davebugs

The Forester is basically an overgrowm Impreza rather than a Legacy. That said there are still a lot of common parts. Engines are interchangable, rear stubs, etc. Biggest obvious thing under the hood is simple. It has an Impreza rediator (cap on passenger side).

I've redone and sold a decent amount of Subaru's mostly 95-99. The only one that was very unpleasant was a 99 Forester - first year for the 2.5 SOHC. 2 replacement engines later (including a total of 4 engine pulls, several sets of head gaskets, seals, etc. Considering how many Outbacks and Legacy's I've done, less Imprezaa's and maybe a handful fof Foresters. The Foresters ave always turned out to be the biggest problems themselves, parts, etc. Their owners seem to be the most difficult to deal with for some reason as well. Doesn't seem to be the market for the Foresters for me. And that's fine with me based on my experiences with them.

oil. I assume that you are aware that the PS pump leaking is a common problem. Stick your finger into the liquid. Green - coolant (and I can't believe that's what it is if it's the sensor I'm thinking), brown/black oil (most likely if it's the sensor, red or redish black it's power steering fluid (ATF).

If it's directly above the crank, it's the crank sensor. The only thing that comes to mind with the description that you gave.

What you have and olnick added. Only other thing that comes to mind is if you'll pulling it to reseal the baffle plate. I do it at any opportunity. I'm assuming new fluids(oil, coolant) and filters(oil, air, fuel). Fuel filters never seem to get changed much, so when doing the timing belt that's when I do them.

I work on a lot of SUbaru's and drive a VW TDI (diesel) as my daily driver. I'd LOVE to see a Subaru diesel. Neither VW or Audi has a 4 motion/AWD in a diesel without getting a SUV. I don't want a SUV for daily driving. A Subaru diesel would be perfect. I gotta believe there is a market for a decent priced, simple AWD diesel car. Then the possible disucssions about probably only coming in automatics can be the topic of dicussion. Man, I hope we get to the point about arguing over tranny's because a Diesel Subaru is coming.

When you pull the engine reseal the real baffle plate or "oil seperator" plate. I recommend NOT replacing the rear main seal.

Make sure the crank mark is set. Then you should't hurt the cams on either head by turning it. Yes the drivers side is under load. I have clamps that look like pliers - 3 of them. One goes on the splined pulley on the crank to hold the belt aligned there, the other 2 on the cam sprockets with the belt aligned on those sprockets. Helps to get the belt on and keep things aligned. This way you can install the belt WITHOUT the drivers side cam right at the top where it wants to roll on you since you've "pinched" the belt to the cam sprocket. Often I leave off the bottom idler until I et the belt on. DOTS AND DASHES!!!! Not arrows, etc or you'll screw yourself. Poke around here. Lots of good writeups and links. Gotta run.

Welcome to the USMB. There are 2 sensors for coolant (I know because I accidentally left one unplugged one time). The one I had forgotten was a spade terminal located under the #3 intake. Kinda hard to see. I believe it was for the gauge but could be mistaken. SOmeone here will know where the other one is and for sure which one does what. IAC - I've only ever had troubles with one and I believe I just swapped it out. So I'm actually of little help.

Yep. 2 minor things come to mind. I believe the lifters are different (and that the 96 wants premium gas) but even then if you swap the whole engine you're o.k. Depending on when the 98 was built the EVAP charcoal canister may be in the rear by the filler tube, and it's in the front on the 96. Catalytic converter/O2 sensor layout may be slightly different. Also I believe sometime in 98 they changed the headlight/turn signal lense setup. But really they are the same car. Very minor tweaks from 95 to 99 really.

If you don't hear from him by end of tomorrow PM me and I'll give you some contact info that I have for Tom. He's in Fleetwood, PA 19522 - but he definately travels.

Welcome. Don't know where you're really located - or the car is located. But in that end of PA PM subaru360 on here. I'm unsure how many other folks cars he works on. I do know he buys them and fixes them. He comes to mind. There may be others.

I ALWAYS replace the clips. Infact I just picked up a set for a local garage that did a clutch job and now has troubles. Not positive they are the problem in this case but I have seen them be the problem, along with a cracked fork. I'd get new clips at the dealer (like 5 bucks) and inspect the clutch fork closely. No sense in needing to possibly repull the engine/trans for a couple of bucks in parts and forgetting to examine the fork.

