davebugs

If it hasn't had the HG's done with those miles you're on borrowed time. If HGs aren't the problem already you're certainly nudging them to be the problem. Most Suby's I do have 110 to 185k on them when the HG's go. Excellent burping instructions here. I have the best luck with the front of the car slightly raised especially on the side with the rad cap - think floorjack. ALWAYS fill through the top rad hose before topping off rad. I'd be getting 'emotionally prepared' for the HG job.

FYI the last 97 OBW I bought had a bad pump. Had fluid, etc. Didn't make any noise, just wasn't pumping. It's still here but I didn't dissect it to see what the problem was. Car has 185k.

I have posted here before that I usually 'rent' the front end service kit from Advance (Not the balljoint kit). There is a tie rod puller (or something - small - 2 permanent fingers) that I use for the lower balljoint if necessary (it doesn't come off with nut off, beating LCA with a sledge a few times. Sometimes you gotta grind just a little to be able to get it onto the LCA at the seam. Dave

I have the tool for the harmonic balancer. But I'd like to identify this hole for possible use. I don't recall seeing it. Guess I'll have to look over some parts engines today. I suppose the same on 2.5's as 2.2's?

GF is digging the Bosch Icons I put on her 2006 Impreza last summer. I used to ru nnothing but Anco winters - but they turned to crap years ago. I think there are only a few manufacturers of wipers left. Just different brand names - I figured that is what happened to the previousely trusty Anco's. Icons were a bit pricey - like almost 20 bucks each. Dave

That's exactly what I usually do on SOHC's. On the DOHC 2.5's I seem to have no real set pattern but try this approach first. The last one I did the idler before the crank was installed last. Whatever works.

I do a decent amount of VW 2.0's and they are pretty easy. But I haven't found a good way to stop the parts that need aligned from moving on the VW. You need to remove the RF wheel. I've needed several Saturn timing chains done and have always farmed that work out. I can tell you from scrapping those engines that it can't be a fun job. Start by removing RF top engine mount after supporting the engine. And an expensive kit with the chain, guides, tensioner, sprockets, etc. Another thing about the chains. They do last a very long time. But they are expensinve to replace parts and labor. A positive about the chains is that usually they make noise before breaking. Unlike a belt. Dave

Hope the link is working. It's too big to send without hacking it up. Dave

Try this link: http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/subaru/2000-subaru-legacy-service-manual-pdf.html

Someone shared a 2000 Legacy FSM with me. PM me an address and I'll see if it will send. The endwrench articles(s) are just as good or better as far as procedure. Dave

It's just a PITA - especially the DOHC's. I've never done a DOHC in the car infact. They usually have an additional problem (seperator plate leaking, HG, etc.) so I yank them and do everything. And no - based on what I see if the tensioner fails the engine is toast (assuming an interference engine). Don't know whay they design them so tight. But if you think about it the engineers do lots of stupid things since they have the correct tools and easy access when things are originally manufactured. It's easy to build things, more difficult to fix/maintain later. Some other cars aren't nearly as bad with the belt install and tightening. Dave

I don't see a good compromise for this. I had a tool made to hold the harmonic balancer. It has about a 2' handle and I use a 2' breaker bar with the socket for the bolt. I get it as tight as I can - never heard of a bolt breaking. But have heard of and witnessed them coming loose and the damage done. Especially if you don't have a tool to remove the bolt if you're doing this in the car I find the hitting the starter trick to work well. I place part of an old TB under the handle of the breaker bar where it hits the body over by the battery. One of my snap-on breaker bars only hits by about 1/4" but that's enough. Takes 2 though - one to hit the key, one to watch. I haven't seen what I consider an acceptable workaround to having the right tool for this. The only 2 tools I've had made for working on Suby's are tools to hold the harmonic balancer/crank pulley on 2.2 and 2.5's. Putting that much leverage on the bolt with all the slop in the engine, clutch, tranny you're not gonna get it tight - in my opinion. You won't have enough 'throw'. Just my opinion. Dave

I always get a Suby WP gasket. I like the rubber covered metal one much better than the cardboard ones that come with aftermarket WP's. I'd pick one of them up - I think 3 bucks.

