davebugs

I snapped a couple of those one time - not pleasant. The ones at the front of the engine are a different(less) torque than the other 6 per cam.

I use an impact tool to remove the baffle plate screws. One of the ones that you smack with a hammer. Sometimes you can bugger up a phillips head. I resently ordered (form the local bnody supply shop) one of those white disks to have "next time" after probably doing 10 HG jobs. I had trouble finding them. Most places stock yellow and Green I think, but not the white.

I agree completely. I believe the best work is done with the engine out of the car. I'm not trying to prove anything to anybody. I'm trying to do the best, most thorough job possible. Others will argue - but I just don't see how they can do as good of a job. Whatever works for them. I'll continue to pull them. In the end I don't believe that it takes any longer to pull the engine to do the work. Especially if you factor in possible issues from things not noticed or handled well (block prep comes immediately to mind). Gotta run.

All the oil pump and baffle plate screws that I have ever seen have been Phillips. Glad you got the heads cleaned up. Tell us again why you messed with the rear main? It's not part of thoroughness - it's asking for trouble most of the time.

I can usually get it accomplished with some scotchbrite. Someone here in the past recommended very fine paper on a piece of Plexiglas - sounds logical. Yet another reason to do this out of the car.

I run a very small bead around the groove in the baffle plate and oil pump. I always do a look around bolt holes. These are basically machined surfaces so not much is needed - it's not like you're really filling a gap. The smallest opening that you can cut on the tip. It's pretty stiff stuff when you're tryinig to squeeze it through such a small hole. I have another tip with a slightly larger opening I use for cam caps, oil pans, etc. I think folks usually use too much. Whether it causes problems or not I don't know. It does waste material and look ugly, and I can see how it could cause harm - I've just never seen it. I always let the ultra-grey set overnight. Infact when I pull an engine (or have one delivered) I do the baffle plate before bolting it to the engine stand to do the rest of the work. This also gives you the benefit to tilt the engine to assist with no oil coming out to be able to clean it better and have the engine surface dry when applying the baffle plate.

That pic looks like the Torque Converter bolt is missing(but it is hard to tell since the bolt top is shallow and flat with rounded edges). But you should still see the flexplate move. Did you remove the TC bolts and not reinstall them?

I know that you used to be able to substitute a Dayco for not much more money. And they were excited they were getting those Gates belts. I call them and get the idlers and NO belt. I have a standard order for my local auto parts store for NGK plugs, Timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, exhaust gaskets everytime I do a 2.2. Valve cover sets as needed. Then to the dealer for a WP gasket, cranks seal, cam seals, Orings(for 2.2's), and any other odd parts.

Welcome. Please update your state, not just your city. You'll find a lot of knowledge here. Don't be afraid to use the search function. You'll find that most here are interested in keeping pretty reliable cars on the road. If you're looking for performance stuff, stereo stuff, I think there are better sites.

For the money a cheap ODBII scanner is 50 bucks and will save you a ton of time on this project and in the future. But you'll only get codes if it actually tries to run. Not to mention no frustration with finding and plugging in those goofy wires.

WP gasket - dry. Yet another reason to use the OEM gasket. Orings oil or vaseline (vaseline for the oil pump). Outside of crank and cam seals I leave dry, assembly lube on the inside. All my personal preference. Other may tell you theirs.

Infact you just added another variable to the mix.

I'm not understanding what a "coil cover" is. Please describe it better or better yet post a pic. Change BOTH wires front to back. Search here on wasted spark ignition to understand more. A break in EITHER wire could show up as a code for both cylinders. Please confirm Suby wires and NGK plugs. This will help check out the electrical part of the fireing. I'm not an electrical expert at all but these are common sense steps to help diagnose. Others here may be able to help with if the spark has enough power, etc. that are more electrically inclined. Have you pulled the plugs from both cylinders to see if they are wet after cranking? To confirm that those cylinders are getting fuel? What are the actual code #'s

You'll sort it out. I wouldn't be shopping for another 2.5 just yet. If it weren't a JDM (since I have no experience with those). I'd be looking at the coil pack connector, the coil pack, spark plug wires, ignitor. If you don't have extra plug wires I'd swap them (front to back) to see if the issue is solved, or follows the wires. I hope we're talking about Suby wires and NGK Vgroove plugs? BKRE5-11's or whatever they are - I'm not in the garage. What brand of coil pack? What parts that I mentioned are known good from the old engine? What parts came with the unknown JDM?