An update to this. My ex girl friends car is due for the timing belt so it'll get new plugs, idlers, accessory belts, etc. The water Pumps are double the cost of the SOHC's so it'll stay on this one - she's tight on cash, the tensioner will be re-used as well. Anyways based on my notes I installed NGK FR5AP-11's last time. The NGK site calls for FR5AP-10's and the website says the factory gap is .39 and my notes indicate .44. Haven't checked them yet but typically NGK's are good to go out of the box. A little apprehensive about gaping an exotic plug. But the real reason I'm powsting here is that my local parts place has an old NGK book. It states that the -11 means wider electrode (or tip - I forget). Which may be sort of the answer since they aren't grooved like the cheapies I use on the 95-99's. So while I haven't checked the gap, or decided whether to gap them if they are .39 and should be .44 atleast the -11 is somewhat explained if someone searches for this in the future. One further note. What are listed as "double platinums" on the NGK site actually say "laser platinum" on the box. They are what came out from the factory last time and what I installed at 51k now the car is pushing 100k. The original plugs looked good to the naked eye but had started to get tight due to galling(sp?). I anti-seized and dielectric greased them so we'll see how they are this time. I'm thinking that if the factory would have used anti-seize they may have lasted 100k. I'm thinking the recommended replacement frequency had more to do with the ability to remove the plugs than wear - YMMV. For science if anyone wants one to put under a microscope or anything PM me because I'll try and save the old ones for a while. It may be valuable research for other members to help them make replacement frequency decisions.

Just ordered 2 timing sets. One for a Subaru, the other my first try from these folks for a 2003 VW 2.0.

It'll SUCK. I've had to follow folks who used crap like this before. Can't swear it was Indian Head but how many other products like that are there? OEM, dry, done. Another sidebar discussion. Just like the only rear main seals I've ever needed to replace had already been replaced. The only leaking waterpumps have always been the gasket, and always cardboard or permatex, or Indian Head - never OEM. Something else to think about. Did I mention - just get the OEM gasket?

I've installed many of their idler sets. I usually buy a Dayco belt local, and the WP is the same local where I'm getting plugs, accessory belts, etc so I just get them there. I did install one of their MitshbOshi belts on a 95 2.2 a few years ago and haven't heard anything back. I know that I've probbaly installed atleast 5 sets of their idlers that have gone another 100k because the folks asked me to do the next timing belt job and I don't work on other folks cars. Still a better gamble than letting OEM's go that long, and much more affordable than dealer. An excellent compromise.

OEM is rubber coated metal. They all look a little warped, don't worry. Install dry.

What are you looking for in Indiana? Depending on what you need I can suggest who may have what you're looking for. Skip - are you currently local?

I get an OEM WP gasket. Worth the money. I have a collection of the cardboard ones that come with the pumps that have never been used.

Not difficult. I've never even used a steering wheel puller - but getting a loaner one may not be a bad idea. I have a few around, and one in a 97 Outback parts car. I've had to pay up tp 100 (for an Impreza). But usually sell them for 30 + shipping and paypal. I'd imagine the 97 and 98 were the same - but I can't confirm. You may be able to online somewhere. Mine is known good - I drove the car home using cruise, no ABS light on.

One is behind a little hunk of metal behind the cam seal on the drivers side front. The aluminum piece that holds the cam sensor comes off, the O ring is behind it. Pass side is in the BACK. 2 bolts hold the plate in place - kinda looks like a boomerang. The old one will be hard, very hard. This "cover" can take some "finesse" to get back in.

I've heard that you can spend some quality time under the dash (after removing the panel under the steering column. Supposedly you can take out the security box and match up the connectors and the world becomes a happy place. My guess would one extra connector left. Never done it. But if you think about it I'd bet the wireing is the same whether the car has an alarm or not. Often it seems they were added by the dealer. For instance a lot of them don't have the little red blinking light on the dash. Again perhaps someone else will chime in.

re-read. By the hood release by the door opening. If it's not there it's taped up to wires under the sterring column and you really have to go on a search mission usually. Either way grab a light, put your but on the ground or kneal(sm?) down and look.

It resets the alarm. The on eby the hood release is easy to find - grab a light and look. The one under the stering column can be a real PITA to find. It also is black and taped up and hidden in wires. I'm sure there are pics somewhere here of the buttons. Depends how/where the alarm was installed apparently.