davebugs

Gary, You don't mention year or model. But all the SOHC's that I've done (up to 2006) are much easier than any of the DOHC's.

An old piece of hose works too. Old because they are more mallable than a new hunk that's still curved from being on the roll.

That idler is the most common idler failure that I've seen. I stock an extra. Even if folks wanna go cheap I insist on replacing that one - it takes quite a load. I've seen them where some of the ball bearings melt themselves into the timing covers.

Assuming they aren't gaulded - that's about all the more it takes. Anti-seize!!!! on the fresh ones. I also put dielectric grease on the plug wires and porcelin of the plug. Another thing I've seen done that makes enough sense that I often do it. Get a way, way long extension - especially for the drivers side - like a couple feet long. Rather than trying to use the ratchet in the engine compartment get one long enough that the ratchet is actually outside the fender. Makes a lot of sense when you think about it. I bought a cheap (GRIP) set just for this. And an excellent swivel spark plug socket (S-K or K-D - I always get them confused). A great combination.

Lube them very, very well. They are gonna creak a lot when torqueing - atleast a few of them it seems. Which may cause to double think re-using them. I always reuse them myself.

I'm pretty much in agreement with the others here. I get theimportexperts kits, and get all seals(and WP gasket) at the dealer because I think the OEM's are worth the money. I install Dayco timing belts sourced locally and a new Cardone all metal WP source locally along w/NGK plugs and accessory belts. I've never installed anything other than OEM seals on a suby. I've seen too many black ones leak. If the engine is out - or you're doing HG's a tube of ultra grey and you're all set. I haven't advertised a car for sale for probably 5 months because I'm swamped with my "real" work. But I've sold several - all to folks that Iv'e sold cars to before, or their friends. Folks come back because they DON'T think I've cut any corners. And I know that atleast several of these kits I've installed have gone 80-100k because folks have called me to ask about me doing the next timing belt job. The other folks probably haven't hit 100k or actually listened when I said I don't work on other folk's cars. I've never had a complaint about pre-mature failure. I think these kit are an excellent value, and much better than not addressing the idlers as has already been stated. Them's my thoughts.

Hadn't read far enough. Looks like Porc found it as fues #19 under the dash in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75930&highlight=ABS+fuse Sorry for reviving this. Back to bed (tying and NyQuil don't mix well).

Sorry to resurrect an older thread. I just did some searching and it wasn't quick to be found. And my memory is failing me, it's cold outside, I was in bed w/sinus "issues" and I'd have to look for a flashlight and head outside tonight. Hoping that someone knows this to put my mind at ease until I get out there in the morning. Someone just called to test drive this car tomorrow morning knowing it has the ABS problem. But I still want to pull the fuse and I forget where it is. Is it in the main fuse panel under the dash or on the drivers fender well? I gotta pull the fuse, find the pass side timing belt cover I removed to see if the belt looked like it had been replaced and re-install it, and take it around the block to clean up the brakes by 10am. And meet a realtor to get into the hosue that I bought today. First real cold morning here this year and I expect to be moving slowly... Any thoughts appreciated (mostly for peace of mind). In the morning hopefully I can figure it out/remember where it is myself. Thanks.

When I dis-assemble a car any "worldwide" electronic components get scrapped, or saved for next time I need a core. I've had many of them still looking like new that were crap. I'd never actually install one. I have perhaps a half dozen Subaru Reman alt's from various cars and I typically sell them last. Incase I need them for a car I'm fixing up. The last few board members I sold one to were Subaru reman's. Or I have a local (retireing) that still rebuilds them - often while I wait. Starters alternators, generators, etc. I'll miss him when he's gone. Another "trade" that doesn't make much sense to get into anymore. I give him all the work that I can.

Sears has them - like 20 bucks - often on sale. They have replaced mine 3 times in the last few years. I use it on Suby's for baffle plate screws and often side mirror removal. Always a nice meaty handle when the screw is broken loose.

Sputters and dies sounds like that about 1" about foot long stiff hose that's a bit hidden. Forgive me - I don't do many Foresters. On a Legacy IIR it's on the passenger side. Goes basically from under the airbox over towards the passenger side strut tower. That's all I can remember - but it's happened enough times to me that I know it sounds like a possibility for you. Use your hands to check - not just your eyes. It can be close and look good, but not connected. Happy hunting.

