davebugs

Heat is your friend if possible. Clean those threads out with a wire brush. No sense it trying to pull more crap through that nut than necessary. You can try some juice. Remember either the nut will come off or the stud will come out of the head (hopefully). If it breaks in the head it's not a pleasant day.

Sucks. I use a PVC collar. Pay attention to how far the old one is in there and get an OEM. FYI my local dealer doesn't stock them.

All the above is good advise. Personally I'd get it all done at one time by an Independent Subaru shop and you'll be good for a very long time. IF the PS rack is leaking I've had excellent results with Lucas Power Steering goo. Excellent experience in general and specifically on Subaru's.

You cleaned both surfaced well and used a sealer like Ultra Grey? If you bought an upgraded plate did you get the new matching screws? Has the rear main ever been replaced? Because if it has it may actually be the problem.

Definately. I often order "custom kits" - like add an extra cogged (I thry and keep one in tstock for the really cheap folks because it does fail first). Often adding an idler or two, or without the old style tensioner bearing, stuff like that. I've continued to deal with theimportexperts (who by the way have a few different names on Ebay and websites) because I've had 2 minor issues and resolved quickly and well. Learned you gotta check Ebay first sometimes their prices there are better. As long as price is fair and customer service is good I'll keep using that vendor until given a reason to deal with someone else. But I'd imagine others sell the exact same kit for about the same price.

Noise, feel and "tightness". If they spin easily it's because there ain't much grease left! You gonna gamble on another 100k on them?

Most of us but kits form theimportexperts.com You can search for them on Ebay as well. Good value, no problems and I've installed many - probably more than 50. I hear their WP's are good too but I get my WP local and usually my timing belt but they have several timing belt choices. Now their accessory belts are real cheap (I got Continentals last time) like half what other name brand belts are - like 5 bucks each or something. OEM idlers are expensive. NAPA & chain places don't seem to be a good value (some parts are CRAP often. I tried 2 local independent small chains, Advance, Autozone, before folks here recommended theimportexperts.

I put a jack under the diff, never tried further back. Makes sense the diff is weird shaped, pan is flat. I always do the TC bolts from the top myself. For one thing to remove them if that access plate is actually still on there its a bit of a pain to remove. Someday perhaps I'll try the TC bolts form the bottom. I do know several folks that do them that way.

I use a Gearwrench 1/4 "roto head" ratchet and a socket. I never could find a good box end with the offset that worked for me in my existing collection. You'll need a cheater bar - they are tight at the start - don't hit yourself in the head when they break loose. I stuff a rag in there incase I drop the bolt when removing and installing.

I got my tool at the local parts store. But since them I've noticed that older Sears stores seem to stock them, not so much with the big fancy new Sears stores.

I almost always have the engine out. And have only used the Lisle tool on engines that were out. I think it would make the job in the car much less stressful and do a better job. Since it acts like lever to pull the seal.

Get Ultra Grey. It seems to be the choice of the board and what I use. That is the Lisle tool that I use when I an find it. I believe it comes with 2 pieces (interchangable) that goes into the seal. Hard to tell but if you look close in the pic there is a little kinda lip on the end and that's how it bites. I did many with a pick or screwdriver before obtaining the tool. But nothing would be worse than marking the crank due to having the wrong tool.

Shoot - too bad you didn't see this on any procedures. Too late now but break them with an impact while timing belt is still on. Still a GOOD impact can often do this. Depends how up for danger you are. I have held them by hand with a serious IR 2131(?) impact. Some have tried sticking a screwdriver through the spokes (I believe that engine has the aluminum pulleys), some take an old timing belt and wrap it around and figure a way to hold it still - then hit it with an impact. Point is that now (no timing belt) I believe an impact is gonna be required. Because it is "quick" compared to a breakert bar, etc. Lisle does make a "universal cam sprocket" tool. I think mine was bad outta the package - hard to adjust and lock (when 2 screws are tightened).

You should already have a jack supporting the tranny. Jack up the tranny some to assist (make sure pitch stopper has been removed). Between this and a "balancing bar" on the cherry picker and you should be good to go. Tranny is a bit of a weird shape to set on jack, a block of wood helps but still kinda dainty. Someday I may make something better that is a big U or somthing wraps around the sides of the tranny and doesn't move.

I actually prefer the dealer bulbs. I'm not much of an electrician, and can never get the colored rubbers off the old bulbs. All 3 bulbs at dealer IIR are under 20 bucks, come with the proper base, etc. So I'd let your comfort level of electronics help you decide which bulbs. Definately disconnect cable in pass footwell.

I make sure they are there. Those 2 lower points are how I line things up, make sure the engine angle is correct before sliding back to the trans. Did you seal the baffle plate? If an auto are you CERTAIN the torque converter is seated (search here for info on this).

Don't know what year Suby you have but its the bracket that holds the alternator. After removing the alternator there is a place to hook to the bracket.

I keep one cheap chinese set for lug nuts. Yea it's bad to leave it set, but it's 20.00 and Chinese. I own decent Sears 3.8 & 1/2 inch clickers and a few old beams. Can't bring myself to buy a torque wrench that takes batteries but they are nice. Sometimes I borrow one to do HG's just to see how close the bolts end up to each other and they can measure both directions. It's amazing after all those fractions of a turn how close they end up - middle's are tighter IIR. Anything I care enough about to check the torgue on isn't gonna be from a HF product. Check CL for used or Ebay - I get a lot of tools on Ebay. BTW a lot of times it's cheaper to get a new one rather than one calibrated. However I have seen "home methods" to check the accuracy but never done it.

