davebugs

I give him the benefit of the doubt. I figured he actually used the search function (a good thing) and found this thread. Then perhaps he recently did this successfully. Is the glass half full? Is the glass half empty? I prefer to see it as half full. But everyone can make their own judgement.

I think that's the theory. Actually I think it's all pretty forgiving until the clear coat goes on. Gotta be a reason the paint guys wanna use it rather than single stage. I get tired of them wanting to base/clear my antiques that certainly didn't come that way and never see the weather.

Ditto

I'd still reseal the baffle plate while I had access, even if you're skipping all the other engine stuff. Just takes basic tools (impact screw driver), cleaner, and ultra-grey. Yea the new ones are metal and rarely leak. But it's still buried and you'll literally be right there. GG and I were typing at the same time a few posts back. But essentially the same comments.

Yes - no rear main. I'd reseal the baffle plate. No new head bolts. Lube them well, but several will still creak a good bit. Look at the HG procedure. I'd say they aren't expensive. IIR like 80 bucks for OEM? But you'll need a decent torque wrench, usually a 12 point socket for the head bolts, etc. The torque procedure is a bit of a "mexican hat dance" with many steps. First with specific torque's then with portions of a turn in specific orders. We're assuming that the HG's have never been done and that you're likely to keep the car a while. I know folsk who will never reuse a timing belt after it's been in service.

In my opinion if you'd do it now the heads won't need anything done. Just clean up the surfaces on the heads and the block. I'd do the crank/cam seals while I was at it (wasn't mentioned with the WP, idlers, etc). Go OEM only. Even though it's metal I'd probably reseal the baffle plate. I'd even put fresh plugs in it while it's out. CHeck the VC gaskets, etc.

Kinda common - more common than it should be. Someone here told me that NAPA has them. And it was cheaper than the dealer kit (or wherver I could get a kit with glue and such). Anyways NAPA is the place to go. I do 95-99's but I'd expect the 94 to be the same.

It that little bit of creaking annoys you may I suggest you prepare yourself if you ever do a head gasket job. No matter how much lube, they always creak a lot.

Again if you search around here - or just pay attention to posts you'll see that the 2.5 isn't as sturdy as the 2.2. Yes if you do the head gasket in time before the rod bearings are effected by getting overheated, and often need to ignore harmless but somewhat noisy piston slap the 2.5 is good. Mind you it's not really that the 2.5's are bad, and really most of their issues are HG related - or atleast start w/HG issues, but the 2.2 is somewhat bullet proof. BTW I have a lift, engine hoist, tranny jack, etc. and still as stated always pull the engine to look it over, reseal it, etc.

Keep the 2.2

I"m always a bit paranoid and try and use the trim tool that goes around the plastic plugs to remove them when possible. Usually minimizes pulling htem out of the cardboard on the panel and possible screwing it up. Often you'll screw up one or more of the plastic clips - and/or someone in there before you will have. I've never had any luck finding them at a parts store. So I save some when I scrap a car. Usually the ones for the tailgate cover are butchered the worst. If you take time with the drivers door you should be o.k. - or close enough to o.k. not to worry about it. You can always go to the local JY and pull a panel there - where it doesn't matter. You may even get a few clips to have "just incase".

Have a new piece welded in or try the JB weld, or metal and hose clamps with some muffler patch stuff. FYI the exhaust has a pretty hard mount probably just before this piece you speak of (hard to tell without a diagram) and a rubber mount probably shortly after your hole, and another rubber mount at the rear. The possibilities of having it hit the floor are extremely remote based on what you've stated. Now if the rubber band kinda looking part of the mount or either stud (on the exhaust or body) is missing there might be a possibility.

I believe I have a complete intake off a 2001 2.5 without parts missing. Too bad you're not closer.

NO thread lock on the stuff with the cams. Anti-seize on the exhaust studs/nuts(whatever was removed).

