davebugs

My guys sawzall off the tubing on the car back to where it's sturdy. Measure, cut a new pipe, often need to expand the ends a little to slip over the existing pipe. Then weld it up. They leave all thehangers connected when they weld it to keep it naturally aligned. Takes them less than 1/2 hour usually. IIR the new piece is 8-10" max. It's been a while so I forget. Varies with rust situation, year of car (distance before the cat IIR can vary a little).

On MKIII VW"s this is often a problem. I usually clean with product of your choice. Then wipe both sides down with dry gas (IPA). Then the 3M double face tape. I prefer not to use glues for this trim stuff. I'm just simply not neat enough. I'd imagine they would work better. But I know I'd make a mess of it.

The kits I've used have basically a clear coat that comes on little wipes. The sanding/buffing I think we could all come up with ways to do. But thic clear sealer which stops them from getting bad again quickly is the ingredient I can't figure out how to source by itself.

10$ cats? Hang onto them. Don't know what they are now worth. Haven't been playing with cars lately but I've got a dozen or so to scrap probably this fall before the holidays when they have a tendency to pay less because they figure folks are selling all they can to get cash for the holidays. As GG said (and I believe I posted last night in another thread) I get that mess with the flanges by the second cat welded all the time at a local exhaust shop. Easiest, cheapest in the long run and a more durable, long lasting solution. They basically cut out the flanges (or what's left of them) and place a sleeve over the ends and weld it up. Seriousely no matter how tight you are this just isn't a place to try and do it yourself to save a few bucks.

I get them resurfaced locally. A lot of folks just buff them up with a scotch brite pad on an air drill basically.

Try an exhaust shop for that short piece of pipe. I gave up on fixing them years ago. By the time you get 2 bolt kits to try and replace the flange, and the donut gasket. Swear a bunch, end up with than a less than a bullet proof repair. It's easier and more cost effective to have a shop do it. My local shop charges me 40.00 to replace this piece. And as has been pointed out I have them do a lot of these, so you may need to spend a few more bucks. But it's one of those things better to be done by someone with the correct parts, tools, and know how. More efficient and cost effective in my opinion.

Please update your profile to say Danville, PA so we can tell in the future. Members have been known to stop in to be a second set of eyes and offer a second opinion to other members. In my experience a Knock sensor causes performance to suck but not pinging - perhaps I've just been lucky. And it causes a CEL. My daily driver is a diesel and when I'm driving something gas I'm towing something so it's hard for me to tell when our gas hits the official "crappy" stage. I didn't even get any antiques out this year to see how it's effecting they but I run a cocktail or lead substitute(which is a salt I believe) and Sta-bil. Please report back with a solution. I think the gas may get a little "better/less crappy" about the end of this month IIR.

I have success with Seafoam for O2 sensors and cats. Usually Lucas Fuel Injection cleaner does well for me in the fuel. I buy it by the gallon and run it in all my gas vehicles. Definately try a different station for fuel though -a different brand.

Probably the crappy Ethanol gas and nothing more. Like here the gas gets worse in the summer trying to improve the ozone or something. Result is the gas is crap. Really kills small engine stuff (chain saws, weed eaters, somewhat lawn mowers). Not only is Ethanol crap, and "corn based Ethanol" specifically pandered to last election instead of Ethanol made from biomass waste but it ruins the pumps at the gas station and they don't care much about our cars because they have deemed it "good for us". I laughed when they were saying it took 8k to retrofit pumps at the gas station because Ethanol eats them up internally. The interviewer asked what it did to our cars then. The fella being interviewed said the new cars can handle it. The interviewer asked how many people drive new cars? The question was never really answered. Ethanol draws WATER. Water in all phases of a fuel system does bad things. Heck - Ethanol can't even be put through a pipeline because it eats up the pipes! The current pres PANDERED to Iowa with the "corn based Ethanol" rather than jsut Ethanol. A coincidence they are early in the primary process I'm sure. So the do gooders are screwing us again. Try different fuel. In the fall the blend gets a little better. They want to INCREASE the Ethanol blends in our gasoline - the Ethannol producers are heavy political contributors. You can research on your own why we're forced into Ethanol. A product that takes more energy to produce than it generates and isn't profitable on it's own. The important thing is it's screwing up OUR stuff. Virtually anything with a gasoline engine. I have antique cars - carbed and fuel injected. Ethanol is evil - although good intentioned I'm sure. Like a lot of gov't mandates. Not a chemist, not a corn farmer, didn't vote fo rthe Bozo's currently running the country. I do however have a dozen cars of my own, work on other cars, and have a small army of small, 2 and 4 cycle powered things. BTW 2 cycle is evil and they are phasing them out as well. Bottom line is probably crappy gas due to politics more than science.

