davebugs

I haven't tried the LED's. But I find the 3 HVAC bulbs for under 20 bucks at the dealer is easier than using the cheaper radio shack ones and trying to peel the rubbers off the old bulbs. But i'm not exactly an electronics wiz.

Search. Excellent link/procedure here somewhere on the HVAC bulbs (3 of them). I've never needed to look for the other procedure.

I have one of these already pulled to put on Ebay. Tested while still in the car at all speeds. I could probably do 25.00 shipped w/paypal. With all the snow today I may take pics and list some items. Like virtually brand new OEM Subaru headlights from the same car. Had just been repaired from an accident and the tranny went. Actualy the college kid drove it "while it made a noise" until the rear driveshaft came out of the tranny and beat up the tranny, exhaust, and floor. Not worth fixing. I've already started to part it. So if you need anything speak up. Otherwise it's all Ebay bound.

Sorry. Thought I may have what you needed laying around.

I forget. Are the flywheel bolts the same as flexplate bolts? Fine threaded buggers? If so I have them settin' in a bin. I do (fix and junk) way more auto's than standards. Curious - why do you need them? Damaged or missing? Have a pic?

VW air-cooled and Subaru engines are virtually the only horizontally opposed engines for mainstream cars. That's why if the exhaust is bad you can't tell which car it is (but it's getting easier as the old VW"s die off and are restored so they have no exhaust noise) I believe the similarities ends there. Porche and VW have worked together for many, many years. Japanese and Germans don't cross polinate well on production items like this in my experience.

We fixed one of these last year. Started a thread and has a few pics. Even screwed up the oil pump. Welded the crank, dremel to clean up the keyway. Had a long time Subaru tech help - and I'm not used to having help. Forgot to take pics of evactly what you need to see. Things move more quiclykly than I'm used to when two folks are working on the car. I pulled the engine to make it easier to work on. I did the usual stuff while it was out - the major maintenance stuff. Make sure you get the new crank bolt TIGHT when it's re-assembled.

I'll second that suggestion.

Post in the wanted section. I still think I have atleast one but I forget which side. And I won't be home until tomorrow. They are hard to come across.

I use OEM only Head Gaskets, crank and cam seals. Intake if needed OEM or Felpro. Same with exhaust and valve cover sets. I buy probably the same PCI idler kits from theimportexperts. I use Dayco Timing and accessory belts. Someone asked this exact question last night I swear. NGK V-groove cheap plugs (green writing). I have the rad flushed and pressure tested. Heads checked, surfaced if needed, and steam cleaned(I believe is what they do in a cool gizmo often overnight). Could do Oil pump Oring and don't forget ot check the oil pump screws. Seriousely search here. Some excellent procedures and parts lists/comments. Usually intake gaskets and be re-used, exhausts are 50/50. A tube of Ultra Grey for corners on heads, oil pump, baffle plate. edit: Something I usually don't mention. Frequently I clean the throttle body and intake while I have the opportunity. Make SURE you ge tthe crank bolt tight. Break loose the cam bolts BEFORE removing the timing belt. Again all covered well here. Good luck.

FYI for a few bucks (maybe 20) you can buy a cheap kit at the parts store with additive to put into the oil and a blacklight and yellow glasses. I do enough Suby's that I purchased a complete kit (oil, water, AC, etc). It's worth the few bucks to potentially save you pulling the engine. But it it has never been out I'd make a serious bit it's the baffle plate. Look at the Y pipe where it comes together for just enough oil to be annoying. It'll take a while for it to show up on the Y pipe since the baffle plate doesn't leak bad. But this way you may be the lucky one who doesn't need to pull the engine. As pointed out. It's a bigger job to do the baffle plate - but I'd bet that's where you're heading. And if you have it out just do the HG's and be done for the next 100k. If it is the baffle plate other than being annoying it really doesn't hurt anything.

Pull the engine and fix the baffle plate/oil seperator plate. Search around here - common issue. Suggest OEM wires. NGK cheap V-groove (Green printing) spark plugs. OEM cam/crank seals. I like the OEM WP gasket as well. Get idler set online. It'll come with an idler for the old style tensioner that you have. Do some searching. If nothing else for head gasket repair to get the info on all this other stuff. Come to think of it if you plan on keeping it jsut do the HG's with OEM while the engine is out.