Welcome to USMB. I've never had your exact issue. I have had bad crank sensor failure cause intermittent starting issue though. Try and see if you have spark when this happens. I"m expecting not, and don't know how much that'll help, but it's a start. The crank sensor, ignitor, coil pack, or computer couls all cause no spark. Miles? Car? COil pack brand? Spark plug wire brand? Spark plug brand? Miles since last tuneup?

Engine comes out the top. Sorry for the confusion. Not a bad job really.

I definately second the yank of the engine. I always do it that way. With the extra difficulties yo're having it's really the only choice to me. Yue need to have the engine/heads out where you can see them, get ot multiple angles, etc.

Welcome. Search is your friend. Often discussed. Some drop the tranny. I ALWAYS drop the engine. I think it's simpler and usually do all the other major maintenance at the same time. HG's, crank and cam seals, reseal baffle plate, etc. There was a thread here yesterday/today about someone doing this exact job on a 99. If you search and read you'll see what most folks do. I happen to ge thte new clips from the dealer and a Valeo kit with only japanese and american parts.. I always get the pressure plate resurfaced - but that's me. ALWAYS reseal the baffle plate given the opportunity. Stay away from the rear main seal (don't replace it). My opinions. Search, read, develop your own opinions. Folks here are willing to share. They do prefer that a little research has been done before hand.

Those bolt extractor sets work good. Some of them a tap of the hammer to start them to "set" is nice. I have the originals called "Xtractors". I also own the Sears knock offs. Often you can buy the little and slightly larger sets of the Sears ones pretty cheap and about half the price of it you get the whole set at one time. Everyone makes these now. All the major tool manufacturers. A must have in my opinion. Add: If you're removing the head and lacking metric stuff you'll be running back for that 12 point socket for the head bolts next. I bought a 1/2 deep drive one specifically for this job and my 1/2 torque wrench.

I clean the threads after the nut. Then I get about 50/50 nuts versus studs. I don't care I just mark them so I know where they go back and am liberal with the anti-seize. BTW those nuts are also what's used on the engine mounts and exhaust. And they are coated and kinda pricey for just a nut. Therefore I have some new ones on hand and a drawer full of nuts and studs from cars I've scrapped. I usually break them loose with a long snap-on breaker bar. Then run them off with the IR impact. Don't know if hitting them with the serious IR 1/2 Impact first may be the way to go or not. I seem to like to "feel" bolts when they snap, rather than just wondering what happened with a gun. Then again I guess the repair is the same. Just don't know which way increases the odds of not breaking the bolt.

How many miles have you put on it? MMO often helps make them quiet - I just change oil shortly thereafter. Also are you SURE there wasn't a bunch of crap in the exhaust from the old engine? Hate to see you chasing a problem that doesn't exist. They can make lots of noise for quite a while. I heat cycle them twice to check the coolant (you know how tempermental the 2.5's are). Then take for a SPIRITED drive after it warms up for a few minutes. If that doesn't help I add MMO and do it again. Usually that does it.

Wow. Someone clueless must have been in there before. Those don't get torqued all that tight. You may want to shop for new heads. By the time you have them do the "normal" head work and possible remove the broken off bolts it may be easier. Since I'd be concerned about what else may have been done out of spec. Good luck. I've had to remove the front bolts after I snapped them off using the wrong torque on re-assembly. It may be difficult to extract your broken bolts using standard methods available in your garage. Then again I'm not a machinest.

PP = pressure plate. Clean the baffle plate and matching surface with carb/brake clean or similar. Small bead of Ultra Grey to reseal it. Those clips I get at the dealer.

I always replace those clips. Cheap insurance. I almost always replace the pilot bearing and often throwout bearing. The clutch and PP are up to you. I'd certainly look over the flywheel and atleast buff it up a little bit. And reseal the baffle plate on the rear of the engine while you have access.

Heat is your friend on those exhaust bolts. Never stripped one. Have broken a few off though. Make sure to use a wire brush to clean the threads off before you try and remove the nut. Sometimes the nut breaks loose than hits all the crap in the crappy threads then it has problems. As has already been stated all gaskets dry. Hope you're resealing the baffle plate while it's out with the Ultra Grey. If you're doing the oil pump it gets Ultra Grey too.