davebugs

I've had this happen with a 2.2 swap and it seemed to be due to a bad crank sensor. But I don't think it would run if push started. So perhaps that isn't it. You have checked the wireing to all the key sensors? You are aware most auto parts chains will read the code for free? You are aware that an ODB2 reader to buy is only 50 bucks? And welcome to the board! Please update your location so that it displays. Perhaps you're close to a member. Often members here are willing to assist. But we're not so good at guessing where folks are located.

I believe I save PS pump bolts for this. My memory isn't so great but I remember on each car dis-assembly I get 3 to put in the tray to use rotors. They look like the PS pump bolts(the 3 from the front) and there are 3 of them. They even have a little section that isn't threaded at the end. Eventually they mushroom.

I do them to flip them as well - and not for others. Infact that's a line I still choose not to cross. Basically I figure 1k to either "redo" the 2.5 or swap in a 2.2. Seals, 2.5 HG's, idlers, belts, WP, fluids and filters, spark plugs, reseal baffle plate, ets. The oil pan, clutch, flywheel resurface, heads machined would be on top of that. Breaks down to a long day. Of for me actually 2 partial days. Because I drop the rediator (on a 2.5) to be flushed/tested on the way to drop off the heads by mid afternoon. Them mid morning the next day I make the same look and pick the parts up. I wouldn't do it for anyone(a customer) at virtually any price though.

Does pretty good in the laundry for those same things. I used to sell Gyro's and that grease is tough. Dawn seemed to do the best on jeans and such that had Gyro grease on them. Like Tom I often use ATF, WD40, PB Blaster, etc. especially for thick stuff on my hands, etc. Then ZEP's Cherry Bomb. But for a lot of stuff Dawn can't be beat.

Poke around here. Some folks had links to download the FSM. I used to but they may have gotten away in a recent laptop incident. That is definately better and potentially free.

Looks pretty unique!

Cam seizure is what I was referring to in post #2. Other than that is sems to usually be an idler or the WP as has been pointed out. Every now and then a tensioner - especially the new style it seems. I did sell one member here a plastic cam sprocket and he thought that was his only problem. I doubted it was and tried to explain why. Wish I could remember who it was and how they made out.

Check for spark? You're still running the same ignitor.

I believe there is a gasket. Been a year since I used it.

My Motive cap (Subaru specific) has been working fine. Although I've only used it 3-4 times. Now the kinda "universal" ones for the GM rectangular ones that the OEM cover just clips on. Well, what a mess. Chains and all. I've tried to use it twice and gave up both times. But the screw on for Subaru and VW have been great.

Pic please

Worth a try - but not high odds. It is interference. And usually something causes enough resistance for the cam sprocket to break so it's more than replacing the cam sprocket to begin with before worrying about the damage caused AFTER is decintegrated. Hopefully others will chime in.

Off the top of my head the 98 will want the ER plumbing. The hard metal line on the back of the engine. But my memory isn't the greatest.

If you're talking about the skinny Oring on the back of the passenger side head on a 2.2 a comment or two. The machine fit is CLOSE. They can be a bit of a pain to "walk back in". I'm usually doing it with the engine on a stand. I use assembly lube and after I get it started I usually use the 2 bots to "walk it in". Getting it "walked out" you just need to take your time.

Don't know anything about it. Listed as a 87 Subaru Brat Truck. Public auction. PM for link. Auction is 11am tuesday, preview (limited no driving - just start it up if possible) starts at 9:30.

Usually the cats seem pretty interchangable. Often the O2 sensors are not it seems. But I have no chart or anything to point to.

Hoe was mandatory. Hoe and front loader. 4x4, locking diff, etc. 450 hours now. Basically made crates for the car hauler so it didn't fall into the middle. Friends have pointed out more of my redneck qualities with my Kubota on the modified trailer. Hey, whatever it takes. Plan is to keep it until I'm done with this foreclosed house, another day in the mountains with it, and landscape around the pole building (finally) then sell it. Hopefully in the fall, or keep until spring when it may be more valuable. We'll see. I'm outta room, but nice to have around. I just hope to get all my work done with it then have no need for it. That's why I bought used. They are kinda hard to find decent used ones. Still wasn't cheap 6 years old w/424 hours on it. But the offer stands for the junk block. I think I've thrown out all my TC's.

