davebugs

I would imagine no corrulation. That plate isn't filled with oil behind it. Atleast I don't believe it is.

I think I saw POR-15 in some of my air cooled VW catalogs and a few antique specialty tool catalogs. I just order it direct from the manufacturer in New Jersey but it's been a while. I'm attempt to look online they may have their own webpage. But I'd still think it's the baffle plate that's leaking. Use excellent ventilation when using the POR-15 - you can catch a buzz easily.

While I've found an excellent VW Diesel site (tdiclub.com) and here for Subaru's the best I found for Saturns is saturnfans.com. And it's not nearly as good. But there is some info there. I used to do Saturns as well but not any for the last year or so. Now it's just Subaru's and VW's. Never had your particular problem though.

I buy the kits all the time from "theimportexperts". Infact 2 kits last week. Never tried their WP's though. I did just installed my first "off brand" belt a MitsibOshi(?) on a 95 I did last week (non-interference). When you buy the kit the TB basically is free. I know this because I often order odds and ends idlers. And always had obtained the TB locally. Locally the A1 Cardone WP's have gone from 48 to 51 bucks in the last few weeks. But I have no experience with the WP's. Another member recently had issues with an Ebay TB kit - but it wasn't the folks that I use. I don't recall his issue but some searching should turn it up. Within the last month, probably the last few weeks.

Baffle plate leaking. Need to pull enigne or trans to fix. Mostly annoying and some burnt oil smell. You can search around here for "baffle plate" or "oil seperator platge" and see what a common issue it is.

That would be a Motive pressure bleeder. I would suggest the Subaru specific cap. Works like a dream when you have the specific threaded adapter rather than a universal one.

This has probably been covered but make SURE it's the oil pan. A baffle plate leak (very common) looks like an oil pan leak - especially when the pan is rusty. And you gotta pull the engine or trans to fix the baffle plate.

Behind the PS pump/ALternator on the block it will say EJ22 or EJ25. It would be real hard to do a decent job on the oil pan without engine removal. You may be able to do it by unbolting the engine mounts, dogbone, perhaps exhaust, perhaps other thigs as well, and liftiing it a bit to get to the back bolts. I'd just suck it up and take it out and check the baffle plate and probably do other routine maintenance. Odds are good that you have a 2.2. Very rare for someone on purpose to replace a 2.2 with a 2.5. A 1.8 I'd think you'd notice being under powered.

Gary, I installed a used harmonic balancer, key, crank bolt, oil pump, and splined crank cog (for lack of the proper term). It was really hosed. And their attempt at a repair was sub-standard. Wish I would have taken some pics. Some welding, 4" grinder, Dremel and key slot cutting with Dremel. Two of us with about a 3 foot of leverage with a screwdriver stuck in the flexplate. I doubt it's coming off. The new waterpump they had installed was leaking. I almost feel like trying to call the folks and letting them know the quality of work that was done. But I'm sure that would open a can or worms. I just hate to see people taken. They could be taking their current cars to the same place just to get screwed up by having routine maintenance done.

I now know what you mean. But have never seen one leak - that's why I was confused. I thought perhaps you were talking about the back of the passenger side cam and those 2 bolts are pretty abvious. And I've never had to have 2.2 heads done so I've never needed to reseal the part youi're talking about. Sorry I can't help.

I'll try attaching some pics. Forgot pics of the crank, keyway, etc. Never did really find a known part of the key. I had help (haven't really welder in years) with the whole process. Car ran. New pulley was toast as you will see in the pics. This car had issues. All caused by someone not knowing Subaru's. And my guess is the same folks trying to repair the damage. Engine was removed, baffle plate was leaking and figured it was easier to work on crank out of the car. First time I've pulled a Suby engine without removing the rad - just the fans. I live in the rust belt. It took 2 of us (not used to working together) an hour to get the engine out. When Skip helped my pull my first Suby engine (a VERY rusty car) it took considerably longer - he had a clue and I didn't. Total repair, TB, WP, idlers, Orings, oil pump reseal & Oring, VC gaskets, plugs, baffle plate and the little access plate resealed. You get the idea. Break for lunch, trip to auto parts for exhaust gaskets(can't believe I forgot them) we were done in within 6 hours of when he arrived. Very good time I'd say for 2 folks used to working alone. Shoot - forget how to attach pics loaded to my photo album (already done). I'll poke around a little again. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1356 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1353 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1354 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=151&pictureid=1355 o.k. I'll try and actually get them into the post now.

You're not making sense. Atleast I don't know what you're talking about. How about a pic from somewhere showing what you're talking about?

