davebugs

I've done about half as many as Tom - all in the last few years. Usually minor issues - around EVAP and vacuum lines. Nothing major. About as much work as doing HG's in my opinion.

Welcome. I'm in the same general area. Currently spending a lot of time in VA though. Where exactly are you? PM if necessary.

14mm swivel socket. That's exactly why I purchased one. Works better thean a flex joint, wobble extension, etc. 14mm swivel socket (name brand/guaranteed) and a long 3/8 extension or two to get it down where you can put some leverage on it. I tend to try and break this one first. Figure I don't need it to have the additional stress of being the last nut/bolt broken loose. DOn't know if it matters or not. Worst thing would be to round off that nut - that would really be unpleasant. Buy the correct tool. I've taken to having 2 Sears. That way when I break one I still have one until I get it replaced. I believe I broke 4 last year and 2 this year. Then again I'm in the rust belt, and pull a few Suby engines.

Yep. Them grommets get tight. But the motor's just pull/pry off.

That's how I do it. I think I get them delivered for 100 bucks or just over that. I don't even bother pulling them from cars I'm going to scrap since that makes them unable to get off the lift and onto the trailer to scrap. For 100 bucks for me it's money well spent.

They are the same. But sometimes the plumbing for the little EVAP hoses is different. I don't remember more than that. I usually ask for a pic of what they have (on the top - while it's still on their engine) to match up to. I probably have 10 or so left on 2.2 and 2.5's. I've had one return spring break on a throttle body on a 97 Outback, one TPS go bad, and sold a few throttle bodies due to TPS issues.

I typically swap the whole throttle body - I find that easier. You don't say in your profile where you are located. I sell a few per year. Others probably have some as well. Read the procedure for setting a new one. That's why I install a whole throttle body assy.

Wagner Thermo-Quiet is about all I use. Seem to be consistently high quality. Now rotors - there is a crap shoot.

If you're not in a hurry I'm parting a 95 2.2 auto sedan that the rear driveshaft came loose. So the switch should be fine. But it would be a couple weeks until I could get it off. Don't know about shipping to Canada, or if you could return what you have purchased.

The "first" question. Are you sure the DOHC bottom end is good enough to consider to do this amount of work on?

Advance's "jobber" Powerflow filters are Purolator. But I've never seen a cutaway of one. But it's what I use on 2.2 and 2.5's except the much later ones with the bypass valve in them - them I use OEM. Looking at the jobber filter's check valve the OEM valve seems more substancial.

I have a thread here abotu fixing one of these within the past year - it has pics. Well it has pics of everything but the fixing (welding, grinding, slot celanup) on the crank. But you can clearly see how trached the sprocket, harmonic balancer, oil pump, etc was and we were able to fix it.

FWIW I've seen WP gaskets go bad - but never the WP itself. But I do all seals(OEM), idlers, WP & OEM gasket. Occasionally I skimp on the new style tensioner due to the price. Depending on the miles on the car and how it seems when I compress it.

Definatley recommended. I try and hit them a day or two before with Liquid Wrench. I think it penetrates better and leaves behind an oily film if you have the time to wait. I use a lot of PB - but usually for stuff I'm basically dis-assembling basically immediately. Another pointer. There is a rubber gasket and those screws typically are tight even when the rust is broken for several turns. And you don't wanna screw up the heads. I frequently use one of those impact drivers to get them started. Then I use it for the first few turns since it's big and meaty and easy to get a grip on and keep sufficient pressure on the bolt. I have scrapped cars with like new filler tubes because the screws/bolts got buggered up and it's not worth the risk of burning down the garage to use a Dremel or something to cut a slot in them.

Waste of time. And harder to fix later. All that crap gets into the heater core, radiator, engine, WP, etc. I'd say either park it, sell it, or fix it right. Anything else is pissing into the wind. A waste of time and money. Do yourself a favor and do a little searching here. Cause next thing you know if it's all about the money you'll be buying an EBay HG kit (due to the price) and get to do it twice. That really sucks(but it goes much quicker the second time). Infact it was probably a waste of my time with the response.

Yea - and start mulitple threads! I just answered the "other" one with basically the same info that these folks gave you.

Search here for "resetting security system" or similar. Common issue. On Legacy's there is a black button with under the steering column or by the hood release. Not that formiliar with Foresters. Do a search, find a flashlight, and stick your head on the drivers floormat and start looking.

I'm usually doing it all. But I believe the WP doesn't need to be removed at all to do the oil pump. But I do buy the OEM WP gasket if one is needed. Yes - when you remove the oil pump (you'll need a new crank seal - OEM recommended) you'll be able to see the screws on the back. Make sure they are tight. Some here use Loctite. I install the crank seal after the oil pump is re-installed. But there was a thread about that recently some folsk install the seal while the pump is on the bench.

He's probably talking about the rubber vacuum line that goes to the brake booster. It's got a few bends in it and a check valve built into it.

Tom, What I would need in particular is the striped for a rear wheel well side. Then I'd have a pattern and the color to take and see about getting some made. So if anyone has a side they aren't using for around the wheel well in particuler that they could sell at a fair price or loan to me for a few weeks I could get an answer. At this time it just doesn't make sense for me to buy a set to use as a pattern. Infact the only car I currently had that could have used this repair sold last night. But I'd expect I'll see more. Would be one of those things that would be nice to know for the future and if other may be interested that's even more incentive. Usually they like to cut full sheets. The place I usually use does a lot of emergency vehicles so they are used to the long stripes. Infact they are used to installing them as well which may be an option for me.

Yep. And that part that porc showed is a tight fit to get back in there. Clean well and assembly lube and take your time. I've found it easier to install it using the 2 bolts a turn or two at a time each after aligned than trying to "work" the piece into almost fully seated then starting with the bolts.

The more I thought about this thread and these tires I ordered more on monday. Local tire shop about the same price as tirerack.

I use only OEM on 2.5's but if you're using some weird off-brand that could be the issue. Fel-por isn't a weird offbrand but are almost the same cost as OEM so like I said on 2.5's (and now 2.2's) I only use OEM. But if you have something generic in there - a good guess would be that's the source of the problem.

The oil pump screws were suggested as one of the first posts in the old thread. I'd certainly take the time to check them when doing the seal.