davebugs

Slave cylinder if it's not the floor mat. Other choices are master cylinder. Worst case it the 2 little clips that hold the clutch fork to the TO bearing. Cheap but hard to get to (gotta pull engine or trnas). Miles? Last clutch job?

Some IAC's are noisy - was it noisy before? Any CEL's Just guessing/asking.

No but I'm about due to get more. Both of my old cans are about empty - it's amazing how long it lasts. I know they now make a higher temperature one that has a bit of a bronze tint that I was thinking about getting for the glow plugs on diesel cars. Don't know about a zinc one though. I'd look at permatex.com or something, Google zink anti-seize, whatever. You thinking zinc plays well with steel and aluminum? Link to permatex about nickel product: http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Nickel_Anti-Seize_Lubricant.htm

I know nothing of Brats but have similar issues with my VW onroad dune buggy with the front end. If I can't find any worn out shocks for the front I get new cheapies and drill a pin hole in them so there is no pressure in them. Perhaps the same with the Brat struts? On the VW I didn't remove any leaf's in the front torsion tube and the shocks seem to do the trick.

Clean/brush/antiseize. Age old problem with no good solution. I would imagine any paint (unless left forever to dry) would just cause a different sticking problem.

I use brake clean. Let is set. Pay attention to the bottom where oil and oil& brake clean like to run out. I just use ultra-grey - gotta be way cheaper than the dealer stuff and it works well. I make a very small ribbon on the groove of the plate, attach plate to engine, get all screws started a bit, then come back and snug them all. I'm always leary of using too much sealant for this. You'll be able to see it squish out even if you use the smallest bead that you can squeeze out of the tube.

I've seen that pic many times before. But it's the first time that I noticed the welder, then the fact that he's weling beside the fuel tank it appears.

What John says. IIR the only 2.2 I ever installed that was bad had bent valves on the R(passenger) side. I have several sets of 97 2.2 heads here (still attached to engines) and have never had valves replaced in a Suby head. In the cases where a TB broke or idler failed the pistons were knicked so I junk the engine. If you know the engine, miles, maintenance I'd lean towards getting them fixed. If you need a head and can't find one locally drop me a PM.

Search here about the idlers. It's in interference engine. Most of us would rather get the PCI kits with the GMB NEW bearings rather than leave OEM in there that have been there a while. OEM idlers are very pricey. Local parts houses and chains aren't a good value in my opinion. I always do a waterpump (with a Suby gasket) and usually crank & cam seals. I always do new coolant as well - but a lot of folks skip these. Take your time compressing the tensioner. It appears the new ones are easier to ruin than the old ones. I'm single tonight as well and I'm typing rather than cleaning - the GF will be here in the mornong.

I'd probably get an Ebay kit for the idlers. I'd double check the tensioner bearing - since it roughly costs the same as all the other idlers. For another 20 bucks they can get it from the left coast here in a day usually. I usually stock a splined one but just used it on a friends car so all I have left is used - and you have one of those already(actually I probably have 20 used - haven't thinned the heard lately). And you'll be sober by the time the parts arrive. If not - you've got a whole different problem.

On the lift it's quiter(due to no load I'd assume). The noise goes with the speed of the car (versus RPM of the engine, tranny,etc.). Makes same sound in neutral, starts at low sppeds - maybe 10 mph? Sometimes it sounds like the RR wheel bearing, sometimes the LF. Someone was driving it last night and I sat in the back seat and stuck my head in the cargo area. Pitch changes whether slight turn or straight away but still can't tell. Actually when going straight it sounds most like RR. But when turning wither way sounds more like LF. Car has some torque bind. No "at oil temp" flashing though.

No maintenance history. OB99W - thanks for the links. The plug wires are secure but I'll check them again tomorrow. No idea about the valve maintenance. But the genious who installed the non working PS pump stripped the threads of 2 bolts, the oil plug is oversized, and other tell tale signs of poor maintenance. Some glimmers of hope thought like lithium grease sprayed on the door check rods like dealers do at service intervals. Tick seems to be coming from around cyl#4 and is noticable in the passenger compartment. I've heard enough piston slap and rod knock - and this aint it. Another theory could be a slightly bent valve - like if someone broke the TB and threw a new one on. At one time it did have a CEL for cylinder 3&4 missfire. I figured it was due to non Suby plug wires. I went to install used Suby ones I had but I didn't have the correct ones - the correct shape of the boot/grommet. That's why I know they were tight. First one of these I didn't "redo" the engine on and/or replace the engine. Usually an OBW only lasts about 3 days when I'm done with it and I've had this one 3 weeks and 3 folks have looked at it. It's the cheapest one I've ever tried to sell by over 1k. It's got a whine like a wheel bearing in the rear. Diff is full (and was full when I checked it), can't tell which WB may be making the noise. Infact 2 old Suby techs and I all listened with a stethascope and it running 30mph on a lift and couldn't figure it out. This was after road testing it a few times. Some cars are possessed. Like the Forester I did in the fall. I seem to get one each fall (Skip wrote up the "mysterious Legacy from ell" or similar a few years ago). Perhaps I got one this spring as well. I'm unlikely to fix the car if it requires head removel (which would mean engine removal for me). But I would like it to sound better if possible without compromising the engine. It seems to run fine. But keep the suggestions coming - and thanks for the suggestions (and links) so far.

