ebay all the time. But whne they do have stuff on Ebay sometimes its an even better price. Had that experience with a VW clutch kit recently. I think they are open this monring on the left coast. I just ordered another set friday for an 02.

rad fans. Rad can stay in

Nice location. Tells us nothing Just do the HG's and you can have a good 2.5 for under 5k.

Yea - that's when I post looking for help I always state year, engine, tranny. Will make it easier to find in the future for folks who use the search feature that may have similar problem.

Someone probably didn't put the little holder back on the lower eng/trans bolt on the pass side to hold that O2 sensor wire and it rubbed. I doublt they go over 200k. There are probably 2 (forget ehat year you're working one). Search for discussions here. One is thought to be needed to be OEM and the other generic seems o.k. I always buy OEM because I don't need a collection of aftermarkets that didn't work. Search for "tubing wrench" - like I said probably even on Sears site. I don't have a 7/8 tubing wrench. On a Subaru the connector is small enough that I use a 7/8 box end. Easy to hit with a hammer too. But keep soaking that puppy.

Tubing wrenches are great. Especially for brake lines. I even use one for that EGR tube that goes from the block to the drivers side head in the back when doing HG's. More contact points than and open end, but still with an opening to get around brake line, or other "tube". Sears puts them on sale a few times per year. SOmetimes the better brands are thinner and sometimes that's nice.

Where in PA are you?

Congratulations.

I ASSUME he's meaning the marks on the belt. They really aren't needed. Helpful but not necessary.

Yea. Not only does it make it easier but little chance of damage. I couldn't believe I had waited so long to get one. Glad you thought it was worthwhile.

Wow. All the Subaru's I've done I never realized those holes in the side were there. Never needed them, but didn't even realize they were there. I've had to see them, amazing. Thanks for the pic.

Get other comments. When you pull the pin in the tensioner I think you'll be o.k. That crank splined piece should get pulled a smidge right when the slack gets taken up. Double check after you pull the pin. I usually then rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions then look at the marks again. The belt marks won't line up but you don't care as long as all 3 of the timing marks line up. I'm not likely to be online more this evening. Tax man tomorrow.

He's talking about something else. And I don't recall seeing what John is referring to on both sides giving access and too lazy to put on winter clothes and go up and actually look at an engine. DON'T STICK ANYTHING the whole way through the harmonic balancer. At the least you'll ruin the TB cover. You could also harm the belt, oil pump, etc. I know there is an access whole I believe I already mentioned. At the eng/trans behind the #3 intake where you put the torque converter bolts in for an automatic. Some folks stick a long screw driver, pry bar, etc in there. If you take that route I'd likely try and get a friend to hold it to make sure it doesn't slip as you apply serious torque onthe crank bolt.

Now that's a tough call. It's tighter than it was for sure. But you won't know if it's tight enough until it's too late (and the harmonic balancer starts wobbling). To see what happens I had some pics in one of my photo albums here about one that we fixed (had a friend help on that one with the welding and such). My first tool needed "tweaked" between uses as well because it would bend a little. Those ones I had the machine shop make seemed to work better due to no or little warpage. If you're friendly with your dealer perhaps you could borrow their wrench? Even if you had to leave a deposit? I could see that happenning before they would do the job themselves. Then again - it could be tight enough. Hard to tell from here. I use a longer breaker bar I believe or impact. The Snap-on BB I use can be used to loosen the crank bolt. By that I mean it barely reaches to the subframe over by the battery. And I'm 235 lbs. But I've never had one come loose. Tough call.

Still no location showing. We are still having Db issues. I have fixed those cranks. Removed engine, welded, dremel the notch, new key, new harmonic balancer, etc. Amazing what damage can be done by the unknowing. I don't look forward to fixing those. I buy the car figuring on putting a new engine in, if I can fix it then I'm ahead.

I've gone to Advance Auto's universal stuff for Suby's and most other cars. Looks like Mountain Dew. My local rediator shop uses it and recommends it. I have obtained the Subaru real stuff for Skip (who isn't on here much at all - enjoying his retirement and travels) and it was really pricey for his wife's car. You know - the dark green stuff - looks like pond scum.

Just take your time. No anti-seize from the factory (stupid!) even though dissimilar metals. I use anti seize and dielectric grease on the tops of the new plugs. Sometimes the plug wire boots can be a pain as well.