davebugs

You're kidding right? You've been here over 1k posts and never realized the rod bearings in DOHC 2.5's are wimpy? And it happens more often than it should that folks do the HG's and stuff only to get bad rod knock a few k later. If I know or suspect it's been driven through more than a heat cycle or two or has a bunch of miracle cures in the rad and a new thermostat and WP I just 2.2 'em also. Overheating + weak rod bearings doesn't make for a good long term prognosis. Not good enough for me to fix the 2.5 that is.

Only Subaru I've ever really, really had troubles with was a 99 Forester. A one year engine by the way. IIR took 2 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC engines, then 2 2001/2002 Legacy engines to get a good one. As a side note after using the Leagcy block/heads (and Forester intake) a different timing belt was needed (a few teeth longer). I never did do many Foresters - not the same marketability for me. And I avoid the 99's specifically. The 99 Forester engine were significantly more expensive at the time compared to the Legacy's (like 1,500 versus 1,100).

Didn't listen. But I have that flex joint cut out and a plain piece of pipe welded in at a place that can bend exhaust pipe. Really makes sense to me in the long run. It's kind of a wimpy connection anyways and not worth obtaining true replacement parts because of what you'd need due to rust.

DOHC 2.5 Just like the Legacy's. The next year they went SOHC. So the traditional HG issues. Baffle plate leaking issues(IIR still plastic). Never tried it but should be 2.2 swappable if the engine is junk.

Either pull the whole assy or just the fans/plastic. Removing fans then the rad is double work. If it's an auto the lower tranny hose can be a PITA. An excellent use for hose clamp pliers but still can be difficult. If you remove the rad search for "burping procedures" here for a 2.5. Sorry about typo's. Doing 2 things at one time (I HATE taxes, and the prep). My mind runs faster than my fingers. When I have time I actually do preread and check, and often go back and correct. On the cardboard or old paneling. It will set in the rad support - and keep falling towards the engine. A bungy can help hold it upright - just make a complete loop with bungies down the front, under the rad support, out the top. This has worked better for me that trying to anchor it at the hood latch or other choices. VC bolts will kinda bottom out all of a sudden. I haven't needed a procedure since Endwrench has been down - man I'll miss it. Folks were trying to save what articles they had. Worth a look. Most/all or what you're doing should be covered in the head gasket procedure. When are you doing this?

Odds are very good its te oil seperator plate. Unless someone has already pulled the engine or trans to fix it. And you can often tell that by looking at eng/trans bolts, or simply where the eng/trans meet - if it has never been disturbed. Heck - I even scotch brite then anti-seize the mating surfaces. If the oil gets on the Y pipe at the Y the odds are really good.

O ring naked. Ultra grey on the mating surface instead of a gasket. Some folks locktite the oil pump screws. Other than that I believe you've got it. If the engine is in the car remove rad fan assy (or entire rad assy). If you don't pull the actual rad I ALWAYS protect it with cardboard of an old piece of paneling.

Antifreeze in the oil - it's junk. May last long enough to do a bunch of work and get another 1k out of it - but it's junk. Bearings don't like anti-freeze and the rod bearings in that engine are hardly the poster child for sturdy bearings.

Get an OEM WP gasket. It's rubber coated metal. INSTALL DRY. I buy the WP local (make sure it has a metal impeller). Throw out the cardboard gasket in the box and use OEM.

NO GASKET for the oil pump. The Ultra Grey makes the seal. Be gentle with the ultra gray. Don't want it oozing anywhere and especially into an oil pump. As far as the screen - I don't recall. I don't think there is one - just on the pickup tube. Check the screws on the back. Loctite if you wish. OEM Oring. Some ultra grey to seal it against the case. You can look here for opionions on when to install the crank seal (that's really on the oil pump). Some install it on the pump face then slide it over the crank. I'm always afraid of knocking it loose/messing it up. Personally I install the oil pump cover then drive in the crank seal. But whatever you want to do. FYI a lot of auto parts have that Lisle tool. I've also seen it at several Sears with decent tool departments (tend to be older Sears).

I use assembly lube instead of grease - but grease should be fine. As for pulling you can be very careful and use a pick, screwdriver, or try the putting in some screws method. After doing the pick/screwdriver many, many times I bought a Liste puller. Looks kinda like a screwdriver with a few gizmo's on the end. Search around here - I know I've seen a part# and pic. Under 20 bucks. You can get by without it. But if you scratch especially the crank 20 bucks will seem wise. Get that oil pump Oring at the dealer. Use ultra grey to seal the oil pump. I use a PVC coupling as a driver. The same PVC piece will do both seals. Just put the seals in your pocket and go to a hardware store/lumber yard. Real seating tool is good, socket will work.

It's less than 10 bucks a can. Follow the directions. My guess would be that sensor wouldn't get as well cleaned. However it's all up to you. I've still got a foot of snow on the ground so if working outside I'd just do the seafoam to see how it does. Worst case you'll need to do it again after taking the anti-fouler out. If it's convenient I'd take the anti-fouler out.

