davebugs

I'm telling ya. Go buy 3 of those plier type clamps. 2 can be on the small side (for the cams) and a larger one for the splined crank pulley - mine are all the same size. I cut a piece of old TB to put on the bottom even thought the clamp is plastic. If it's a 95 2.2 it's non interference so no need to worry about re-aligning things up. But yes - traditionally the drivers side is under load and prone to spin when doing TB jobs. That's why I do the passenger side last - and you have the extra play on that side from not having that lowest idler installed yet.

That lower idler is the key for me on a SOHC - I may have been the one who recommended it. On the 2.5's I don't have a set approach - they arent' nearly as pleasant. My other trick is to use those plier type clamps to keep the TB on the cam pulleys and the crank. I do them outta the car thought. I may be able to post a pic later today. I'm finishing one up this afternoon/evening. Also I have another harmonic balancer tool being made. I'll have to check but I may be able to sell sturdy tools for the harmonic balancers for like 50 bucks. I think the last one cost me like 45 and don't know the price of steel lately. The 2.2's and early 2.5's take one size and later 2.5's take another size. The 2.5 tool is excellent, I have the second version of the 2.2 tool being made now. Not rocket science - just beyond my abilities and equipment.

A one year bit of a nightmare. I may have a thread here about my recent experience - but it may have been while the site was having issues. They seem to be really prone to bearing failure. Last one I did took 3 engines to get a good one. I also had someone show up here last week with one with 80k that had pretty decent bearing noise - not rod knock - but bearing noise. A lot of folks already avoid 99 OB's due to the kinda rare auto tranny's. This Forester you can't do a 2.2 swap on - the electronics don't line up. Two plugs where the 2.2's have 3, etc. Happy hunting. I have a fella locally who contacted me who thinks he removed a good one fro someone's Forester because the customer had run it hot. If you do get an engine might as well do the HG's while it's out. Those 2.5 SOHC's leak externally typically on the drivers side. Good luck.

Excellent collection of links. I also used to use a link to a comcast.net writeup.

Did you follow a good precedure (like the Endwrench procedure)? Make sure you used the correct mark on the crank pulley(one in the back). Everything plugged in (I'm thinking crank and cam sensors).

I believe Subaru360 is north of town but I don't know if he works on other folks cars. It might help to know what you're thinking needs done.

I ran into similar bolts on a Saturn steering column. I used a hack saw and dremel to cut a slot and used a screwdriver to back them put. Then I re-used them.

99's are a poor year as far as easy options. I've had unpleasant experiences with the engine - bearing troubles mostly. Had another one here this past sunday. 80k and bearings sounding bad. I think the tranny is like the OB - kinda rare as well.

Used the kit tonight for a 95 2.2 - all GMB bearings. Some in a GNB box, some in a PCI box, all say GMB on them.

If it's been 2 months I'm guessing he got it burped. Did he check the heads? If they were out of spec then new gaskets could be leaking. You can also check the thermostat but assuming it wasn't replaced I'd have a bit of a hard time thinking it's your problem now. Although they do have to fail at some point. Is it blowing it out the overflow or just the gauge is getting hot? Coolant smelling funny?

The last Ebay new tensioner I purchased was from theimportexperts and it was NTN. Seemed like a decent part. Their bearings usually are GMB. Actually I haven't opened the latest box from them but that's what they have been shipping.

What Nipper said. It will act like a broken swaybar on one side. ( I think I can see the next question coming).

Look for it visually broken - it's just heavy plastic. There are some rubber inserts IIR. You may want to check them for wear. I don't bother saving these when I part out a car. Recently I had to buy one for the rear - 45 bucks. I saved one off the last parts car!

Don't understand the question - a pic would help. Usually everything you need is on the engine. They get lazy and cut throttle cables, heater hoses, IAC hoses, etc. I've never had a problem with wireing harness.

Bad news - I'm not using this 97 2.2. But the answer would still be nice. After pressure washing I removed the baffle plate to reseal before placing the engine on the stand. Sludge, tremendous sludge. Donor car had a bad tranny. There was some noise at the back of the engine but I figured it was the tranny pump. This engine sounded good, compression was good all the way around, but I won't put it in a car to sell. Bummer - now I'm held up until I locate an engine. Preferably a 95 2.2 atuo (obviousely).

