davebugs

I think the mechanic is full of BS. But I used to do some Volvo's (until I wised up a bit). A common problem was the fuel pressure regulator. This would end up dumping fuel into the oil. Thinning is out and raising the lever so that it burned it with white smoke that looked like a head gasket. But if you're not mechanical, or independently wealthy, I doubt a used Volvo is the car for you.

My 2001 VW TDI STINKS - I'd much rather smell Diesel fumes. VW put some sort of catalytic converter on it. It really STINKS. I just bought a 99 a week or so ago - another TDI - smells like Diesel fumes - I like it!

They are a PITA. If the car actually has one I never reinstall it. I should have several laying around if you need one off 95 and up's - probably the same. But look at where it is. You really think much is gonna get between the engine/trans and that crossmember? Unless you're doing mud boggs or something? If you want one PM me. But I think you're crazy.

For vaccum line size (all but the brake booster) get the size that goes to the gizmo on the passenger side strut tower, or to the charcoal canister on the pass side "framerail" up by the radiator. It's all the same size.

No worries. I often have trouble finding what I'm looking for with search but this code is often asked. There is an awful lot of excellent information here and good folks as well.

Start by searching for P0420 here. Read a few threads.

Something to think about if the HG's in it were done. Folks have 2-3k in cash burning a hole in their pocket. Starts 3rd week in January now. Those folks that get the loan shark tax refund advance checks that gotta spend them right away. You should witness the public auctions. I don't vary my prices. After C-mas it gets slow until towards the end of Jan as I just stated. Now income tax checks come in weekly. Weather warms up, the income tax money props up sales until spring weather. By then you have lots of folks buying cars, kids graduating, etc. If you find a car you like for 2-3k or less BUY IT!! They are still selling fast. The cheaper the faster they sell since folks see that income tax money as free money. They forget that they paid it in before getting it back. Some of those folks it truely is free money (yours and mine) and they are the ones most likely to pay the loan shark rates since it really isn't their money they are wasting (it's ours).

One of the reasons you're looking for answers here is experience. And experience has told you OEM(Subaru). Frankly I've found the 2.5's to be much more moody about wires. Often on the 2.2's the aftermarkets seem to work on. The cars I redo usually have aftermarket on them. On the 2.5's I only go Subaru. If I needed new wires I'd do OEM or perhaps try the NGK's on a 2.2. But that's what I'd limit my choices to. You can now make you're own informed decision. Worst case you'll need to buy wires twice. Then you can add to the experience here.

I use both - KBB more. SInce my NADA book only shows loan value, retail, etc. Some folks use Edmunds - never tried them. But yes - a conbination. I usually try to buy, redo, and sell cheaper than or right around the KBB Private Party fair price. I actually have a cheapie right now that I'm having difficulty selling - possibly beacuse it hasn't been redone. 2,800 for a 97 OBW. I know they weren't keeping up with prices (even online) when gas was 4 bucks a gallon. So I don't know how often they re-assess and if they strickly do it lets say every 6 months or will move up the timetable due to market conditions. I know NADA publishes relatively frequently but I think that has more to do with selling books that real significant price changes. Atleast on the cars that I follow.

Search around. The cliffnotes version: Must have an EGR (95 automatics, all the 96 and up's that I've seen but others have seen 96's, etc that didn't have an EGR) 95 dual port exaust - no exhaust work needed, non interference. 96 (and up) single port exhaust - you'll need a Y pipe., non interference. 97 and up. Interference, and you need the Y-pipe. 2.2's are much more reliable. You want to reseal it anyways. Baffle plate, cam*crank seals, Orings, spark plugs, timing belt(idlers&tensioner?), etc. See if valve covers need replaced. But seriousely - search around here - very common swap. I'm about to do another one this week myself.

95 2.2 auto (with the EGR) is the easiest. Any 2.2 with an EGR 95-99 will work - but you'll need the Y pipe. Much information here. SEARCH is your friend. I'm assuming it's a DOHC 2.5.

In 97 the engine went interference - but I don't recall any other significant changes. But I don't do nearly as many Impreza'a. Search for some of the threads with online manual download links to see if there is one for what you're looking for.

Start soaking it with the penetrant of your choice. If you just want to remove the arm that's the easy part (compared to removing the wiper motor). Little plastic cap that covers a nut on the end of the arm. Pry that puppy up, probably a 10mm nut (I forget). Work the wiper arm off. If you're unable they make wiper arm pullers - an auto parts probably loans these. But get it soaking.

