davebugs

What do you know? I always have the flywheel machined. My local auto parts does an excellent job. Capable of the "stepping" jobs as well if needed. I figure at the price of a clutch kit why wimp out on the flywheel. I see it as completing the job. I haven't had one with hairline cracks yet perhaps I've been lucky? Haven't had any issues in the last several years that I've been doing Suby's. And it's not the thing to do? These cars typically have 110-200k on them.

Push harder. While you were seperating the two, or having difficulty getting it re-installed you pulled EVERYTHING forward a bit. You need to jamb it back. Best done while tranny is supported and engine is supported.

A few notes. I've never had to remove the engine mounts - never even crossed my mind. Brings up thoghts of attaching the ATF lines to the Left head on some years automatics - not pleaseant when you install an engine and forget them. The dogbone is the thing that looks like a dogbone (go figure) that attaches right at the top front of the tranny bellhousing and it's lets say 6 inches long and attaches towards the firewall under the ignitor. 14mm bolt and nut. Unbolt it closest where the engine and tranny meet. No need to remove it. Just watch that you still don't jamb against it when raising the tranny. It's sounding like your tranny isn't lifting high enough. This dogbone could be stopping it. The other proposed option actually allows you to lower the angle of the engine rather than raise the tranny. Sometimes you have to "disconnect" and start over. Sucks but it happens.

Auto or stick? Tranny supported well and raised a bit? Dogbone disconnected? They wil lcome out with it in place but I've never been able to get an engine back in with it in place. Don't forget as you add weight to the car (from the engine) the angle changes slightly. May or may not be in your favor.

Gary, Based on what I see on 95-99 2.2 and 2.5's yes. I also ALWAYS get one for the aftermarket metal pumps that I put on. IIR 3.85 at the dealer. Dave

I'd put it all together. Part of that process (atleast for me) is making a few revolutions by hand to make sure things still line up. There will be resistance at spots, and spots that it will force the wrench "ahead". If you haven't done this before you may not be used to it. Either stuff is bent or not. The new components won't effect that at all. Why not try the route you're going?

Classic alternator symptoms on a Suby. Often when driving suddenly your maximum RPM's keep deminishing (because it isn't charging the battery). Shut it off and leave set a while if it's a good battery it'll start back up and you can head down the road again - for a while. Then the good battery looses it's charge again. Repeat the whole way home (I gave up and called a friend after 4 segments). Change fuel filter (figure it's running out of fuel), check fuel pump, check cats for blockage. Doesn't help. Install a new alternator and all is good. I've had this happen to me almost a half dozen times. Also sometimes the ABS and another light seem to come on in Suby's if the current is wimpy.

My solution is simple. The local exhaust bending place fixes these for 40 bucks. Almost what I have in parts especially when I need to buy those goofy clamps to mimic a flange. They cup off both pipes and weld a new piece in - maybe 6 inches. I do this after all work has been done on the car. Lets face it these joints are wimpy. Even if you fix it now within a few years the exact same problem is likely. On the rare occasions that I do just put a new donut in there (I'm working on 95-99's) Walker does make a slightly larger donut that I find works better than the one listed that is often too tight (although I always start with the listed donut to try). The generic hardware kits with springs are useless. If you'd like some factory springs and can wait a few days and pay for shipping plus a couple of bucks I can send you some (again off 95-99's). PM me. Dave

When I had issues with an Outback one time a Suby tech told me that it could be unplugged and that most of the wires plug into other places. I ended up fixing the problem(whatever it was). But he made it sound like most of the connectors had other homes.

I took a quick look at the pics. This could help others. Thanks for undertaking the documentation effort.

I don't worry about it. I used to try and save them but as soon as you try and clean the covers and the block to make a nice job of it it gets screwed up. It would be hard to get anything that thin to stick and stay in place in my opinion. Some folks here don't even run covers - but I always do. If you pull the covers on a car that has has someone in there (TB or WP job for instance) they already are missing. If someone has a good solution I'd love to hear it. But I don't worry about it.

Before I had a cement floor in the big garage something ate the same exact wire off 3 old VW's. The starter wire has a sheath(?) to protect it going over the transaxle. Apparently it's at the top of the munchie list - the covering/sheath. The rest of the 12 guage wire wasn't even eaten. Haven't found any other critter issues in those cars yet. They ate the wireing on a bug outside. I'm concerned about my personal cars, antiques, and the cars I fix and sell. I'd like to get rid of the little fuzzy guys.

Folks are gonna need to know the year, model, etc.

Search for "delayed tranny engagement fixed"' or similar here. I think it's up to 5 pages. May have the info that you need.