It just helps sometimes if we know where folks are at. Lots of little towns with the same name exist in several states. Then there are the great names like "tri-state area", "in the woods", "up the creek", whatever. Not meaningful at all. Folks here are very helpful. It helps to know where folks are at to offer assistance personally, etc. I've had pretty good luck with the struts from Advance. Can't recall the name but they come in a Grey Sleeve. I'm talking about on other makes of cars. I've never needed them (that I didn't already have) on a Suby.

I realize you're trying to be cute but I have no idea of where Morris is. Please update your profile with a meaningful location. That said I've had good luck with getting replacements for other off beat cars from Advance Auto. But since I don't know where you are at I don't know if you may have Advance's near you.

No sealer on the cam seals. But by the front cam caps when it comes time for the valve covers. When you got your Subaru HG's you should have asked for their latest procedure for head installation. Order of bolts, torque's, etc. It's a bit of a Mexican hat Dance. If you didn't get Suby HG's you're just kidding yourself anyways. It probably won't matter what procedure you follow. But it can be a learning experience for next time.

Good thing you checked the screws. The Orings usually seem deformed. Don't know if it's from use/age or if it gets dislodged when removing the cover. Just make sure the new one is Blue/Purple/whatever and not Black. If it's OEM you're good to go.

o.k. sounds like you're o.k. but mis-typed. You have an oil pump Oring and a WATER PUMP gasket - correct? That and a tube of ultra grey is all that you need. WP gasket gets NOTHING if it's OEM (rubber coated metal). Oil pump gets Oring and ultra grey(instead of a gasket). Just did another one this week. I may post pics next week. Worst screwed up crank, new harmonic balancer, cogged crank pulley, and chewed up oil pump that Iv'e personally torn apart. Permatex Ultra Grey is the only goo that you need for a Suby Engine. Anything from oil pan to corners by cam caps when doing HG's, oil pump, baffle plate, etc. It's relatively inexpensive and readily available. It may not be "exotic" but I haven't had any failures and I do believe it's an officially recommended equivalent. Don't forget to double check the oil pump screws for kicks (usually they are o.k. on 2.2's).

The Alternator belt is a tight one to get on. Sometimes I cheat when installing an engine and put it around the PS pump before I tighten down the pump. I have tried a longer belt and it's too long. I do get one 5mm (or whatever) shorter for the AC compressor. A stock replacement belt almost bottoms out on the tensioner. I just finished a 95 LSi today and had to walk the belt on the PS pump by turning it by the crank bolt(I have the rad fans out).

yep

Gee. I assumed he had the intelligence to ask here to get the real scoop. That's why I always start here and only go to the other places when I'm linked there or can't find what I need here. This seems to be more of a "mature" audience (and not just in age) about keeping reliable cars on the road than the other places. Every MB has their nitche and I think this has the best info and least abuse that I've experienced. YMMV. That's why I choose to spend my time here.

NAPA gets a gold star for being the only aftermarket place that had parking/Ebrake shoes. Someone here recommended them. Half the price of the dealer's "rebuild kit". No NAPA's close to me though.

Perhaps we're looking at this all wrong. The 2.2 is just too reliable. It's not that the 2.5's are wimpy. As long as we're setting rod knock and piston slap aside that is. A few 2.2's seem to have some piston slap but rod knock is very rare in what I run across in a 2.2. Rod bearings. I'd argue that they are often part of the fallout from HG issues and "cooking" the engine. But I don't truely know since when I buy them they are usually in need of repair and often don't know the history. I'll do HG's on a 2.5 if no rod knock and piston slap. Thus I usually 2.2 them.

I have good luck with Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads. They are about all I use on everything. Including the GF's 2006 Impreza. Rotors are a crap shoot. Most of the time the cheap ones seem to work. I doubt that the pricier ones are anything other than fancier labels on the same rotors. I just bought Raybestos warranted rotors for my van(also China). Supposed to be lifetime against cracking or warpage. I didn't have to buy the pads from them either. They were 30% more (some bean counter is just playing the #'s). But I use the van pretty exclusively for towing so I thought I'd give them a shot. Too soon to tell.

Who is Greg?

On my VW that are known to have strut bearing issues replacement is the only permanent fix. On them sometimes when the bearing gets rusty it starts to wear into the rubber so I replace the whole mounting assy. Never needed to replace the strut bearing on a Subaru. If is comes as part of the mounting kit (I forget) I'd probably do both sides. Otherwise you have well fatigued rubber on one side and stiff rubber on the other.