10w30 it is. I searched and didn't find any recommendations searching for "engine tick" and other similar strings. So rather than delete this I'll let it go for now so that I know next time.

I've lived through this before and am not an electrical wiz. It was an alternator (both times). If you had posted what town/state you are in perhaps someone close has a good used one. I usually keep about a half dozen. If it's intermittent taking it off and taking it to have tested may give you an answer, maybe not.

Not piston slap, not rod knock, sounds like a tick. Just drained the old oil and would like to refill it very soon. Anyone run into this? 5w50 + MMO (thin oil) 10w30+Lucas (thick oil) Something in between? Won't matter? I'm leaning towards 10w30 by itself.

Alternator is my guess.

I've used a lot of Bosch being a VW guy. But I've had problems with them in lots of cars - including Volvo's. It seems the more exotic (multiple tips, rare metals) the more issues on a variety of cars. I use the NGK Vgroove's with the green printing on all the Suby's that I do. Around 2 bucks each even at the big chain stores. I have seen and removed well used Autolite plugs out of 2.2's and you certainly can't get any cheaper than them. I only use Champions in lawn mowers. I used to be able to tell on an air cooled VW if it had ever had Champions in it. I think their thread pitch was a little off for that application. I've even started putting NGK's in VW 2.0's with great success. NGK is OEM for a lot of the GM Saturns. I have used some Nippon/Denso's but not enough to have an opinion. Price, performance, and not being finicky NGK's are shaping up to be my favorite plug. And the price isn't bad at all. Even the "laser platinums" the GF's 2006 Impreza takes really aren't that bad cost wise - IIR under 8 bucks. I think their interval had to do with no anti-seize from the factory more than wear. They looked fine when removed. BTW - this has all the potential of becoming like an oil brand thread. It'll be interesteing to see where it goes. My observations above were from real world experience, we'll have to see who's experience's differ and what the scientists have to say.

Unplug atleast one plug wire from the coil pack - but leave it close to the coil pack. Have someone crank the car. It should spark to the coil pack or the the engine(intake manifold). That'll double check the sensor(I forget if crank or cam, ignitor, coil pack, etc.) and perhaps if the crank/cam sprockets/associated sensors and computer are working together, I've done a decent amount of these swaps with no issues. When it doesn't make sense it's usually something stupid/obvious and you're overthinking it.

If the TB was recently done and you have proof that the HG's were done by someone that knew what they were doing I'd do a poor man's tranny flush to hopefully postpone torque bind. Usually I buy broken cars and the HG's seem to go between 110 and 180k so I'm guessing yours have been done. Tranny and coolant are the two most neglected things in a car. Folks are often religous about oil changes and ignore everything else.

IIR wires at the dealer cost me 80-90 bucks? Generics half that or a little more. NGK plugs are like 2 bucks each. Just think of the spark plug swivel socket and socket extension collection that you get to build (if you don't already have them) for this simple job. It's about the only time I use an extension that's roughly an inch. Mine is Snap-on and I don't know if I've seen another brand so short. A swivel head ratchet of some style is also handy.

I use and I believe it's the common recommendation. NGK green V grooved. BKR5E-11 I believe they are. They are like 2 bucks a piece. Have GREEN writing on them. Use anti-seize.

It's tough to remember to leave the valve covers off and have the TB on - just doesn't seem right somehow. As Gloyale says: "I have seen a few DOHC motors were the hashmarks ( l l ) on the drivers side Cam pulleys don't quite line up right when using the marks on the belt. But ther is ussually also orange or white paint marks, as if factory marks, that DO line up precisely. In those cases I assume the paint is the correct mark,as the hashes are as close as they can be, and the engines have all run great. It did bother me quite abit the first time I tried for an hour and could never get he damn lines to be just right no matter how I set it." Really makes a fella paranoid knowing it's an interference engine. But probably half or more of the ones that I have done are like this. I also recently had a Subaru Tech do a TB on a friends 97 2.5 with a Dayco belt. He swore it didn't line up well either compared to a Subaru belt. Just an FYI - Dayco is all that I have ever used.

I read the same stuff. And the load does cause the cams to spin. I don't have those tools. I'm guessing I've only done about a dozen TB jobs on them though. More often I'm replacing them with a 2.2. Guess I've been lucky 100% of the time.

The above, plus patience, perhaps spark plug pliers, I often use hose pliers. Twist before pulling. Use Subaru replacements, I apply dielectric grease a bit liberally using a Qtip into the plug wire boot and hopefully the connector. Have your vin# when you go to Subaru. I believe some of those the spark plug openings in the heads that the boot fits into are teardropped(don't know the real name) and some square. You may want to do the plugs while you have access. Don't waste all the swear words on just the wires.

I had your same question some ago and Tom said it wouldn't be a problem. It wasn't. I even forgot and removed a TB without lineing things up first one time. And escaped unscathed. Yes I could have just been lucky - but I'm not really that lucky. I had heard/read that the valves can even contact each other (intake/exhaust) but in my cases they were still "tied together" by the TB so after I centered the pistons I was o.k. But it IS an interference engine.