Michele (with one L), Welcome. Lots of folks here have done JDM swaps. I have not. I either fix the 2.5 or more likely do the 2.2 swaps. I will say that when installed/reinstalled both 2.2 and 2.5's are often really noisey. Either JY engines or the same engine with new HG's. Marvel Mystery Oil and a good enthusiastic drive will usually quiet them a bit within 20 miles or so. I've heat cycled as part of burping 2.5's by letting them run for an hour - twice and still the "extra noise". The drive solves it. Folks here firmirliar with JDM's should help you out. If the wireing gets too bad I have a 97 OBW I plan on parting next week that runs/drives. Dave

Sometimes a few cement blocks, old rims, etc. help to stop from chasing the parts around the stall. Or trying to get all the angles while holding the part.

Permatex Ultra Grey You need to clarify the rocket cover gasket question.l You mean in the corners by the cam caps? If so - the same ultra grey The only tube of stuff you need is ultra-grey. No need for copper spray for the HG's - assuming the heads and engine are fine and you're using Suby gaskets. SHort of that I don't think anything will help you - including copper spray. No special oil for the bolts. Just engine oil (Not even assembly lube). If I need a little lube for Orings - depending on where I use petroleum jelly if in contact with oil/fuel. Generic KY if in contact with water (thermostat Oring). Others will chime in with corrections of their personal favorites.

I think you were lucky. Congratulations. I forget what engine you're working on. If you need some head bolts let me know. I have a 97 2.5 torn apart and the head bolts should be on the shelf. Unless someone is close or you prefer new. I'll be leaving in the morning for the weekend(gonna be great weather).

May not be fully into park.

I'm guessing that's why he got the wrong part. I've never needed to replace those Orings shown on that DOHC. But sure have done plenty on the 2.2 as the OP was trying to do. Wonder what he got for the oil pump Oring - they all seem to be the same? I do have issues from time to time with my local dealer's parts counter. But nothing like this.

A few possibilities: You bought the world's cheapest/crappiest belt (nothing should have stretched with all the more it's been used). Something isn't right. Like moving the tensioner to the left then tightening the 2 bolts. Or - sometimes there is some slack until you pull the pin and turn the engine over by hand (I do 2 full revolutions - but I'm paranoid) and recheck things.

I have a set of the originals (before everyone else copied them) called Xtractor. Problem is that they take a wrench/socket, not a rathet, breaker bar, or extension. Sears (and I believe Irwin, and probably Snap-on, etc.) now make the same product. I bought a Sears set (actually one set like up to 12mm and another set 13mm and up to like 17)? They will take a ratchet/breaker bar. I've only used the Sears set 3-4 times. On the Xtractor set they have replaced the 13mm one 3 times for me. I guess I'm hard on them. Anyways that head bolt has a lot or torgue naturally, then there have been recent discussions here about rust, etc on the bolts. It's really gonna be a problem. I wish you well.

Excellent. They are very skinny. They are the only Orings that I know of that come 2 to a pack and near that size for a Suby. WOnder what you got the first time?

Dye to add to your oil, a black light, and goofy glasses. The conbination or the black light and the yellow safety glasses makes the oil glow flourescent green. IIR Advance had cheap kits for oil. I was looking for a coolant kit and ended up buying a kit for like 100 bucks elsewhere for AC, coolant, and oil/trans fluid. I used the last of my trace dye yesterday for oil. It's like 8 bucks for an ounce at Advance and depending on teh brand of dye it tale 1/2 to 1 oz. Sure can save a lot of time and speculation.

Here's a thought. I finally broke down and bought one of those trace sets to deal with a 99 Forester. I bought the complete kit. But IIR kits to do one thing (lets say oil, or coolant) were like 20 bucks. That'll help tell you whether it's new oil or old oil.