davebugs

Do you know where the reset button is? The little black button? Either mounted by the hood release - or taped up under the dash in a mess of wires and hard to find.

I've never had the alarm stop a car from starting that I know of. Are you sure they are connected? As in if you hit the reset bitton the car starts? Perhaps someone here has had the same issue and will chime in.

year, model? We're not that good at guessing. On the 95-99's it just causes the 4ways to blink slowly most of the time. I was always amazed that you could actually start the car and drive off after the alarm going off.

no. Personally I'd say definately no way.

I moght suggest Kerosene as a lube. Won't evaporate as quickly as most other lubes. I know glass shops use it to keep their glass cuters in as a lube. Then you can start a post on how to get rid of the Kerosene smell. Really Gary, never heard of tape and newspaper? This thread was my morning laugh!

Gary, I'm a little dense this morning. Don't know what you're talking about. In the sedan's IIR there is a metal gizmo sticking out that looks like what pretrudes from the hood or trunk for the seats to latch to. Is that what you're asking about? Unfortunately I don't have a car here to look at. But I've dis-assembled enough that I may have a thought after I understand what you're asking.

Now I see the new thread.

IIR at one time those FWD auto's for a 92 were kinda pricey. Don't know why. I've only really redone on earlier than a 94. But I had a 92 with a zillion miles and the body falling off and a Subaru fella gave me money and pulled the engine, and I got the car back so he could get the tranny.

When I did a lot of Suby's I actually pretty much ran Henderson's out of 2.2 engines for a year or so. Excellent small time operation that's been in business for years. Not the biggest, but my local favorite. They are my first call for all foreign parts. Excellent folks.

May I suggest that you update the CITY in your profile and put something useful in there. There are some good folks here. Often they'll offer to have a look as a second set of eyes and often experience with your issue.

Search "head gasket failure" and similar here. Doubt the tube is the problem.

My guess is that they FUBAR'd the auto tranny pump. Didn't get the torque converter seated correctly and "pulled it together" with the engine to trans bolts. If that's the case now you need a new tranny. Bummer.

I'm not a big fan of used struts either. Could be a lot of work, that possibly could need done again soon. Part of why I replace the mounts if they aren't perfect for a car I'm gonna sell. Most of the time I repalce them. Not very expensive.

Rear's don't go near as often as fronts. I'd pick up the hardware kit for the top (rubber piece, etc) called a strut mount kit while at the auto parts. Cheap, I'd replace them while you have access, and if you don't want to replace them I'd have them onhand anyways - you can always return them. This way if one is dried out, cracked, whatever you already have the new one in hand. Sometimes you gotta "finesse" them a bit to get the new ones in.

If you're wiling to remove the engine twice that doesn't look that bad - the HG's or rear main. I never replace the rear main. I always use anit-seize on everything anyways. Next removal will be easier since it'll have alreadey been remoed recently, the anti-seize and probably new hose clamps all the way around. That said for the 100 bucks or so in parts personally I'd still be doing them while it's already out. ALong with resealing the baffle plate.

I use a permanent market and LETTER the parts. A trick I learned long ago. I'm actually an old computer guy. When we'd run cables and gave them a number folks would try and read too much logic into the number. All I wanted was them to match both ends of the same cable - one at the computer and the other end wherever it was in the business. Folks would think for instance cable 1 would HAVE to go into slot 1 on the multiplexer in the back of the computer. In reality cable 1 had no meaning - just a way to identify both ends of the same cable. For instance I'd see systems someone else installed and the multiplexers used to be numbered 0-7 (for the 8 slots). Almost always slot 0 was free - because there was no cable labeled 0 !! Same with backup sets of media. So long ago I started to enploy lettering. For instance on this job one may want to relate the number to a particular cylinder - but there is more than one valve per cylinder. I use a sharpie and an old oil box for each side. I mark everythink including the cam caps. Don't forget markings on the heads will be removed if you have them sent out to be done. So scratch a legend on them somewhere before sending them out. The steam cleaning will remove the sharpie.

GG, I was waiting as well. I'm thinking the same as you. I'd put it this way. I wouldn't buy a new trans until AFTER I pulled things apart and had a look at all the moving parts. Clutch fork, TO bearing, clips, heck - even the slave cylinder. Trans failures are actually very rare in my exerience. ANd even then it's usually the diff it seems.

Like Mike said occasionally I sell one of these used. Not many seem to go bad really. Not hard to change out. I'd use the procedure for replacing the HVAC light bulbs if you need one. With the additional tip someone mentioned about unhooking the cable at the floor rather than at the back of the control unit.

Exactly what I meant. If the alternator is gone, the car resorts to the battery until it is exhausted. The thread was asking about bad alternator symptoms. Net effect is what I proposed was happenning to the OP. I just skipped an unneeded(obvious to me atleast) step in the explanation. We're on the same page.

You have a real delimma. Personally any time I have the engine out I do the HG's. OEM HG's are under 100 bucks. Throw in other seals, belts, etc it can add up. I'd atleast do the HG's and a new timing belt. Assuming you have a decent torque wrench to torque the heads and the cam caps. I'd probably install new VC gaskets while it was out along with resealing the baffle plate. I go on the premise that if i do the HG's idelrs, WP, baffle plate, etc that it won't need pulled for atleast another 100k. If you're mentally trying to get just another 50k the Subaru "Conditioner" MAY get you there. The good news (if there is any) is what's been stated. The SOHC 2.5's leak externally. Which means you can see the leak on the driveway and keep adding fluid for a long time potentially. It WON'T suddenly spike after a 30-45 minute drive like a DOHC 2.5.

A lot of times you'll get an erroneous ABS light and another seemingly unrelated idiot light(I forget wha tit is). If it dies, and you have a good battery wait an hour, start it up, and head to the nearest battery place. Your distance between when it craps out will keep getting shorter. Often you'll notice there is no high RPM's - almost like a fuel delivery problem. That's really the battery dying since that's what you're really running off of.

My DD is a diesel. I'm still amazed how major car companies can have "issues" with transmissions for Diesels due to the torque. The emissions part is no mystery, unreasonable reg's will do that. But I'm talking basic engineering stuff for the tranny's. My current diesel is just getting broken in at 200k. I'd love to have the option of replacing it with a proven diesel that is horizontally opposed and AWD.

I always replace the fuel filter. So I suppose while you didn't mention it specifically that you did check all 3 hoses up there? I'd check the most prone to leak fuel problem - the filler tube. Doubt it's swap realted since it took so long to be an issue. Just good old dry rot, a critter, or rust(filler tube).

Hose pliers. I have Sunnax(sp?) and I've seen them at Harbor Freight. A set of 3. I think the HF ones are best for this - less angle at the end where they are rounded. The LAST thing you wanna go is leave part of the boot over the plug in the hole. Dielectric grease for the plug top and new boot. Definately anti-seize on the threads of the plug. Usually swearing is involved. Removing the washed bottle sometimes helps. Another trick is to get a long (like 3') extension and keep the ratchet out of the engine bay - especially on the drivers side. The long extension and a universal work well. I also have a SK or KD plug socket with a swivel built in. But you'll need an assortment of extensions and stuff. I find my like 1" snap-on extension works good in one of the needed combinations. Good luck. Don't hurry.

I'd think abotu a quick sand. Another coat of color (guessing that color will bond to roughed up color better). Then clear. But I'm hardly a bidy guy. But that would solve the not getting the clear painted in 24 hours.