The cars on my side of the state SW PA aren't so good on the japanese rust either. Underneath the body will be fine. But those rear fender wells, filler tube, etc are always issues. If you're considering a PA car check in with Subaru360 here. He redoes them and sales them all the time. I do an well but mine all seem to have a little rust. I'm doing a 96 Blue OBW next. One owner, it'll be getting a 2.2. Probably take 2 weeks and probablky above your price point. I do have a 98 OBW Green 187k for sale under 3k that I haven't redone the engine but I think someone from WV is coming for it tomorrow. I'd drop Subaru360 a PM. See what he has that he's working on. Atleast you know the major maintenance and tuneup stuff would be done and possibly still be in your price range. He's near Philly/Jersey.

You've got a PM coming.

Ask around at a real (local independent) parts store. Or a local real garage(not a chain - again locally owned). These guys will know about the best guys to redo starters, alternators, radiator repair, fuel tank repair, etc. Places the chain parts and repair places don't even want to know about. Usually you'll find skilled, experienced old timers. Not a bunch of kids looking something up on the computer. Like I said a breed of folks that is thinning out. When you find one treat them fair. Typically they have been in business for many years because they treat the local professional mechanics fair. Appreciate what you have found. You'll miss 'em when they are gone. Dave

I get starters and alternators rebuilt locally when I can. Like to keep the money local if possible, price is usually better (about 40 bucks), and quality is better. Sometimes I just have him "fix" it for 20 bucks. But it's a retireing breed. Just like shoemakers. I'd imagine Tailors, etc. Skilled old timers not being replaced. It's a bit of a shame actually. My guy will retire in March. I also have him rebuild antique ones (try that at the local chain store). There are some "electrical expert" places that will do the same work for double or triple the price (but the quality isn't as good - still better than a chain store remain). Often I have good used ones rebuilt before installing them in a car. For 40 bucks why not. Half the time he redoes them while I wait. Can't beat that.

Last Legacy that I had with an alternator problem acted just like this. Noticed the RPM issue - thought perhaps fuel filter or something. Anyways. Let it "cool down" headed back home - didn't get far. The battery was good and would rejuvinate a bit. But the car was running totally off the battery. Kept going shorter and shorter distance until I just called for a ride and went and got the trailer. So yea - I'd say the odds were real good.

This is what my most often problem is for this code. Easy to spot. Next time after pumping gas crawl underneath. If the plastic is still in place that's a bad sign - probably hasn't been replaced yet.

He had to be replying to the wrong thread. I second to ignore that post.

86Subaru - glad you got it sorted out. I just got on to post about the bolt. EVO - do you live at NAPA looking for weird stuff? I no longer have a NAPA local. They were the only ones stocking a weird size helicoil set for my VW. They were the only ones with parking brake shoes for a late 90's OBW(that you told me about). And thay stock 1.25pitch 10mm bolts - and long ones at that ? Bad news is that they are all independent so you have to call them all. They can't tell you the inventory of the NAPA in the next town.

If you're talking about the adjusting long bolt they are like 4-5 bucks (IIR)at the dealer - and mine doesn't stock them. One time I bought a bolt and had to thread it the rest of the way up. 1.25 threads (Subaru standard). I used my threaded one then swapped to the dealer one later. Original bolt had gaulded to the little aluminum gizmo that has the jamb bolt on it. When I went to do the timing belt I couldn't save it. I couldn't find an off the shelf bolt at Lowes, Home Depot, Advance, or other hardware or auto parts stores. But I did find one that I could thread the balance of the way.

Agree about the 2.2. If you do get a 2.5 do the HG's while it's out - you know you're just on borrowed time. BTW around here a 2.2 is about 1/3 the cost of a 2.5 - and is much more reliable.

A rad won't fix your problem. However if the problem has been going on for sometime I always send it out to be flushed and pressure tested while I'm going the HG job. Locally this costs me 25 bucks. Last Forester rad I sent him he said was the dirtiest he'd ever seen. Yes - the Forester had HG issues and the kid kept driving it.

So you weren't lucky - you were average - and have HG issues. Search around here. Very common problem with a standard solution as long as you don't abuse it too long. Welcome to the club.