davebugs

Still probably the belt. Sometimes I've seen bogus cam or crank codes since it doesn't understand that the belt can be off. And these codes are intermittent. I'm in the belt is off a tooth or more camp as an educated guess.

I have several complete intake assy's if you decide to go that route. Don't know what a good one goes for. Most of mine are known good and they are all marked.

The "oil seperater/bafle plate" is on the right in that last pic. You gotta remove the engine or trans to get at it, and the transmission seal - if thats what you're looking for. If you remove the torgue converter make sure you look here to see how to seat it properly, it can be a real treat.

You need to buy yourself a 7/8 (IIR) open/box end wrench, some loosener of your choice (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, whatever) and an O2 sensor. Jack it up and get under it and look for about the least convenient place to get at on the exhaust system. You'll find the O2 sensor sticking up there by the front cat. If you unplug it the box end of wrench will fit over the plug. A little hammer action and you should be good. I anti-seize the new one. This is from memory so it may not be correct but I'll bet I'm close!

The ones I've bought were 80-100 my cost. Usually I have a used one though. There was a thread a while back about whether this should be an OEM part or not. I don't know if it ever reached a conclusion.

Known good sensor (or a new one). Seem to be finicky about the route wire takes from sensor up under throttle body. Usually you can see the "clean" mark where the old path was. Some folks say they are finicky about torque. I just make them snug. Never used a torque wrench and haven't had a problem yet.

yep. Ebay kit all the way. I usually keep one on stock and a new new style tensioner. Have lots of used ones. I almost always replace them (even on non-interference). Crazy not to while you're in there. As folks say. They seem good now. But will they last another 100k? That's also why I replace perfectly fine water pumps.

Mike, Glad it all went well. When you get to it you might want to replace that other Oring on the back of the head on the pass side. Dave

Things can get ugly when this happens. I started a thread about one that I just did a week or so ago with some pics. Unfortunatley in the heat of the moment I forget to take pick of the crankshaft that needed welded, ground down, and the keyway fixed. But there are pics of the harmonic balancer, oil pump, whatever the cogged pulley that drives the timing belt is called. Also trashed the timing belt cover. Never did find any known pieces of the key. Someone had installed a new Harmonic Balancer probably after their first screwup. Here is the link to that thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100984

Where is Bellingham? I have one with a good RF (97 OBW). 50 bucks if you do the swapping. Left one was already sold/swapped. I'm near Pittsburgh.

I was looking for history on a WRX. I made an offer not knowing abotu the carfax. It needs a ton or work anyways. If I get the car I may sign up for the 10 pack or unlimited. If I do I'll try and assist other board members.

I bough the cheap Orange one (forget the brand) They go on sale at Sears and Advance for 50 bucks from time to time. You have to look up the code in a book. For another 25 bucks the next model up will tell you what the code means - very obtuse. I like the 50 dollar one because it'll fit in a jacket pocket. I have a fuller powered version for my laptop but I don't take it outside in the winter to read codes.

Bump. I need to know by about 10:15 this morning. Sorry for the impatience.

I could really use a carfax if someone has access I'd really appreciate it. PM me for the info please.

Yep. Been tied up with a 95 LSi and went to look at a WRX tonight (which would be my first). Trying to get to my antiques. Picked up a clutch kit, rear main seal, etc for the 71 bus today. I need to get another car in tomorrow to determine whether to fix it or part it (a VW). Then it'll probably be parting the 97 OBW unless I get this WRX.

I'd check vaccum lines first. The line that goes to a T almost under the aribox at the the throttle body on the passenger side that is a 1/2" or so hose that's hidden is a good place to start but often if it's not plugged in properly the car dies immediately. Then check all the little vacuum lines for cracking, etc. A knock sensor will cause it to be sluggish but I haven't had one cause what's happenning to you. Perhaps others have. Other things could be fuel filter. He's checking pressure at startup - not after it's been run a while. Even a catalytic converter. But often you can smell them being hot, sometimes they even glow red. Hopefully others will have some idea's for you.

Model and year? Which side? On the Legacy's (here) it's no big deal. They say you need a new rubber gasket when re-instlaling but folks here have used the old gasket - I get a new one. About 8-10 nuts, the wireing clip, and 3 hoses. Biggest issue is usually getting the 3 hoses out of the way enough and turning and tilting the unit to get it out. Never have but wouldn't want to have a hose fall between the tank and the body.

o.k. yet again I don't know where seatac is. But I've got me some radiators setting here that are good. Mostly Legacy's but a few Impreza's. If you're near South Western PA. Depending on how long the JY keeps things they could have pulled all the rad's when they were pulling cats last year when scrap was up.

Hey - due to emissions standards and such a lot of exhaust stuff is mandatorily covered longer than you'd think. Might be worth a call to the dealer. It's not a cat so I don't know what they may be able to do for sure.

That's wild. Usually they come apart before the resignator and usually at the flange before the cat before the resignator. I've seen those 3rd cats before as well always on 99's. Must not be anything in them. When cats were worth something those still weren't. Also both O2 sensors are before that third cat. I have some used resignators here. I very rarely need one. I just happen to have 3 complete exhausts here. Don't know if it would be worth buying a used one and having it shipped. Can't be as expensive as a cat.

Odds are good that I have a door. I have all 4 dark Blue ones from a 95 Sedan, the LR has a dent but power window still worked fine. I also will have all 4 doors from a 97 Outback in the standard green color. My favorite year of Suby. I just finished one last week.

If you were past the alarm I had some idea's. I don't know squat about their alarm systems or bypassing them.

Define won't start. Alarm going of? DOes it crank?

I got nailed by a non OEM thermostat for the first time last week. Heck - I've purchased cars with the thermostat in backwards. I don't even know if an OEM will fit in backwards - but aftermarkets sure do they are about half the length.

I use it when restoring antique's. FLoor pans and such. But it can make you "loopey". I did the pan on a 63 bug. All windows removed, both doors open, did it outside, 20" box fan on a milk crate beside me. Dumped it out, pushed it around, 10 minutes tops. When complete I had trouble standing up. I was definately buzzed.