davebugs

Most of that stuff isn't sprayable without special equipment. They put undercoating in cans (thick gooey stuff) but I haven't seen the bedliner in spray cans yet. I'm probably gonna use bedliner on my rusty car hauler trailer this summer. Should make the diamond plate a lot less slippy than when it was painted and wear well. Shouldn't be any hotter in the sun than the black paint.

It's a whole multiple step procedure. Look at and print out the appropriate Endwrench article. I actually have a template with ABCDE, etc that I lay on the floor. I also try and have as few of pieces as possible between the 12 point socket and the torque wrench. Infact I may buy a deep 12 point specifically for this purpose. But please - look for the correct procedure.

I assume you're in Albany NY? Thats probably just crud form the plug wires sealing poorly in the holes.

Actually I was at Pep Boys one day and they had generic spark plug sockets and I bought one just to sacrifice next time this happened to me. Hated to take a chance at ruining a good S-K swivel spark plug socket. One time on a Suby I had to reinstall the plug a few times on Cyl #4 on a DOHC due to the rubber problem. Not a whole lotta fun. But yea - as frustration mounts taking a chance on removing the bushing from your existing socket (if you can't find a cheap one) may work. I used a deep well impact socket last time I had this issue. I figured they were less restrictive in the middle of the socket to get over the rubber on the plug. Anyway you look at it it's not a pleasant job. And I doubt the plug wire was fitting well. Never did hear if he looked at the plug wire - he may be needing one of them as well.

Hose pliers. Sometimes using a standard deep socket. I'd recommend AGAINST removing the rubber from your socket and using it. I don't think it would ever be "tight" again. Not a whole lot to scratch to worry about that I can think of. Only perhaps a lip where the rubber rings are in the valve covers. It's gonna be stuck from heat and so on. If the car was missing - you've found the problem. Did they alter the pulg wire? You may even try cutting it with a razor knife?

Please examine the end of the plug wire. Compare it to another plug wire. Make sure nothing is stuck onto the spark plug that you can't see (like from the spark plug boot). I've had this happen to me on other cars. And occasionally have had the problem when installing new plugs that the rubber bushing from the socket sometimes stays on the spark plug and I can't get the wire on. LL I was typing at the same time Gloyale was. Also the non-fouler - while it wouldn't be good news I'd be very willing to bet isn't your problem.

Personally in that era of Subaru I use the Advance Auto universal anti-freeze. Kinda looks line Mountain Dew. Of course I'm always changing out the fluid as part of a HG or engine swap. On very new Suby's I use the expensive dealer stuff - but I don't work on them much.

Don't forget to have the new heads checked. Or at the absolute minumum check them yourself for warpage.

Bummer. Doesn't matter how well things are lined up after the valves are bent. BTW if you thought it was fun removing the heads wait until you're doing the torque sequence for the re-install. But those buggers are tight. Make sure you lube up the head bolts very well. Some always still creak for me when tightening them. If the engine is on a stand a friend to hold the stand helps a lot.

There are several folks selling the PCI kits. I happed to deal with theimportexperts. They are both the double bearing idlers. I think there are several with the same pricing. Typically GMB bearings.

That might be worth a trip to Charlotte. A link would have been nice. It'd be gone by the time I could get there.

Yea - I love that pic of Skip's engine. The Ebay kits ship nothing but doubles, so do the dealer kits but they are pricey. My local parts place the kit somes with doubles. But they aren't cost effective. Ebay with the PCI kits with the GMB bearings has been working for me as the best value. Compared to no replacement, dealer prices, or chain or local parts store's kits. I use and stick with "theimportexperts" because I like to build relationships. Others appear to sell the same kits at the same prices. I just stick with these guys even though they are at the other side of the country (as all these guys seem to be). On the rare occasion that I have a problem I'd like to think that I get better service.

I'd look again. Most kits come with double bearing idlers. It must be an incredibly generic set. I'd take it back and get an Ebay kit. I assume you're doing crank/cam seals, WP, oil pump screws, spark plugs, etc - the usual stuff? Comcast issues today - my first response was lost.

I'm with Rooster2 on this. Never used the trans tune. Love the regular seafoam for O2 sensors on Suby's, for sludge issues on VW 2.0's, etc. But I think of it as a detergent and as such want to dain it ALL out. Which you really can't do well on a tranny.

I got heads. Not that cheap but known good. I'd need to tear an engine down to get them. Unless you want 97/98 DOHC heads w/bent valves due to an idler failure - I have them on the shelf. I think they are 97 (from memory) because they have the shims to adjsut the valves). PM me if interested. I have a set of 2.5 DOHC form an engine with bearing issues. And a set of 2.5 SOHC heads(Forester) from an engine with bearing issues. Both engines are complete at the present time. Both have around 150k on them.

Plugs. Seperator will be metal - but I still reseal them. Tensioner? AT 100k I don't see it an mandatory. But be very careful compressing the new style tensioners. I never buy the whole Subaru kit so I don't know what comes in it. I'd imagine still check/reseal/tighten screws on oil pump?

Tracy, I wondered how you were making out as I was moving parts around the garage over the weekend and threw out a pile of timing belts. Yes - you were lucky. Glad we were able to figure out what you really needed and that you could get it back on the road without a major repair bill. Lucky, I'm not a lottery player - but you should consider it. Happy to help.

You set off the alarm. Hit the reset button under the dash. Subaru safety feature/alarm. Let them start and drive the car - but blink the 4ways SLOWLY. I'd actually like to hear the official reason why they use this method.

I've seen these on Foresters. Don't know if they are really needed. GREAT PRICE on the engine. Hope its a good one. Doing HG's while it's out?

I don't believe so. If you look at the wiring harness plugs. The 97 has 3, the newer engine has 2. I'm talking where the engine/trans meet on the passenger side. Don't know if intakes will swap - or that will be enough to make it work. You're still better off doing the 2.2 I believe. Look at how many wiring harness plugs there are. Or someone with better knowledge will confirm/deny/comment. You may get into a discussion about cam sensors/cam pulleys, ECU, etc.

There are several pieces of heat shield just on the front Ypipe. 5 come to mind immediately. If make a trip for each - neither you or the garage will be happy.

Here's my thread about similar dirty fluid from last year including pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87092&highlight=fluid I still have these old samples laying around. I spent quality time with the Wolf's Head engineer to make sure that the Universal Synthetic ATF met the specs for this car and felt comfortable that it did. If you need his contact info PM me. I've taken to checking the fluid level, and draining it, measuring it, and adding the same amount back every other oil change. The color is definately improving.

If you're gonna be relatively quick about it. Loosen the gas cap(don't really know if it helps). Put a rag underneath the hoses and one over top. There will still be plenty of pressure. Doesn't take long at all and not very difficult. Depending on your living/garage situation you may want to make sure that you do it outside.

Fuel filter first. I don't work on that new of Suby's but it's probably in the same place. Cheap and easy to do, very accessable. Just remember there is pressure in those lines.

You've been pointed to the endwrench articles. I told you to use hash marks - not dots, arrows, and such in a different thread. If you lined up the marks as endwrench SHOWS and you've been told you'll be fine. If you didn't line up the marks - what else can we tell you? Apparently we're not getting through. I'm a bit dense myself at times.