davebugs

I keep cheap white spray paint to mark strut and bolt locations if I need to undo the strut bolts. I usually seperate it at the balljoint. As I'm in the rustbelt if I ruin the BJ no biggie - chances are the boot was ripped or wimpy anyways.

That's where the GF's was leaking on both sides. The Lucas fixed hers - YMMV. FYI I called the dealer she works with. They actually recommended used. Said a lot of the reman's they installed leaked. I thought the Lucas was worth a shot. Lasted roughly 2 years and another 100k (total 240k on the original rack) until car was totalled. It's less than 10 bucks. Worst that can happen is that it continues to leak. If you put ATF additive in it I don't know what that would do. I don't know if it has the same detergent level, etc. If it's cold bring the Lucas in the house overnight before using it. It is about the same consistency as the ATF additive.

Great to know. I recently swapped a throttle body because I had stolen the TPS from the intake that I needed to use and didn't know how to reset the TPS if I just replaced it.

For some reason a common issue on Subaru's - more than any other car I'v ever seen. I save some of these and other folks probably do as well. Or you might consider new? I have some used ones I'd consider selling. I've never sold any before - usually I use them myself on other cars. I believe both of th eones I currently have the rubber boot is still in place as well.

This is often a brake caliper hanging up. Add that to the list of non-engine things to check out. Infact I'd put it at the top of the list if the engine is sounding fine and no CEL.

The rears never seem to get much wear. Calipers usually get stuck out. They usually have a lot of pressure pushing them out. But not much pressure when they retract. Infact on my old VW's I've had the rubber hose deteriorate to the point that it causes this issue. I'd pull the bracket that the pads ride in as was suggested. File the bracket (after removing the stainless clips) to remove rust, reinstall clips. Then see how well the pads ride on those clips. Even new pads often need a little work with the file to get them to move easy enough. I add some anti-seize as well. Going into this I'd think the caliper wouldn't be the most likely issue. You may be able to get an idea if it's totally frozen by trying to compress it.

Wondered what was up with the color/manufacturers. Only time I haven't changed the oil her local dealer was running a promo and she had oil & filter done there for less than 20 bucks. I think they were looking for late model tradins. They installed a Blue filter but my local dealer has the Black ones. Perhaps I'll stock up on some. One Blue filter in 72k is tollerable. I haven't switched to the Advance Powerflo's(Purolator) for her car like I run in my cars (except the VW TDI) and the cars I fix and sell. When Blue is all that's available I see Wix in her future. Looking at the powerflow the bypass valve looks radically different,

The GF's 2006 Impreza 2.5 NA I had to buy another cap style filter remover. It's a weird size. The one I bought is stamped steel(as opposed to pot metal/aluminum and plastic like some that I have) and actually can do 2 sizes. The one on her Suby and one a little smaller. Now I have 6 cap type's that take a ratchet or extansion, 2 normal band types, and a few of those band types that tape a socket extension. Very close to the exhaust. Not just a bit of a burn hazard but I always get a little oil on the exhaust. I took a new filter to the parts store to get the correct size. It's still the worst fitting one that I have.

Usually the pumps leak. But sometimes the rack leaks. I've had tremendous success with Lucas PS fix stuff. Including on the GF's old 96 Impreza. Was leaking badly, boots missing, etc. Added Lucas IIR at about 140k. When it was totalled w/240k I had still never repaired anything and never had to add fluid again.

After you undo the clamps sometimes a pic and PB blaster helps. What halps an awful lot is hose pliers - come in a set. Harbor frieght has a cheap set of 3. Sunnex(sp?) has a better set that are more angled but IIR they are like 60 bucks and the haror freight ones (with less angle) were under 20 - maybe 15 bucks. Disconnect the hoses before unbolting the filter. There is a rubber gasket between the holder and filter is it hasn't deteriorated too badly. Simple quick job. Since it's under pressure I lay a rag over the hose before pulling it apart. It will spill gas and smell no matter what so as has already been suggested do it outside.

I use nail polish for a buck at Wal-Mart. Bottle seals well, has a nice little brush, doesn't dry out, dries fast, and on cam sprockets and stuff you can still see the original hash mark. And it even smells good.

If that's what it is they are a bit pricey. I have a used one that I'd sell but perhaps someone closer to you has one. I can't tell since I haven't a clue where you live.

I bought the whole 100 dollar kit able to test all the fluids to sometimes help assess HG issues on the 2.5 SOHC's. It'll do oil, tranny, coolant, and AC. Comes in a nice case with the spiffy glasses, IIR a flashlight and a 110 light. Was a quality new intake gasket used? Most guys have replacing these 4.3 intake down to a science like the 3100's. In my dad's I put in the Advance universal stuff that looks like Mountain Dew. BTW dad's truck is a 98 GMC Sonoma. My local rad shop says to NOT use the original stuff, and that there are many issues and law suits about it.

I'm running into this already in my area - a bit of a shortage. And I didn't do THAT many swaps in the last year or so. And then the JY's and I are bidding on the same car at some of the salvage auctions. Either way I end up paying more. I just prefer to hear them run and do a compression check if possible.

I've got some used cam sensors if you're interested. I'd imagine others would as well. Crank sensors are a little harder to come by - a lot of the time they are gaulded in there pretty good and break when trying to remove them. Certainly easy enough to change.

The good news is that every time you remove the engine from the same car it seems to go quicker. I did a 99 Forester last year - needed to pull the engine(s) 4 times! So after all the time and $ in parts, getting heads checked, maintenance items(TB, Idlers, etc) if it doesn't work out it'll be easier to pull next time.

Yep. I'd rather "chance" an unknown 2.2 than a known 2.5 with issues. You can bet it wasn't the first time overheated. Now you need to worry about heads, block, rod knock(not like they have bulletproof bearings to begin with). You should really try to "smarten them up a bit" about the 2.2. I think you'd be doing them and yourself a favor rather than going down the road with this 2.5. To say nothing of the quality of life going forward. I fix some 2.5's and swap in 2.2's. In this case I'd never even consider saving this engine.

To the OP. Aside from the very good suggestions about your project. May I suggest that you change the color of your text. I believe it gets my vote for the hardest to read post since the upgrade. And Welcome. There is a lot of excellent information and members here.

I may have most of what you need. I'm thinking of parting a 97 OBW with new OEM headlights and a bunch of other good parts. Also a Silver hood, Blue fenders, etc. And you're not that far away.

Bump. I usually have enough used ones laying around that I've never purchased a cam or crank sensor. Just knock sensors (which there are many #'s of).

The clamps are your friend. And will stop the belt from jumping on the teeth of the cams and crank. I do the passenger side last (which isn't under any load). If it does move the drivers side or the crank the clamps still hold the belt inplace and you'll be o.k. The clamps don't stop the belt from moving. It just stops the belt from moving and becoming mis-aligned to the sprocket(s). When you are all done, and turn the crank if necessary a little bit - all 3 should be ligned up. Install the last idler, pull the tensioner pin - you're all done. Remove the clamps. I turn it over atleast twice by hand to make sure the marks still lign up.

It won't keep the belt from moving but it will keep the belt pegged to the mark on the cams & crank. So that when it moves back in place it'll be o.k.

Always hash marks. Not arrows or dots. The pics I sent you aren't totally alignes (no TB inspalled) but you can see what to lign up. If I were better at posting pics I would have just posted them in this thread.

Look for endwrench links her eon how to do a TB change. You'll have an email in a few minutes. You go be the hash mark at the BACK of the crank.

PM me an email. The GF is getting something to eat. I can send you a pic of the clamps that I use.