davebugs

I've only been doing Suby's about 3 years and the pretty blue bottles I've always received from the dealer did have "Holts" molded into the bottle. Must depend on area of the country or dealer stock.

I've got a 2001 Golf TDI. 190k. Been super reliable. Other than regular maintenance I can count on one hand the repairs, and half of them were covered on recall (like the MAF). And one was the third brake light at 150k. 40 mpg (it's an auto) and I truely expect 300-400k. But I've also got an assortment of old air-cooled's. Now the 1.8 turbo's I avoid. Any tranny trouble is typically big $. But they sure ride and handle better than the jap stuff - even the Acura and Lexus's that I've driven. VW's are excellent traveling cars in my opinion. They do get kinda crazy with multiple engines and especially tranny's for the same model year in the late model cars though. Someday for kicks look up exactly what their collection of name plates is - you'll probably be surprised.

Personally Subaru for HG, crank, cam seals. Subaru or Felpro (usually priced about the same for many gaskets) for intake, exhaust, valve cover. Usually just depends if I'm at the parts store or dealer. Generally the deeper into the engine the more likely Subaru parts. I often do plugs even if not needed while the engine is out. Idlers and WP are up to you. But if you're doing crank/cam seals you'll certainly be in there. I'd use it as a chance to put fresh coolant in as well.

You can buy those kits yourself at some of the chain stores. I bought a nice complete kit (oil, rediator, AC), light 12v w/clips, yellow glasses, etc for 100.00. Seems to me a light and enough trace to do a one time diagnosis was like 20-25.00. I use it for SOHC 2.5 HG diagnosis mostly.

As pointed out here 2.2 HG's are rare. The only 2.2's I've ever purchased with HG issues have burn't white - like a traditional HG issue but they often need warmed up first. Not the "classic" 2.5 issues like you seem to be having.

The rear main seal is DIFFERENT than the baffle/oil seperator plate. Most folks here (including me) don't touch the rear main. Resist the temptation to replace it just because the engine is out. The only ones I've ever needed to replace were already replaced one time. My local dealer doesn't even stock them - what's that tell ya? A tube of Ultra Grey and some carb/brake cleaner and a gasket scraper are all you need for the baffle plate.

cam and crank are the same as well. Spark plugs heat range is slightly different.

The pan is a PITA. Can't get at the back bolts without lifting the engine a little. Seriousely I'd probably just wait until the engine is pulled. It's stuck on there pretty good with sealer (not a gasket). I know it's not my car and I don't know how bad it's leaking. Perhaps others here will chime in. How much oil are you adding - if any?

2 thoughts. Just have a new sleeve welded in. Shouldn't be much. Like I said I get them done for 40.00 - but I get a lot of them done. Second - are you SURE it's the oil pan seal (there actually isn't a gasket). Have you read here about hte oil seperator/baffle plate. If not do some searching. You may be throwing your money away with that repair as well.

Anxious to hear the solution. I usually pass on automatic cars that are locked up for this very reason.

I'd say no. I've had outstanding results with Lucas Power Steering additive. Available at Wal-Mart and the auto store chains. I'd be afraid of the brake fluid myself.

You can check vwvortex and see what you can find out. Full of a bunch of kids talking of stereo's, rims, mufflers and other things that have nothing to do with running/maintaining a car but some very worthwhile content if you dig. It can be hard to find though.

If it's the cat I believe it's covered by a mandatory federal law until like 100k. Hoepfully someone here will know. Other than that it's probably the flex joint immediately before the second cat. I have them cut out and new pipe (like 4") welded in for 40 bucks. But I have a lot of them done so you may need to pay more. I see NO ADVANTAGE to keeping the doughnut/spring loaded bolts setup. I'm sure there is a reason - but not good enough to spend hundreds more on the same repair. Save the money for the upcoming head gasket repair.