On older Suby 2.5 DOHC's I've had success with seafoam. On a few cars I gave them the seafoam through a vacuum line, out another 1 or 2 k on them with no more codes. I've done the anti-fouler trick one time and it worked for me also. Again late 90's 2.5 DOHC. The Seafoam thing makes a TON of white smoke though. Dont' know if it cleans the O2 sensors of the cats - but who cares. Last I heard my ex GF was having the same exact issues (since just past warranty) on a 2006 Impreza. She kept letting the dealer clear the code blaming it on gas until it was out of warranty. Now it's past warranty the dealer wants to fix it - amazing! She's now over 100k for sure.

Since you're local try "Franks auto Supermarket", a small place (like 5-6 locations called A&G auto parts) as well as Advance and Autozone. I usually get Monroe's. Franks often has the mount kits for almost half the price of the other guys. Sometimes on suspension and exhaust they have terrific pricing. Just not always worth a trip tp Indiana or Greensburg for me. A&G is my local (and favorite) parts store. One in Kittanning, near Indiana, I deal with Apollo. I put KYB's on some VWs but usually Monroe's are just fine for me. When possible I prefer to deal with a local place. That way if there would be a problem I can go and speak english and get the problem resolved quickly.

It should tell you what cylinders are miss fireing. I've experienced similar symptoms on early 90's with bad fuel injectors. I forget if the red ones or grey ones were the "better" ones. Haven't had trouble with the 95-99's but symptoms sound alike from what I remember.

Sounds like a coil pack or wires. Are wires OEM. If so if the coil pack a "Diamond" brand? Can't help with a local guru. But search around here. There things (wires, coil) are easily done. Only caveat is I like hose clamp pliers for removing plug wires at the heads.

Great for hubcaps, and all kinds of stuff. I miss my old dishwasher. Cascade liquid works for cleaning your ceramic bath/shower tile (a tenant told me about it), also works excellent as a coolant flush, I'm not kidding. My local radiator shop has been known to use it from time to time. I have an old commercail parts washer but need new juice. Mine is a mess. Bought used, then degreased a ton from a long time leaking rear main on a 71 VW bus. Don't see a decent way to clean it. Haven't turned it on in months so I may try and pul the cleaner stuff off the top.

I don't usually work on anything that new. But I know their idlers don't come with the lip on them. I've never had a problem and have probably installed 20 or 30 of their kits. I've had 2 issues with my orders over the years. Infact the last kit I ordered was for a 2.5i and I got a kit for an STI I believe (an extra smaller idler) so I sent back the small idler and belt. They have always treated me well. The other problem had been I tried their valve cover gaskets and I needed DOHC and they sent SOHC - I think they just credited me for it. Hopefully they will change this kit for future orders. Still sucks.

Yep. I usually figure about 1k-1,500 including getting the heads done/checked, rad flushed, resealing the engine, New WP, idlers, belts, spark plugs, etc. 1,800 for just the HG's - you need to find a different shop. Heck - the dealer may even be cheaper. If you go to sell it outright PM me. I buy cars like that and fix and sell them as a hobby. Haven't done many lately and usually do the DOHC's but a friend is needing one so he doesn't have to plow his driveway to his hilltop home for his GF.

A bit OT but on a VW forum I frequent there was talk of NASCAR perhaps courting VW? NASCAR hasn't even been good to watch since all the slick marketing guys showed up - like the last 10 years or so. The old characters were part of what made it. Now they are just mobile decals for marketing and a money grab. Which is why if I attend a race these days it's on dirt. Personally I believe NASCAR peaked several years ago and is simply looking for revenue any way they can rather than making their product better. Through new nameplates(Toyota), through high visibility drivers (Danika and now Pastrana), heck who's the guy driving for Ganassi that came from Formula One? He came for the money and basically stated as much when he made the switch. The highly regulated quality of the races isn't very exciting. It's all about the money, including beer sales and marketing. Too bad.

Nothing sucks more than breaking a car that was running. And an electrical gremlin to boot. I feel for ya... Good luck.

Yep. T-stat is where lower hose attaches to WP snout. You remove the hose, then the snout to get at the T-stat. But sounds like you may need an upper hose. For less than 25 bucks I'd replace both hoses, and grab an OEM T-stat. Even with fresh coolant you'll be maybe 50 bucks with a few hose clamps. From your description this should solve it. Even on 2.2's it's best to fill the coolant through the top rad hose as much as possible. If this doesn't solve it atleast you know where you stand. But your description of your issue is rare.

Release button is hidden by a black plug. From memory. Basically to the right on the "P" on that piece of plastic that the clear gear selection is shown in. Take out the plug (1/4-3/8") and just push a screwdriver in there. This will let the shifter release. Someone who has done this recently perhaps will add/correct.

A little power. A little messing with some vacuum and EGR lines. No bracket for the PS lines. That's it!!! Much more reliable engine. Reseal it, idlers, WP, timing belt, spark plugs, etc while it's out.

And way more reliable when you're done. NO HG or bearing issues - atleast they are very rare on 2.2's.