I have 6 still (I believe) all off 96 & 97 Legacy 2.2's(single port) and a few from 2.5's around (dual port). I'm in 15613. I sell them for 50.00 plus (if they aren't picked up). Have then hanging in the rafters in the garage.

I'll send you the info on someone in Bedford that does lots of Suby's. Last time I tried you couldn't get PM's. If you're interested PM me and I'll reply w/contact info for someone in Bedford. I've purchased parts from him in the past. Seems to have a good Subaru business and know how on HG's and 2.2 swaps.

Left me in a bit of a jaqmb but they were good about taking it back. Next time I have a need I'll probably check with them along with others.

FYI the only new rad I've ever bought for a Legacy came from there and was wrong. I needed the weird, expensive one. Had to pull one from a running parts car. They were good about taking the wrong one back, but I was still kinda screwed for the car I was working one. I couldn't see how to make the "normal" radiotor's bottom pegs to work where they fit into the rad support.

Typically when those TB's break nothing else gets hurt. Probably TB, idlers, WP, some seals and some labor and you're ready.

Start with the year so you know if it's interference or not.

I've been bitten by this. I think it's 97's that have the different rad, just like the starter. Has to do with the bottom 2 mounting pegs, perhaps more differences.

I've always used the importexperts w/no issues.

I keep the rear canister. I also believe a T is needed on the intake IIR to tap into the rubber lines. Been a while since I did a swap. But I always leave/use the original canister and play with the plumbing to get it to work.

I think folks here are thinking it's all too common when the last person to do a timing belt or WP job is clueless about how tight the nut on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer gets torqued. That's why the questions and requests for pics. Not so much rare, as tragic due to ignorance.

On my VW diesel it calls for H rated. I put T's on one time. Squealed, washed out, etc. I do see triple digits but never over 125 or so. I'm cruising on an interstate for long stretches at high speeds. The tires would squeal on on/off ramps and locally when cornering. Wore faster too. Yes I checked the pressures, rotated, etc. When I was considering the T's the fella at the tire shop recommended NOT going down to T's if you were used to the handling of the H's even if not doing high speeds. I only tried one set of T's so it could have just been that particular brand/model of tire. The snow tires I get are T rated. On a Suby I don't think the rating matters, you won't be going fast enough. And worst case they may make more noise or wear faster.

I don't believe that's an OEM seal. All the ones I have seen (or purchased at the dealer) are the Brownish like the crank and cam and not Black. Did OEM change or isn't that OEM?

Unwise to try that swap. Wireing/sensors/controls would be the issue. I believe it'll bolt right up. But when you want to start to plug stuff in it's gonna get very ugly very quickly.

Do a little searching on the rear main seal around here. Most folks, including myself recommend NOT replacing it. Lets put it this way. I've probably done close to 100 reseal jobs on 2.2 and 2.5's. The only 2 that I had to replace the rear main is because someone had replaced them before. Typically a tranny shop. The baffle plate is what leaks and folks think it's the rear main. Yea - I know the rear main may require pulling the engine (or tranny) again but it's one of those rare instances where it's usually better left alone. The "I'll do it while I'm in there" can often bite you with this one. That said the 2 I did have to install I used PVC to set and didn't leak. But seriousely do some searching around here and develop your own opinion on the rear main. Good luck. Search for "skipnospam" has one of my favorite writeups. Get a 14mm Swivel socket for especially the drivers lower nut. And IIR a 12mm swivel socket or offset box for the flex plate bolts. Other than that read up on making sure the torque converter is seated properly before re-installing the engine. On the rad flush. I prefer to support the local tradesman (who are a vanishing breed). He charges me 20 bucks for a flush and pressure check. And he's on my way to the shop that does my heads. I'd guess he does a better job that I could. Then again if you'd do a flush with the rad in the car it might catch some crap in the heater core as well. Also read up on "burping" the 2.5. Can be a bit moody and there are a few tricks. Have fun. Not really a difficult job. Oh yea - read up on making SURE you get the harmonic balancer/crank pulley TIGHT.

I use the Dayco belts but use the marks on the engine. First time was frustrating with the drivers side being under load. That's when I started using the plier type clamps to hold the belt to the cam and crank sprockets so the belt doesn't jump.

Chad, It's you car. Do you really wanna risk those idlers (especially the splined one by the WP) to go over a quarter million miles without a failure? I don't. And they are very easy access when doing a TB job. The Ebay ones are reasonably priced. Hope you make the next 100k. If not it's really not much money saved (or agrivation).