I've got major chipmunk issues. Cute but destructive. I put some of those outside rat chunks out yesterday - the green Tomcat ones. They are all gone and I just saw a couple of them playing around. The pellets usually they save for winter and by the time they eat it it doesn't kill them. I put out a few of those mouse trips with the little yellow paddle. They ate the wiring on a VW bug I have outside. One just ran out of my lower garage that has a 90 S10 w/35k on it. The lower garage is somewhat attached to the house (breezeway). The upper garage has 6 antique VW's in it. Along with whatever car(s) I'm working on. I've got no pets and the few neighbors that do have invisible fences or they are on a leash when they are outside. I'm not concerned about domestic's getting into it. What can I use? I need these critters GONE.

I don't believe so. INfact a 97 AUto is a bit of a weirdo. If you compare it to a 95,96,98,99 (IIR) it's a little longer where it extends into the bell housing.

It covers a hole with oil behind it. And it's plastic. That's why it leaks. That's all you need to know. You can investigate when you have it off. Not a whole lot behind it really. If I think of it I'm about to move an engine that has the baffle plate off. Lots of sludge in the engoine so I didn't use it. But I stole the baffle plate to replace one that was cracked. Really I don't see may cracked. Warped maybe, seal gone bad definately, cracked is rare.

I installed a similar pump. Makes noise(like it's running) every key cycle. Added 2 gal of gas (although there was nasty gas in there up to about the top of that baffle plate under the pump in the tank. Seems like perhaps I'm getting a litte coming into the filter now. I gotta wait for stuff to evaporate. I may swap out the filter to a known good used one since I have several on the shelf. WhenI sell a car typically I put a new fuel filter (and air, oil,coolant,etc.) in them. I was actually thinking of "primeing the pump". Bought some hose this morning. Funny thing is that I could have had this engine pulled quicker than trying to get it to run. But if I get it running I may not want to pull it. Still it's no worse odds than JY engine. But I'd really, really like to hear it and do a compression check. Yea - I know I could do a compression check but other than running some on either it hasn't been run in atleast 2 years. Hardly seems like the oil would be helping seal the rings properly.

I typically prefer used OEM to new aftermarket as well. "they don't just fit, they match" - you don't hear than one anymore. Also lenses should be replaced in pairs if you're going aftermarket. I should have a few of those lenses around but they would need shipped. Not new but servicable.

Sounding like the classic DOHC HG issue. But that's not what your engine is. But perhaps you're having the same problem. I'd try a cap first. Thats what controls what goes to the overflow bottle. I don't have much experience with your enigne. It may be a PITA to burp just liek the older 2.5's. Do a search here for "burping". If you don't get all the air out the remaining pocket will likely cause the same thing to happen again even if you have fixed the problem.

I'll recheck tomorrow. His snap-on scanner said something aboug a G something (G- relay?) under the console somewhere. I recall reading something about it - I think in a PDF someone posted about WRX ABS issues, or in another thread. I'll have to refind the info and read it closely now. When I've had tone rings (about the worst thing to fix - I don't) the ABS light comes on. The ABS light does work, but isn't on. He has already swapped another relay under the dash from a 97 Outback parts car that I have to try and fix the code 51 I believe. That's the last time we had talked. At one point we had pulled the ABS fuse today to confirm that it was something with ABS. So the first time he got the codes one of them could have been the pulled fuse.

Installed another pump from a 97 Legacy known good. (I had 2 different styles from 97's - perhaps some L's and some Outbacks?) I can hear and feel it run when key is cycled, added a couple gallons of gas (there was some in there when I changed pumps). But still really nothing up coming into the filter. I'll try again tomorrow. My patience is about up. Too much work just to hear an engine run. I almost might as well just yank it. No worse odds than a JY engine.

EVO - not many folks out of our litlte area know about Berkebile 2+2 products so you should say carb cleaner, clean brake, etc (after all they are all 2+2 products). Other than locally a lot of their stuff goes out of the country. An amazing amount (atleast it used to). Know how they got the name 2+2? They used to be a customer of mine.

I never add anything to them on 2.2's. Someone eluded to where the little black pieces (IIR) on the DOHC heads that typically already have some ultra-grey (or similar) on them. It's been a while but I don't think I did any sealant around them (but my memory isn't so good).

I was thinking I had missed something - two cam sensors. I panicked when I just resealed the front of a 99 2.2 that I had forgotten to get the cam Orings but it appears to not have them. A different setup over around the cam sensor and no place for an Oring. Thought maybe it had 2 cam sensors as well and I had missed that.