davebugs

Dot(crank) and dashes (cam pulleys) ignore all else. Actually the splined piece that goes over the crank does have a hash mark at the back to line up with the mark jsut below the crank sensor. Following the arrows will get you in trouble.

I second the OEM Metal WP gasket and only ultra-grey for oil pan, baffle plate, oil pump. I also ALWAYS do oil pump O-ring, crank and cam seals - again all OEM. If you're working on an engine and the seals are black always replace them. If they are brown it's a tougher decision - that means they are OEM. IIR they each are around 8 bucks and are accessable when doing hte job you're doing so why not do them? Again while I'm in that deep I always replace all crank/cam seals. I use PVC pipe to set them. A note on the the oil pan and oil pump. If you go to a parts store they sell Fel-Pro or similar from a GASKET company. From the factory these things don't take gaskets just ultra-grey or anerobic(sp?). But if you ask for a gasket at a place that sells gaskets you'll come home with a gasket. I think Ultra Grey does better. You'll need Ultra Grey for the front cam caps in the corners anyways if you tear down the heads to have them checked. I always get the radiator flushed and pressure checked because by the time I get the car lots of "miracle cures" have already been tried. For VC gaskets I usually use Fel-Pro. Exhaust is a todd up but OEM seem thicker and are the same price as Fel-Pro but often you can re-use the old ones. Intake gaskets don't matter to me.

If you're the grammar police - you'll be busy around here... Enjoy yourself. Some of us like to add value and help folks. Other like to nit pick. (hey - I probably mis-spelled knit pick!!) Which am I? Which are you? Glad I'm me.

Simplify your life. OEM head gaskets. Basically same price as aftermarkets and NO issues. Welcome aboard to the USMB. Search around here a bit. Basically folks recommend OEM HG's and aftermarket idler sets. OEM plug wires, NGK plugs, OEM thermostat's.

I've usually found that where the pads sat is hard to do by hand well enough. If the rust got deep enough they will never really get totally smooth and you'll notice it a little when driving. If I have a car set for a year I plan on new rotors/pads and I closely check the brake lines (living in the rust belt and car is often parked in grass).

Yep. One of those little funnels with a long shaft for like a buck at the auto parts (come in maybe 4-6 colors) usually fit in there nice for me.

Curious to the resolution. Please post ultimate fix when found.

Actually now that I think about it I tried to reuse the belt off the first engine which was a 99 Forester. Than it wouldn't work on the 2000 SOHC from a Legacy.

I used to do enough of them that I'd like to think I'd have noticed that. But perhaps I didn't.

I've had issues with a 99 Forester. Took 3 engines to get a good one. A 99 forester SOHC was bad, a 2000 Legacy SOHC, also bad, finally a 2001 Legacy SOHC. If you think the timing belt you have for the 99 is impossible to install on the Legacy engine this is exactly what happened to me - and they call for a different timing belt. IIR the one for the 99 SOHC is smaller and when I couldn't get it on I called the parts store and the Legacy engine actually took a different belt. I swapped intakes, for some reason I believe motor mounts, etc.

It's mounted on a plate basically on the firewall in the center behind the throttle body. Black, held on with 2 screws. You can follow the wireing from the coil pack to it.

Yep

Did you replace those 2 little clips when you did the clutch kit? Those of the slave are usually what it ends up being for me. I always replace the clips when doing a clutch. Are we supposed to guess at the miles, and miles on this clutch? Folks here are good, but not that good.

You can definately get the PCI kits without the belts. But often it's cheaper if you get the entire kit and throw away the belt. They are actully fairly priced on the new style tensioners as well. I did install one of their MitsubOshi belts a few years ago on a 95 2.2 swap with the future owner's knowledge. As far as I know it's o.k. But being the paranoid sort I have a few of them here because I wouldn't risk one on an interference engine.

Exactly. It could have been on the shelf to begin with for years before he bought it. It's still double aged. At the parts store and his shelf. It's just playing the odds. And even though a simple job. Better when it's planned and only done one time - atleast to me. We're talking what - the cost of a few fancy cups of coffee or happy meals? If it were a beater for me to run locally I think I'd still spring for the new belt.

I get their kits all the time. Then I source a Dayco belt locally. But the belts seem decent enough - especially for non interference. I get the belt locally for the smae price and am also picking up a WP, plugs, accessory belts, etc.

For the price I'd just buy a new one. Even if you do the work yourself (possibly twice) the inconvenience of possibly having the car die on the road, getting it home, not being able to plan when that will happen, just isn't worth what 20-30 bucks? Even if you think you work cheap. Possibly doing something twice and possibly spending that money anyways doesn't make sense to me at all. If you're married imagine the abuse. "You just fixed this car and now it's broken" or similar statements. It'd be worth more money than the belt to not have to hear that replay often. YMMV. I'd pitch it.

o.k. Don't laugh. I've seen more than one vehicle locally over the years painted with latex house paint and a roller. Not proud that I've seen it. Kinda one of those things you can't "unsee". Gotta be cheap, and a large selection of colors and a few "sheens". Heck you can get a gallon of mistint for what - 5 bucks? Can't get cheaper than that.

Sounds like an axle nut on my old VW bugs. 6' to 8' cheater bar and stand and bounce on it. A few years ago we broke a 3/4 snap-on breaker bar doing a bug axle nut. Snap-on guy couldn't believe it. He's paranoid of stripping it out. He said he did the 174 and it seemed to tighten up. He was afraid to go any further. Thanks for the quick reply Tom.

I see 145 in thread. My buddy says his book says 174 for a 2000 year model. He also remembers stripping one when he worked for a used car dealer and didn't really "enjoy the experience". Anyone offhand know what it is?

PS leak is common. PS fluid is red. Oil is brown.

I use PVC fitting all the time. And OEM seals. Never had a problem. I could just be lucky. But I'd suspect the seal first, and a score second. You can look for a score when you install the OEM seal.

No However anytime I have an engine "open" at all to the outside world I change the oil shortly after that. Liek I'll start it to look for leaks, let it warm up and change the oil. But I'm more paranoid than most folks (I prefer to think of it as thorough).

OEM seal? What did you install it with?

You might very carefully spray the tensioner bolt NOW, and agin in the morning. The bolt is metal and the other piece is aluminum - and they don't play well together. Make SURE you undo the jamb nut before undoing the tightening bolt. Or you'll strip the aluminum dog (don't know what to call it - and it's a dealer item - and costs more than it should) when you loosen the adjustiing screw. I forget - someone will know. Space is limited for the jamb nut. It helps to have an offset 12mm? for the jamb nut that tightens the adjuster. The short bolt I'm talking about is really in the center of the pulley. As pointed out definately get a new belt.