I don't fix them. Sometimes I will pay a tranny shop to look things over and fix reverse. I believe a few special tools are needed that a tranny shop has. More tranny specific than VW specific I think. I think my average repair bill after I drop the tranny off is 350 or so. A couple of hours to tear it apart, 60 bucks in Reverse gear and assorted parts, reassemble. But I really don't do many. The 5 speeds make the auto's look cheap though. They are usually around 1,500 used. But I have had pretty good success getting htem fixed - but not cheaply. Good luck. I'll be surprised if you actually end up fixing the tranny. Tearing it down may be fun.

Those tanny's are the issue. Hard to get past 200-250k with one. The 2.0 engines are pretty bullet proof. Reverse to that tranny is what HG's are to a Suby 2.5 DOHC. As an idea. That tranny used costs me 700. I can get that 2.0 engine delivered (minus distributor) for under 100.00 with a 6 month warranty. Under 150.00 with a distributor.

Usually it's reverse on those tranny's. Around here they go for about 700 used. When reverse fails it's only like 60.00 in parts but a whole lotta labor since VW German overengineer everything. I have a tranny shop do it. Only ones I've had get stuck in forward gears was the linkage being a problem. I happen to have a car with that tranny setting here that I haven't gotten to. A 97 Golf GTI 2.0 5 speed. It's a running/driving car that needs some work. I'm more likely to part it but shipping would be killer. Good luck with the internals of a VW trans. If you do go used try and verify reverse first. They all make a bit of a "whine" in reverse - it's a VW thing.

I had a 97 GT with the same issues. Ended up being the LF axle. After I started looking and poking around it did have a little "extra" play. So while you're under there you may want to yank on the axles as well to check for play.

I always pull the engine is similar situations - clutch jobs and such. My reasoning is that I'm usually doing HG's and other work and it's simply easier to work on the engine out of the car. All the major maintenance stuff. If you can't find a flex plate local drop me a note. I know I have some 2.2's but I'd have to see if I have a 2.5 already hanging on the wall.

I've got atleast one set (another set is still on the car). Nothing special. 2 have tires to go fetch another Outback with 2 bad tires that I no longer have time to go get. I'll be in and out all week. PM me an email.

97 should have valve shims to adjust the valves. But if it got hot before the HG's were done it could easily be rod bearings. Perhaps others here will have more positive suggestions than rob knock/rod bearings. I usually listen to the area behind cyl#3 - closest the firewall on the pass side while standing at the front of the car. I pay particular attention to the noise when coming down from reving the engine. Good luck. Please give WNC a little more meaning - like a city/state. Someone here may be able to listen to it for you as a second opinion.

Used many of their kits without issues. I source my own WP and belts. I know many sets I've installed have gone 100k. I use their idlers and sometimes new style tensioners. Haven't been doing many Suby's lately thought. Bearings used to be "GMB" which are very acceptable. my experience has been very good.

I get 2.5 kits from them frequently. I get Dayco belts locally for about hte same price. I think they are the best value in kits.

I believe I save PS pump bolts for this - to remove stubborn disc's. Whatever I use are from a Subaru and aren't threaded the whole way to the end so they don't even nick up the hub. But after several uses the end kinda mushrooms.

Here's what I do. I have a local exhaust place that bends pipe. They will put a new section welded in there for 40.00. Probably less than I'd have in 2 of those flange clamps and the tapered donut gasket and fancy spring setup. And was less time consuming and better in my opinion. As GG has pointed out I get a good price because they do a lot of these for me. And you can't take it apart there without cutting it in the future - but usually I've just done a complete reseal and engine swap or HG job so who cares for quite a while. Fixing that is a real pain. And I was never happy with my fix. So it may be worth a few calls.

SEARCH for links here and you can probably download the Factory Service Manual for free. And way better than Chiltons or Haynes. Also my local dealer will give me the latest Head Bolt torque instructions when I ask nicely. Again better info than any aftermarket manual.