No idea. But the world is littered with 2.5 blocks w/bad bearings. Why play with this particular one? I mean we all like a challange, but..... If you're up for a drive I can probably get you a long block with bad bearings (really bad but still ran a little) that I have stolen throttle body, sensors, etc from. A 97 w/180k. BTW I bought a gently used Kubota BX23. Everyone needs a little hoe! Small but effective if I take my time. Sure beats the method I was using prior to getting the machine. Haven't done any car "work" with it yet.

In regards to your question to a posting of mine in this thread you've probably turned up the info in a search by now. The main reason a 95 2.2 is "preferred" is because you can use the Y-pipe off your 2.5, and it's also non-interference. 96-99 are SINGLE PORT exhaust so if you swap in one of them you need it's matching Y-pipe. JY's often consider Impreza and Legacy engines to be different. Impreza's are cheaper. Either will work when swapping in for a 2.5. Common issuea are always vacuum lines (and sometimes EVAP lines) and breather hoses.

I'd get a 2.2. Or PM me about a 2.2 (I have 3 here) that I've heard run. Or I have a running 2.5 in a 97 OBW that the HGs must have been done in but has some rod knock. Don't know which Hazleton you're in - there are several in PA I believe. If you're out by Philly a trip doesn't make sense. But I'd still get a 2.2. If you dont' get a 95 2.2 and get a 96-99 get the Y pipe as well. If you get a 2.5 might as well do the HG's and reseal while it's out and pray the bearings are still good. Frankly I wouldn't buy a 2.5 with a no return policy. Just not worth it! Most of the variance is rubber hose vacuum line plumbing.

I believe the tricky part is the 1.25 pitch. I wanna say 14 x 1.25 from memory (a bad memory). Take one of the nuts you took off to Lowes. Figure out how long of bolts you'll need. Usually you need 2 nuts(and 4 washers) and 2 bolts to put an engine on the stand. The 2 lower studs remain in the engine unless you purposely remove them. BTW engine/trans nuts, motor mount nuts, and exhaust stud nuts are all the same. Come with some special coating from Subaru and are a bit pricey. I ALWAYS put anti-seize on the new bolts that will thread into the engine. Don't need to be buggering up those threads. I actually also apply some to the stud threads.

There is and oil pump Oring. Usually Blue (not jsut regular rubber). There is no oil pump gasket it's just ultra-grey. Unless you look it up in lets say a Fel-Pro book who's primary purpose is to sell gaskets. Others should chime in to confirm/deny. I don't work much on 2.5 SOHC's.

Leave it together. No new head gaskets or bolts on the 2.2. HG issues VERY rare. Reseal it and drop it in.

The 2.2 swap is very easy. I didn't believe it the first time I did one. Usually the only engine swap issue that needs some playing with are the charcoal canister lines and sometimes vacuum lines - but it can all be figured out. Every swap seems just a little bit different. And no bracket for the PS lines - but who cares. If you've already got loose that lower drivers side nut in the bellhousing and had the enigne seperated (when looking for a flexplate issue) the hard part is already done. You will need a single port Y-pipe though. Good luck.

Yea - rod knock is very common to the cars I see. Not piston slap - rod knock. But as GG said I'm typically buying broken cars (HG's typically). So I rarely fix the HG's unless I can talk to the PO and confirm it doesn't have many overheating cycles on it. If someone has played with it enough that it has a new WP, rad cap, etc. I figure it's been overheated too many times and just 2.2 it. I'd just reseal a 2.2 and drop it in. If you find someone that will do the bearing correctly and cheapely I've got 6-8 complete 2.5's here that need HG's and bearings. I'm not currently doing much car stuff but if I could get 2.5's done well and reasonably I would seriousely consider that option.