I use FelPro all the time. And even on Suby's for intake, exhaust, VC. Just not FelPro HG's for a Suby. And like Mike have never had an issue. I've probably done 2 or 3 times as many as Mike. And my dealer will give you the latest torque instructions. Hard to tell how many I've done since often there is rod knock so I do 2.2 swaps rather than HG's. Probably under 50 but getting close. I'd suggest buying OEM and only doing it one time. Unless you wanna get good at it by possibly doing it twice. I don't care how broke you are. Max 100.00 while the engine is out versus an unplanned failure and possibly doing it again seems like a no brainer. YMMV I just hate to see folks create work for themselves. Infact I may have been one of the folks that warned Mike come to think of it. Don't forget to check the head for straightness if you're not sending them out. And prep the surface well.

Rack failure rare. Pump failure much more often. Pump leaking - somewhat common - but doesn't effect performance.

I've seen lots of plastic ones. Only one with a hair line crack. And I don't remember but it may have been a JY engine delivered that way. I reseal the plastic ones. Haven't had an issue yet. And I'm not one for short cutting or skimping. The labor for an independent shop is probably fair.

Ugly, This WAS asked very recently. A newer SOHC 2.5 into a late 90's Legacy IIR. Grossgary and I both responded in that thread IIR. It may have been about a Forester as donor or to be fixed. But - it'd be ugly. Common recepient of a swap - do some searching here about 2.2 swap. 2.5's will work but if you're gonna buy a used engine 2.2 is the way to go. Wireing is different for one thing. You could probably make it work. But it would be an unpleasant experience just to say you did it. YMMV

Those allens don't leak. And they are usually TIGHT! But I really don't know what purpose they serve. Nipper has the correct questions. ALong with if the pump was ever off did they check the phillips screws to make sure they were tight and use an OEM crank seal.

You need to dig a little. Are the tabs just broken? Aftermarket grille, looking like aftermarket/replacement bumper cover probably. Hard to tell the extent of your issues. I'd be happy to sell you parts that I might have but you're almost gonna have to get your car side by side with an unmolested car to figure out what all needs fixed. Until then you're possibly just wasting money.

I've got a set from a 95 Legacy L setting in the backseat (sold bumper cover). A like new set still in a 97 OBW (had recently hit a deer and new OEM lights and Grille). I'll want big bucks for them. And some strays around. Mostly 95-97 L and OB stuff. I don't believe I have any left that fit the 99's - even to compare to. Drop me a PM if you have trouble sourcing them locally with what you're looking for and an offer.

Yep. They definately changed around '98? The Grille may have changed. But the turn signal lense is definately different.

I emailed radiator barn to se about delivery last night. GG - yes - I have a half dozen here but am thinking of new. I don't install used ones (even known good) until I have them flushed and pressure checked and that costs 20 bucks and takes a day or two. I believe this car I'm selling to a friend for his college kid, who lives with his mother 60 miles away. The rad would be the only thing not new (belts, hoses, HG's, Idlers, WP, all 3 filtrers, you get the idea) so I'd like to go new for the few more bucks. Thanks for the feedback folks. Yea - list at Advance was like 200. I'll check my local independent and rediator shop this morning.

As I've posted before get a Valeo kit off Ebay and pay a few more bucks for all USA and Japanese parts rather tan the cheapest. I've always been afraid to try the cheapest (pretty much of anything) and save roughly half on the "better" Valeo kit, and that's good enough for me.

Quality, price, quick shipping. Gotta make some calls tomorrow. Need one by next week and prefer not to go used since everything else I'm doing will be new. Any recommendations other than local parts stores and/or Ebay. Ebay for this may be a bit scary and I wouldn't want to pay to have a rad shipped quickly. But if you'd like to share an experience I'm all ears.

Yea. I'd bet the axles weren't re-installed quite correctly. Perhaps they killed the battery, or connections aren't tight when they reconnected it.

Don't know what the 99 is out of. But if it's a DOHC going into a SOHC engine bay I don't think it will work. First check is whether they both have 2 or 3 plugs at the bellhousing where the engine meets the trans.