davebugs

Would an O2 sensor problem really cause no spark? I would have NEVER checked that.

Never had that one. Infact if the cam/crank semsors were bad I wouldn't expect any spark and you've already swapped the coil pack. Unless a plug wire or plug is really bad? I'm parting a 97 Legacy now. Never needed to swap an ECU. Tell me where it is and give me something for me labor/shipping/packaging and I'll send it to you. I know it worked. It's from a 2.2 car that had tranny issues. I've done a decent amount of 2.2's inplace of 2.5's so I think it would work. Dave

One year engine. 2.5 SOHC (and no - you can't 2.2 it). External HG leak prone. Just infront of #4 cylinder - usually tough to see it's right by the cross member. Like all 2.5 SOHC's. I think the tranny's are a little unigue as well. Last one I did was a PITA. I pulled 4 engines in that vehicle. A used one w/53k HG's leaked. Pricey engines. Also seem to be known for bearing troubles judging by the number of folks who have called me looking for an engine. More than the DOHC's it seems. I bought this one with bad bearings and one of the replacement engines had bad bearings. If it's running good that's fine. I'd still put it in the air and look for the external HG leak and listen for rod knock.

Boots are easy - just require a little patience. I get generic ones that come in a black box. Never even priced original parts for this. I just keep a box (or partial box) around. Piston seals I've never done. If there is a problem there I just install a reman caliper.

I always remove them to lube things up, check the boots, etc. Just hang the caliper from a wire running to the strut spring. If you're that far into the job you wanna check the slides, etc in my opinion.

Take it for an hour ride. Usually doesn't happen for about 45 minutes. Highway speeds preferred. Watch the gauge. When she decides to get hot she will. It's not uncommon for the heat to vary a little like normal for the first 30 minutes so don't let that give you a false sense of security.

ej22 in place of a 2000 2.5 SOHC - I don't know about that swap. Think it would be ugly. I do have an engine here not torn down (bad bearings) that has heads, etc. Intake is already off. Let me know if you think you need parts and I can look at tearing it down.

The "engine side" is one of the reasons that I always pull the engine. Much easier to see the condition, clean the engine surface, etc. This "second" piece is often overlooked - especially if still in the car. I'm 50/50 on sending the heads to the shop. If they are out 4 thousanths after I clean them - off they go. If I can run a compression check w/the engine in the car and don't like what I see - off they go. I've had them wear a "ring" into the head - off they went. They never seem to need seals so if they aren't warped, and clean up well I've stopped sending them out as SOP. I always send the radiator out to be cleaned/flushed/tested as part of a HG job. Whether the PO tried a sealant or not.

Don't know I never worked on the old ones and I send heads out to be fixed. You gotta look for the original cause though. TB skip a few teeth? Cam pulley? Something caused the wreck. Something had to happen to wipe out valves in more than one cylinder - it's not like you just dropped one valve. Dave

Bent valves is the obvious choice.

S-10, 4.3. Bullet proof, common (cheap and easy parts new and used). I've had several - mostly 4WD's all through the 90's - 90's thru 99's. I still have a 90 2wd 35k and my dad has a 99? GMC Sonoma - also the Astro vans have much of the same running gear and I have a 97 Astro. The S-10's will haul what you need to. And they (and the Astro) will pull a car trailer loaded pretty well - atleast 5k. Some day I gotta get an equalizing hitch. Annoying issues someitimes. Intake gasket leaks (on the later 90's ones), Sometimes (again on later 90's) wiper motor circuit board goes. Aftermarket available. Neither a real big deal. Rangers are cheaper than S-10's and they should be. Dodge's are even cheaper - and they should be. I usually attend auctions weekly. The Jap stuff is usually just too expensive to buy and maintain. Not as many interchangable parts as a Suby. Dave

I wouldn't on a 2.5. It's just easier to pull the engine. Reseal it up (including the baffle plate). I think you do a better job with the engine on a stand. When it comes to cleaning the surfaces, the bizarre torgueing sequence, etc. Just much easier to work on, and I think it makes a better job of it. I don't try to impress anyone. I like to do things one time and correctly. My opinion is those odds are improved with the engine out of the car. Has to much less frustrating. I think you'd add more time to the job trying to leave it in the car rather than just pulling it. Dave