I bolt the "balance beam" on the cherry picker to the alt bracket and there is a loop IIR back by #3 cylinder where the engine meets the trans. Seal belts are great. That's what JY's around here use. I use them a lot but when trying to adjust the angle of the engine when going back in I like the beam. I use a clevus(sp?) at each end (sometimes they are tight on the alt bracket) to attach the engine to the chain.

Search for baffle plate or oil seperator plate. This will also help you decide whether to reseal the plastic or buy a new metal one (with new screws). When you pull the engine youi'll see it on the back. I say it kinda looks like the state of Florida. While it's out do this but not the rear main. I always throw plugs in it while it's out because it's so much easier.

That plumbing is really pretty easy to figure out especially if you have both complete engines and left that crap on the 2.2. EVAP plumbing. If the canisters were in the same place on both cars should be easy. The MAP and whatever things lines over to the pass side strut tower. Sometimes there is a T or two, sometimes not. Sometimes 2 small lines coming out of the back side of the #3 intake, sometimes one has a plug(square head) screwed into it. Easiest are the VC breathers. Every swap seems to be a little different. But really no biggie. Only other minor comment (if you haven't already read about it) is that there is no place to bolt the PS lines to by the intake - but no biggie - it doesn't matter. Do the baffle plate/oil seperator while it's out!!

All sounds good. Reseal the baffle plate and leave the rear main alone. I use Ultra-Grey, some folks like to buy a new metal one and then you need new screws as well. Best to use one of those impacts to remove the philips screws on this. I forget if a 97 2.2 has those skinny Orings for the cam's or not. On the drivers side basically by the cam sensor(that whole piece comes off so if so do the Oring before the cam seal on the drivers side) then on pass side it's on eht eback. Don't forget to really torque down the crank bolt. I throw fresh NGKs in it the cheapies but V groove with the green writing. May wanna check valve cover gaskets. I always fo all 3 belts (timing, PS, AC) infact I actually get the AC 1/2 inch (IIR deduct 5 from the last number) shorter and the one for the PS 1/2 inch longer (get tired of forgetting and having to loosen up the PS pump to get the belt one. As I mentioned here the other day if you just pull the rad fans make sure to cover the rad with cardboard or an old piec of paneling. If you need a single port Y pipe PM me - I still have 3 or 4 of each (single and dual) hanging in the rafters for sale. I use theimportexperts kits all the time. BTW always check on Ebay as well. I was shopping for a VW VR6 clutch and they had one on Ebay 40 bucks cheaper than when I called the 800#. I've had that happen but not to that degree with some VW timing belt kits. I believe they stock Dayco and Continental now and their "standard" belt used to be MitsubOsi. I usually source the Water Pump and Dayco TB local (and the accessory belts) but their prices on accessory belts were half price for Continentals. I have installed a few MitsubOshi's on 95 2.2's that were non-interference without any issues. Allow a little possible "plumbing time" for EVAP and VC breathers and such that often needs a little attention. Good luck. Not really a difficult job. BTW 14mm flex for especially nut by drivers axle. 12mm(I forget) offset wrench or I use a gearwrench "roto head" or something 1/4 drive ratchet for flex plate bolts if an auto. Don't forget to stick a rag in there when removing and installing flex plate bolts. Those flexplate bolts are tight - probably need a cheater. If you look around there should be lots of how-to's even with endwrench unavailable.

2.5 DOHC - OEM. no doubt about it for me. If you read around here you'll see folks have tried others, and name brands (and generics) and are even better doing it the second time with OEM parts. Poke around. Most of us do idlers, oil pump Oring (and check the screws) crank seal, cam seals, often WP, etc. It's easiest to yank the engine so reseal the baffle plate while you're at it and throw some new NGK cheap plugs in to (the ones w/Green writing). Of course a TB and you should be set for quite a while. Look here for burping procedures also. Not a bad job really.

Thanks for the offer. Let me know. I actually have relatives near Columbus. Neither of us travels to the other one's place often (older aunt & uncle - probably in their 90's). I have no current need. And haven't "redone" a Subaru in over a year. But if these kits work it would be good to know. I have some of those alternators that were bad new as well. Probably part of the reason I got the cars cheap. "Global" I believe is another crappy alternator rebuild. I've got a bucket of WP's as well. I always replace them when doing a TB - why not since I do the idlers and all. I've also got pushing a dozen DOHC 2.5's here. Some complete, most nearly complete. All ran, mostly HG issues (hard to believe!) and not knowing their history (thinking rod bearings) I just 2.2'd the cars. When the weather breaks just a little I'll have to check out scrap prices. I've got 3 cars and a lot of these Suby engines to scrap. I don't fix 2.5's much. Been lazy about selling parts. Also lots of alternators, starters, and leaky PS pumps. I happen to have a few 97 starters - which ARE different - stupid! If anyone wants to stop in and get a leaky PS pump to experiment with I should have several - PM me.

I get them delivered for 20-30 bucks (I forget). Dealer kit was more expensive than a good used pump. Next need, if I have the time I may try one of these kits. I've got about 6 pumps here that need fixed. Infact if anyone is local and wants to fix theirs ahead of time (in essence rebuild one of my extra's) PM me. I had just started throwing them out - leakers aren't hard to come by. And none of mine have been the simple Oring on the reservoir. It's the big metal gasket.