Hopefully someone who has run them will chime in. And I'm sure someone here can point to a tire size comparison site. But you realize what the 70/75 thing is? It's called the aspect ratio. It basically means that the sidewall is 70% the size of the tread - or in this case 75% the size of the tread. So it'll be less than 10% wider I'm sure someone out there works at a tire shop. But I'm often amazed at the folks that don't realize what this number actually means. If I'm incorrect someone please correct me(like I have to ask). Dave

Wow - old thread. Wonder if he ever got this done. And if it was a old Beetle or New Beetle? I'm having troubles picturing a 2.5 in an air-cooled Beetle in the traditional place. I had done the Corvair engine a few times years ago. Haven't messed with a New Beetle yet.

I'll send a PM

FYI timing belts from theimportexperts. I ordered a kit last week(friday). They stated that the timing belt (the generic one if you don't upgrage) had been Chinese and as of Feb 1st were not going to be Chinese. FWIW - I always get the Dayco belt locally anyways. But thought it was worth mentioning. Don't know if all PCI kits will make the same change or not. Dave

Yea but HG's piston slap(harmless) and rod knock (not so harmless) are about the only things to worry about. The second HG will be easier to do then the first. By the time you get to the third you'll be pretty good at it. Lately I've been doing them before they leak - less chance of warping the heads. I pull the engine, reseal it (including Hg's on 2.5's), complete TB kit, re-install. Good for another 100k.

I don't know if it will ever be cleared up. First internal leak, then external leak - wonder what's next - perhaps burning coolant/smoking? Anyway remember this simple math. Subaru's have twice as many head gaskets as any other 4 cylinder that I know of. So mathematically that would double their chance of HG issues. Dave

If you want a tool to hold the cam pulley while tightening I bought the Lisle tool and use it with some success. I really think it's defective in that I can't really stop the adjustment by tightening the 2 allen set screws. Would have been too easy if the tools I had made for 2.2 and 2.5 harmonic balancers would have worked. But I always have the cam sprockets installed before installing the TB. I had an updated tool made for the 2.5 harmonic balancer and will probably be having an updated design for the 2.2 made soon. I have a retired welder make them. Usually we just swap some work. But I can probably get them made for about 50 bucks plus shipping if I had to guess. If anyone may want one PM me and I'll send you a pic of my 2.5 tool and my prototype 2.2 tool. Or if anyone has a better source let me know. I may see about havng him make me a cam pulley tool as well. Dave

GG, If you need a tensioner let me know. I usually have several gently used ones around. I also usually keep a new one piece around, and a new bearing for what I call the 'pencil' style around. But I'd have to check. I should have a kit hitting here today but it'll be for the old 'pencil' style. BTW I have purchased the one piece tensioners from the same Ebay folks and it actually got here quicker - was shipped outta New York or something. You could probably have a new one shipped overnight and still save serious money versus the local parts place. Dave

GG, Not sure how you're doing it but I have them tight before installing the belt. I use 3 of those pliers/clamps - one on the crank (with a piece of old TB on the bottom so as to be easy on the splines), and one on each cam pulley. Line up the lines on the belt with the appropriate notches and install the clamps. This will stop the belt from jumping. You don't care if they move a little since the belt will stay matched up when things tighten up later. FYI on 2.2's particularly I usually add that bottom idler last to tighten up the belt. Then pull the pin on the tensioner. Sometimes on 2.5's it seems like a lot of times I put the one immediately before the crank on last. I'm hoping to develop a firm pattern but sometimes each of them seem to have their own personality. Dave

Year, model, Where are you at? If it's PA we're somewhat close and I'm parting out a 97 Legacy now.

GG, Thanks. Next one i'll try the 2.2 swap and see what happens rather than using up the 99 2.5 that I have. I like to keep 2.5's for the GT's if possible. Dave

Didn't realize we were talking about removal. A pic (a cheapie that's a favorite - the new Craftsman's the handle just slides off). Sometimes as has been stated here a thin bladed regular screwdriver. Basically gently tap it in then typically grab the handle and push the handle up which forces the bottom of the seal out. Usually enough to be able to get the pic in there easier or do the same screwdriver thing on the other side preferably with another screwdriver. I always put assembly lube on the inside and on the cam/crank shaft. Dave