Last chance at finding someone who has just done the replacement without worrying about the canister. I'm leaning towards just installing the 2.2 as it is (expects the canister to be in the rear of the car). I got to looking at an intake off a 96 here but I've stolen the TPS, hoses, EGR, etc. I could combine 3 intakes (the original 96 2.5 throttle body, the 96 Impreza intake with the canister plumbing, and most hoses from the donor engine and the 96 2.5). Getting awful messy. I already gotta reseal the engine - everything but HG's and intake, TB and components, WP, etc. I'd love to hear that someone just installed one of these, didn't worry about the canister not being there, and all was well. I myself may have actually done it - I just can't remember. Talk about annoying!

I pay around 120 for the pair to have the heads resurfaced, checked for cracks, and cleaned. No actual valve or stem work. Sometimes 100, sometimes 150. I do have good (not overheated) heads here - I started a thread yesterday. I just removed the intake. Engine had bad bearings. Coolant looked good, rad was full, overflow looked decent, 133k one owner. I'd be willing to sell "uncooked" heads. PM me if interested. Long block is now on a furniture dolly and not buried yet. I may be able to pull the heads tonight if you're interested. I'm concentrating on the 2.2 swap right now.

If the new Ypipe is still loose mate it up to the old one to give you a better idea of the hole alignment. The exh manifold bolts (and nuts) are a bit pricey. But the studs I think are standard - if you take one into a parts store they may have them. Those coated nuts that are expensive I have only found at Subaru. But they seem to work well for the exhaust, motor mounts, and eng to trans nuts - they don't seem to corrode.

Possible. But you'd need the vin from the car the engine came out of to do that.

BTW I'd assume that you need to add the clutch kit/flywheel resurface to the JDM price. Also pretty much anytime I have a 2.5 out of the car I do HG's - they are just a ticking timebomb as far as I'm concerned.

Miles? I've never done a JDM so I don't know about their HG issues. I'd try to find someone on this site to do the work. That price for TB, HG, etc and clutch seems a bit high. Like 500-1000-1,500 high off the top of my head. I usually figure about 1,500 for that job in parts and labor (mind you I don't work on other peoples stuff).

I use assembly lube on the inside. And try to leave the outside dry if possible. Perhaps others will confirm this or have other opinions.

Generally I believe the interference are the new style tensioner. Atleast in my experience the new tensioners on the 2.2's seem to be showing up on engines just around the time they went interference. Don't know if they are officially linked or not. I have a thread about canister plumbing to help determine if I'm gonna use this 97 2.2 in my current swap. I don't have the TB covers off it yet. I expect it to be new style tensioner. If it is and the old "pencil" style tensioner bolts up I'll probably try it. I almost always have the engines out that makes it all easier. And an overheating engine would be a 2.5 and if overheating (HG's) are the only issue much more $ to gamble on if the old style tensioner doesn't work. I'm tied up (she's about out of the shower) for the weekend. If any of you folks with a research bug wanna try and find out if both tensioners excert the same force I'd appreciate that research.

GG, Thanks for the effort. I will look for the thread you originated, and the code that you reported. I was looking today. It looks like I could actually mimic the current setup by swapping a Solenoid under #3 intake and the throttle body from the 96 2.5 onto the 97 2.2 and running a few hoses inplace of the metal lines on the 2.5 intake that go up to the canister. Don't know how big of a pain it will be (old hoses and all). But I'm sure it'd be a lot easier with the engines out of the car. I'd like to just put it in as is but I'm afraid of a code. Have a safe trip. Thanks for the input. Dave

gg, Would you be willing to read the codes to see if we can tell? Hopefully the EGR and Canister would have different codes - anyone know? FYI I should have a few complete 2.2 intakes w/EGR here if you're interested or head up this way. I need to pull them from parts engines with HG or bearing issues. Guess I may have to be the guinea pig if no-one else chimes in. Dave