I may have a chance to get what the title says. I've never looked at, purchased, or worked on anything that new except routine maintenance (oil, tranny, spark plugs, brakes) on the GF's 2006 Impreza. Do these HG's leak like the 2000 2.5 SOHC's? Is it the same engine or was the HG issue better by then? They are probably gonna trade it tomorrow and I may be able to get it for under 7k. I haven't seen the car and I may have to take other folks word for it's condition. I'm wondering if thats a fair price - they say it's in average shape. What could hurt me. I'm thinking the traditional HG's, and torque bind. Probably overdue for a timing belt. Thoughts? Guidance? Or pass on it? Thanks, Dave

When parting cars the cats seem to be the same on the two cars you were speaking of. As pointed out selling or installing used cats is illegal. (the Gov't is your friend). Can't figure out what the big deal is. If the car passes emissions test that's all that SHOULD matter. My guess is that the manufacturers had a hand in making used ones illegal. But I really don't know. The used cats that I've sold have been for scrap - not reuse - and none recently. Now that platinum and paladium is down I'm just hanging onto the few that I have hoping that the price goes up.

Sounds like the classic SLOW 4way blinking. Never quite understood is since the car will start and drive. That cars101 link should tell you how to reprogram/reset the security system. First WIND WINDOW DOWN - yes I've locked myself out a few times doing this. Part of this is that it cycles the locks. Second I'd get the car in the air - even ramps. They purposely bury that black button under the dash if it's like the late 90's Legacy's. You'll need a light at well.

I don't know where that excellent pic is either of the knock sensor wire. A lot of times you can cheat. The wire lays on the block and makes a 'cleaner' line where it was than the surrounding aluminum. IIR the torque spec is like 13lbs or something. Basically is just runs up under the throttle body where the connector is so I always thought it would be difficult to be too far off the approved path. I'm sure you can find the pic if you searched. Or perhaps a regular here remembers where it is and will be kind enough to post a link.

Perhaps you're one of the very lucky few and haven't had HG issues YET. There is a search button. Try it - you can search for threads that you've posted in if you forget what the name of your thread was. Good luck.

Anyone know about this now - since the OP? I'm parting one out. Thought I'd grab (and probably try and sell) the pass side airbag. Don't care about the dash. Already removed glove box and blower fan and possible the TCU? Whatever is by the doorpost beside the glove box with a large connector. Never needed to track down a TCU on a Subaru. Dave

GG, Never done that on a Suby. That auto tranny looks long and heavy. Car would be on a 4 post lift. Handling the 'pitching' could be an issue with that heavy tranny. I'd like to do one so that I would know for the future. But my time and sanity is worth something - little perhaps - but something.

Hey - I'm even thinking about a new/used TC. I'm a one man show. I do an engine swap every week or so. Trying to figure out how to bend the flexplate to get at those bolts. Gonna take some serious leverage. Good news is that I don't care about the engine and know I'll ruin the flexplate. On a cherry picker, engine stand, rolling around on the floor...Gonna be hard to hold stationary with the leverage it's gonna take.

It's a 97 OBW White 130k? Decent shape, new tires. I was gonna go 500-600. I usually pay 200 to 1k depending on the car's body mostly. It's a nice car. But a fella has to be able to make a little money on it and still have his sanity. I've had severe troubles in the past sometimes reseating TC's that have pulled out a little while removing the engine. Never developed the knack of seating them - just persistance. And those had one or two steps that needed seated. I may have to pass or part this one if I get it. I have lots of 2.2 flexplate's but I'll have to think about if I have any 2.5's. I may have one on a 99 2.5.

John, Sometimes I'm a little dense. I still don't see how moving it forward that I'd be able to get to the heads of the TC bolts. Haven't pulled any plugs. Debating what to offer for the car "as-is". If I can't get the engine removed I'll have to pass on the car.

You missed the main point. The engine is locked up. I can't turn it to undo the Torque converter bolts so that the engine will seperate from the TC in the traditional method.

Did some searching with no luck. Looking at a 97 OBW with the engine locked up - unable to turn to get at TC bolts. If I remove the radiator as always, take the harmonic balancer and other suff off the front of the engine. Will it pull forward enough that the TC shaft will come free of the tranny? Assuming that's the method then how screwed am I in getting the TC back in place? No worse than if it came out a few inches like it does sometimes or worse? Thanks, Dave

FYI my GF's 2006 Impreza has a weird tranny fluid spec. Seems to me the 2007's have another. Anyways after research and calls I ended up using Wolf's Head Universal Synthetic. I've used their products for years (through atleast 2 sales of the company). Anyways so far, so good. And her fluid was really, really nasty at 50k. Dave