I'd yank it. Look it over good on the engine stand. Then probably take it to a machine shop in all actuality. I'm not big on the whole easyout stuff if it can be helped at all. Same with heli-coils but there aren't many choices when things are this screwed up. When you yank it I'd dryfit all the parts to make sure you have them all so you'll know if that is an additional concern.

See if anyone else has feedback - but I go new if I have a choice. It's kinda deep in there to be using used parts. Especially when I seem to get about 2 per year that are cracked. Infact maybe a third of the manuals I get have either the fork cracked or the clips (TO bearing to fork) broken. And I'd rather fix this problem than HG's. Then again I always pull the engine (never the tranny) and do HG's idlers, belts, plugs, baffle plate, seals, etc while it's out. But then again, I basically only buy broken cars.

A more common failure than you'd think. I buy new due to this. I forget - but I want to say maybe 60 bucks?

I use the 3M double sided tape. My simple prep. Clean with soap and water - both pieces Wipe down both surfaces with IPA (Isapropal(sp?) alchohol - also known as dry gas). Install tape mate pieces Press. The warmer all 3 components are the better

As GG says they are a bit "moody" about ignition components. And the knock sensor won't cause it to quit running, or not start. Just for it to run crappy. What brand is the coil pack? Wires? Regular NGK green plugs or something exotic? Start there and the folks here will try and help you out. As a public service - don't buy ANY aftermarket ignition parts for a 2.5 (NGK plugs are OEM, Diamond coil packs I believe can be OEM).

I know there are 3 connectors at the bell housing on 99 and earlier cars, and starting in 2000 (it seems, 99 on Foresters - when things went SOHC 2.5) there are 2 connectors. Never researched further than that for swaps. Also - the usual disclaimer about the rear diff being the same ratio.

They can be fun to find. I'd be willing to bet it's not swap related like GG suggested. ABS prob's have been the most elusive for me.

Quality of rotors VARIES WIDELY. The ultimate "you get what you pay for". I just paid 80 each for my DD and I could have gotten the cheapest for 20. Typically the pads last, and the rotors crap out on my DD. OEM rotors last 100k, cheap aftermarkets last 20k, decent aftermarkets last 60k. I went OEM this time. Infact come to think of it they basically cost 1.00 for each 1k I get out of them. And I'm only talking rotors - so given everything works (no caliper hanging up), is lubed (slide pins and such), it just depends how much you like doing brake jobs. If over 100k miles the cost is literally the same (actually it'd be more when you figure the pads with the rotors as I do) and one way I get to do it one time, and the other 5 times - guess which one I'm gonna choose? YMMV

Yep. Rip them off (and they are a little tougher than yoiu'd think to get off). Disclaimers for the non practical types with apparently deep pockets.

The actual Y pipe is a rare failure. The rusty part (inner part) is the actual exhaust. The non-rusty pieces are the heat shields and expendable. Look for a used one. I have some and am heading that way weekly - maybe 2 hours from you. I usually get 50 bucks for them (single or dual port) and have several of each I believe still in the rafters. They are a bit of a pain to ship. All used ones will have some heat shield issues as already explained. Dave

You'd be creating comparatively tremendous odds of a problem that you didn't have before (a leaking rear main). The only ones I've had to replace had already been replaced one time. Perhaps 5% of the Subaru's that I've done. I leave them alone. Do the baffle plate and call it a day.

I may have some CC stuff off a 95 2.2 or a 97 2.5. Don't recall if the 95 has cruise - and I was never able to drive that car (tranny). The 97 2.5 cruise did work. I'll have to see what it takes to pull. What may you need? I don't usually pull CC parts - so I don't know what they all are or how difficult to remove.

Gary, I've had a few where the button is beside the hood release lever. Still a little black button.

Send me a pic of the top of your throttle body - so that I can see the little vacuum lines. I'm home today but leaving town again. I can possobly get it off before I leave. I'll be back wednesday (buying a Freddie Mac foreclosure) then back to VA for thu and fri. I believe I have 3 97 2.2's here - and one already dug out that I was getting parts off of.