davebugs

For some brands they can only go back so many years to be dealer certified used cars. Years and I believe miles. You know - it it's a Subaru Dealer it's a Subaru less than lets say 5 years old with under 50k (just guessing) and they can "dealer certify" them, add a little warranty, and have folks really pay up for them. Since shortage of cars is becoming an issue this gets them late model inventory and they sell a new car - doesn't get much better than that! Most Suby dealers also sell other makes(often Domestic) that perception aside they are running out of since Detroit prodcuction is such a mess and supply is running out.

You are correct on the location of the Orings. They disappeared by 99 it seems. But are on 97 2.2's. Give your Subaru parts supplier your vin# - they should be able to tell you if the engine has them or not. If you know what you're looking for you can just look. Or look here or Endwrench for pics of lets say a 95 2.2. Those engines definately have the Orings.

Heli Coil it. BTW I don't use Harbor Freight torque wrenches for anything that matters - only lug buts. Don't mean to pile on. But think about it. A cheap untested torque wrench on aluminum threads that should only go 16 lbs? You're lucky it wasn't something more important. I believe I've seen posts here about folks who relocate the knock sensor. Perhaps a search would turn it up. Never done it myself. Come to think of it drilling it with the intake on and in the car will take a long bit. Don't know about access for the heli coil T handle gizmo either. Atleast it's something that only needs 16 lbs and not susceptable to high pressures. Bummer though. Hate it when quick jobs turn complex.

Any foglight or other issues (like grille). Just asking. I haven't interchanged them myself yet - just fenders. Had a lady call tonight about a front bumper cover for a 97 Legacy sedan. I have 2 Outback assy's and a plain old L one on a car yet. Said she could get the whole assy on Ebay for 30 bucks. I told her - she'd better buy that Ebay one. I'm sure getting it to Pittsburgh at no charge wouldn't be an issue for that 30 bucks.

I bought the Snap-on "roto ratchet" in 1/4 inch just for these bolts. Now Gearwrench makes a much cheaper set. I also stuf something in the hole incase I loose one - even when removing the bolts (not just for installation) And do look around for TC seating instructions! You'll want to have it seated properly or have an expensive repair and be pulling the engine again. BTW A trick I use is I take a paint stick and draw a line from each bolt hole towards the center. This line I can see through the holes in the flexplate and makes finding/aligning that first bolt easier when reinstalling the bolts.

I see others are looking perhaps they will answer. Look by the throttle body, there is a Black plastic plate. Remove the plate and turn the crank as necessary to get access.

I swap the whole assembly as well. Never done the bearing.

If nothing else it's a selling feature.

Most of the ones I see are like that. But occasionally there is a reset button right by the hood release. But I only really deal with up to 99's so I may be incorrect.

Don't recall them being difficult. The one nut/bolt is easier gotten from the bottom to have some leverage. That's about all that I remember. You'll want to remove some plumbing around the intake - plastic and air hoses - atleast I do. But not a big or unpleasant job at all. I feel sure that the procedure is written up already and you could find it with some searching.

This will help this very thing not happen to you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=850226#post850226 Or help you fix one that someone else already screwed up.

Yea - finding someone like that will be EASY!!! I had a brush with this stuff in the early 80's but was going the Copyright route and found out someone else was about 3 months ahead of me. It was for ordering your groceries online when PC's were basically in their infancy. And the real issue then was that liability insurance was killing businesses and this way you just needed warehouses with some employees to pull the orders. Then have the customer drive through or deliver them. The technology was the enabler to solve the business cost(insurance, fixtures, maintenance, etc) issues. In that case it was an idea (with very detailed specifics) but IIR you Copyright ideas and Patent gizmo's. Sounding like 5k to Patent. It basically is a glorified hub/bearing puller looking gizmo so there are similar idea'd products. Anyone could change a minor thing and get around the patent. I invest some overseas. Just like Japan in the 80's China won't respect Patents until they have some of their own. They still file for virtually NO patents themselves (although they seem to scrounge other's Patent fileings and make knockoff products quickly). Therefore they won't hesitate to steal intellectual property, Patents, Copyrights, whatever.

Harmonic balancer tool for 2.2 and early 2.5 is done. I'll test it a little on engines here and hopefully post the pics I just took. I should be able to have basically the same thing made for 2.5's hopefully for about the same price. I'll be starting a thread somewhere about the new tool(s) for Subaru's. The VW tool I'm having 5 more sets made, looking to source a 12mm about 9 1/2" bolt (rather then the current allthread and double nuts). Also buying the only real competitive tool to evaluate before I put a lot of reseources into this.

I keep a cheap (Harbor Freight?) clicker torque wrench set between 80-85 lbs for all aluminum wheels. And it's been set there for years so it may be a little shy of the setting. B ut they "feel good" when they click.

I don't do these kinds of swaps. But gas in oil is typically one of 3 things. Bad fuel pressure regulator Injector is bad and/or leaking down Fuel return line is plugged.

Basics please. Legacy/Impreza/Forester, year, perhaps even miles. That kinda stuff. I'm having similar issues with a 97 Legacy L wagon.

I believe you'll need to drill and tap the block for that metal tube that I believe ties into the EGR system thats about a foot long IIR. That would be a bit of a pain. Unless you don't need the EGR stuff.

I seem to remove a lot that are black, newer, and leaking. I just get them at the dealer. They are still under 10 bucks each. They are an item I've not chanced using something other than OEM. If someone has used something else with long term success I'd love to hear about it - especially if the price is significantly different.

Post this in the New Generation forum. Do some searching there on head gasket replacement and you'll probably find all your part#'s. If not your dealer will have the part#'s since you want all dealer gaskets anyways. Acutally the Subaru head gaskets are a must. The exhaust and intake I use OEM or Fel-Pro. But search in New Generation AND post this question there.

SEARCH! Common issue if it's due to rust. I forget but try pulling the handle out THEN lock and unlock from the power lock botton or remote. Then pull on the handle again and it will probably open. If that doesn't work try the opposite. Push the handle IN while the hatch is down, lock and unlock using the power botton/remote whatever then try and open it again. Relatively inexpensive and somewhat easy fix. I want to say the parts are still less than 40 bucks. Assuming it's the typical rust issue.

I believe that you may be correct. Thus my request for a photo of that area behind the intake for cyl#3. I guessing either he's missing the T or the plug is in the manifold (where the 2 holes are close together above cyl#3) and he needs to remove the plug and put in a nipple.

Not ringing any bells for me. Perhaps someone else knows. A pic of the back side of the intake (lower left in the existing pic - behind intake for cyl#3) would show whether there is a T in the line back there and other lines. Do all lines appear accounted for? Sometimes I end up with a plug in the top hole (of the 2 holes) in the intake above cylinder #3, sometimes I don't. I just work through each one. I'm shutting down for the night. Hopefully someone can recognize this and assist you.

Yea - do some searching. Off the top of my head. OEM crank and cam seals. Idlers(perhaps new tensioner). If you plan on having it for a while I'd probably just yank it and do the HG's while I was at it. Also check the baffle plate - actually I'd reseal it. I also wouldn't touch the rear main. Valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, Oil pump Oring (and check the screws). Do some searching.

Search will tell you all you need to know. Then ask SPECIFIC questions if you have any. A lot of us do these swaps frequently.

I definately have difficulties searching Endwrench. So much so that there is an Endwrench folder in my Bookmarks where I save links.