davebugs

I'm confused. 14" and 15" are same diameter? I'd assume you're talking about the outer tread diameter. That said I think they gotta be different. My limited knowledge is that the second number is the "aspect ratio". Basically with a 195/70 that the sidewall lenght is 70% of the 195 the tread width. If they started on different diameter rims the overall diameter would be different. I suspect the OP may be looking for that Miata tire calculator website to calculate the overall diameter of the tire and width.

STOP with the cam caps!!!! You gotta look around. The front ones get less torque. Take it from a fella that thought when the first bolt on the first cam cap in the front broke - that is was a fluke. Actually if you look at them the shaft of the front bolts are thinner. Don't remember the specs. But the ones closest the front get torqued less. I get get me a spiffy new set of the left handed drill bits and extractors. But I would have been happier just skipping that whole experience.

Actually the head bolts get dipped in, or liberally squirted with oil. Some will creak pretty good no matter what you do.

I loosen part of a turn, soak them more, tighten them that part of turn, continue. It's best if you can wire brush the other side of the threads. I used the undo, spray, tighten, spray,undo,spray... method last week on a 95 Legacy. Rad bolts were bad. Bolts were so rusty that the top ones for the headlights are rusted so bad you'd never get a socket on them. I figured I'd be putting those 2 top rad brackets back on with self tapper's. Patience and lube. Sure beats fixing more stuff.

Of all the correct information in this post, this is the funniest. And also correct!

You may wanna search around at tdiclub.com to see if anyone has done that conversion. There are some interesting conversions going on, including into Jeeps discussed over there.

I buy a Dayco. I have used their belts on a few non-interference engines for cheap folks with kids that are likely to wreck the car before the timing belt dies.

Here's what I do with the accessory belts. I get one 1/2 inch longer than called for on the Power Sterring side (hate taking out the bolts and "tilting" the PS pump to get that belt on often) and I get one 1/2 shorter on the alternator side. What is called for you have your tensioner almost the whole way tight before the belt gets tight. IIR jsut add 5 to the # of the PS belt, and subtract 5 from the alternator belt #. Your parts house should be able to help you with this.

Haven't heard from OP. When I reread this title. Wonder what he manes by "timing belt fixed". You'd think it would read something like "timing belt maintenance completed".

Great. A happy ending AND you posted your resolution.

There is a little black button. If you're lucky it's right behind the hood release inside. If you're unlucky it's a black button taped up (hidden - atleast originally) under the steering column. You can probably search for pics. It's a bit of a perverse situation - a Subaru alarm. You can typically still start and drive the car, the 4-ways just blink slowly. Eventually they will kill the battery. Grab a flashlight, and head to the drivers side floormat and look up and feel.

You've successfully set off the alarm. That's the slowly blinking 4-ways.

My first guess would be that they got one of the accessory belts too tight.

John, I've NEVER crossed the fuel lines. I've always done things like this. Partly because I seem to have a bad memory. Partly because I'm used to getting interrupted with car projects. Infact I've had the engine out of my 71 VW bus that has my lift tied up for over a year. Long ago I learned to take pics as I disconnect, tear down, etc. When digital cameras became affordable that has helped a great deal. Throw in a paint stick, I use nail polish to mark timing marks, and you're pretty much set. When doing a project that may get interrupted I'm one of those guys that bags and tags (writed with permanent marker) on ziploc bags bolts and such. Realizing that I often don't remember is why I do things like this. It also has the benefit of improving my odds of not shooting myself in the foot on simple stuff. Skip here helped me do my first Subaru engine R&R. He encouraged me to do it when I had no experience with Subaru's. I think I drove him a bit nuts with wanting to take pics, etc my first 2 times. Haven't needed to with a Suby since. But it definately helps improve my level of confidence and helps stop little things from being a diagnostic problem later.

First question - did you accidentally get the fuel lines on backwards? I always leave one hose on the intake, the other on the filter, to make sure I get the 2 big hoses back on correctly. Do you have fuel? When you crank and crank do you smell any gas?

Don't wanna clear the codes on a car I'm looking at. I may drive it tomorrow. So far I've made a lowball offer. All those codes sound like a fella could spend significant amount of time chasing them down. And parts could get expensive quick. Impreza's aren't worth all that much. And I haven't had time to do cars lately.

kits usually are about the same cost IIR. Just a different timing belt. I['m guessing around 125.00 for all idlers and generic timing belt. I always get accessory belts too. While they are off, why not replace them. Seals, Orings, etc and you're hopefully done for another 100k.

Looking at buying this car. 125k. Says timing belt was done. On 3rd clutch (wow). Some research shows the usual PITA P0420. Could be O2(s), cat(s), etc. The rest seem like IAC or Neutral safety switch, and then grasping at straws. Told him I'd give him a price in a few hours - I'll be tied up until then and largely off line. I did not drive the car yet. Seemed to start and idle fine. Only weird thing I noticed was that it almost seemed like the drivers side fan ran WHENEVER the heater fan was turned on at all. I made sure it wasn't on an AC setting. Don't think the car was really hot enough for the fan to be running due to that. Thoughts on this combination? Owner also stated that cruise no longer worked. I'm thinking NSS could be one of the potential causes of this.

A LOT of us get them from theimportexperts.com. GMB bearings. Some use their WP as well. They normally ship MitsubOshi timing belt - supposedly OEM. I usually buy Dayco (which they used to have and probably still do) and Now I believe them have Continental and another name brand as well. I got assessory belts as well. They were Continental. I wanna say one was 5 bucks and the other 6 bucks? Hard to beat kits for value really. I get OEM WP gasket, local sourced metal WP, and OEM crank/cam seals and you're good to go. I believe some have even used their seals. For the price of OEM I've never had a problem with an OEM so that's what I use. YMMV

IIR rotating it a bit helps. You just need to "finesse" it out.

Drain, then fill through the top radiator hose, reconnect it, then fill the radiator. Then start the car and continue. If I have a car that's a problem I often pull it up on rhino ramps to get a little elevation to the front.

I posted recently (like a week or so ago) about this. I jsut installed the "laser Platinum" second set in the GF's car. They are called double Platinum on the NGK website - which also calls for the wrong plug. Website calls for a 10, Dealer and old paper manual call for an 11 - which means wider electrode it seems. In that late model of a car I'd bet you want the "laser platinums" I know a 2006 calls for them. The regular old green writing BRK's I use up to 2001 or so. Unfortunately I have a gap in experience between 2001 and 2006. If you want the info on what I got just PM me. I have the documentaion on another computer and can look it up.

Bad burp job. Or you used generic head gaskets.

IIR the new parts are under 30 bucks. Common problem. Not hard to install.

The headlight lens kits I've used are actuall pretty impressive. They come with a sealer/clear paint/whatever. That's what makes the difference in my opinion. It helps make them very, very clear and helps stop them from getting crappy quickly. Getting crappy quickly happens if you jsut use buffing compound, fine wet sandpaper, etc. Since you never put a sealer coat on. But they will look better for a little while.