davebugs

Much ado about nothing. You're really looking for problems. Drive and enjoy, don't sweat this. That's my opinion.

The quick lube places apparently don't put them on either(if they did they'd probably be 5 bucks). Life goes on without them. I'm usually servicing friends/family or cars to sell. Can't rely on oil getting checked, leaks on ground being reported, etc. Folks don't like to see drips. I prefer to minimize them when possible.

I think they are .53 or so at the dealer. I buy a pack of 6 often. At Advance they are more than a buck or so a piece. Come in a cute little display box made to hang on a large display black/yellow. I wanna say 3 bucks for 2 crush washers. I keep the copper assortment here. Some cars (like a 2003 Acura that I maintain) there is hardly any room for a crush washer or even a wide copper washer. Some of the Chevy's get a copper washer. FYI that's all you got on the air cooled VW's. And hardly the reason they leak oil (lots of other reasons). In my opinion beats nothing or a steel washer.

A little more info please. Did you "service" the brakes. Or just slap rotors and pads on? Did you check/lube, etc the sliders? Why were the old pads worn? Like - the inside was shot and the outside pads had a lot left.

Im a jamb I'll use copper or aluminum flat washers since they are soft enough to crush a bit.

Please update your location. Some of us probably have this tool. There was a post here within the last year on how to use hex keys rubber bands, duct tape, and JB weld of some such combination rather than the proper tool. I just had a tool made. Others may have the factory tool. I'd imagine for a deposit you could borrow one. Myself I require a deposit. Funny how folks can drive 100 miles in a few hours to obtain the tool. Then it takes weeks to return it. Those of us that have tools USE THEM - that's why we have them. Speaking for myself I don't have any issues loaning them - just don't screw up what I am needing to do. A deposit gives incentive.

edrach, Wonder if the OP will have the courtesy to update us on what the issue was?

Glad you got it out. Perhaps a local member has new studs for the bottom ones that you bent. If not drop me a PM - but I'm on the other side of the country. I try to have a few of them around already removed incase the JY screws up the ends of the threads.

I'll be offline until tomorrow. And I probably won't be on much until later tomorrow. But I'm curious what your issue is. Good luck. It's either something simple you've forgotten. Or just the crap that welds these pieces together in the rust belt. Even when you start to get a crack. Work in small increments all the way around. I try and cheat the drivers side the most. Since it's the most congested. I'd rather have it running slightly ahead as far as a gap goes. That way if it torque binds a bit it's on the passenger side and easier access.

Not counting the exhaust stuff - how many bolts/nuts have you removed. Pitch stopper? (engine will come out with it in place but they don't seem to go back in with this in place. 4 eng/trans bolts/nuts 2 motor mount bolts. 4 Torque converter bolts. Search isn't working properly (or it's taking a while for it to see posts from today) Before I move on can we atleast hear how many botls/nuts you've removed? When you said "removed all bolts". That doesn't really tell us and probably isn't acurate. I've forgotten both motor mount and TC bolts until I have difficulties and recheck what I've done.

Torque converter bolts!!!!!

I'll start with quick answers before a longer list. Tranny supported WELL. In addition to making sure the "pitch" of the engine is correct sometimes it helps to take weight off the engine and thus lots of weight on the tranny support. The dowel pins - PB, Liquid wrench, etc. On a recent engine removal the tranny actually broke a piece around the passenger side dowell. Anyway with the tranny holding this extra load start with thin long screwdrivers. I also spray the engine/trans matting with PB. BTW I also scotchbrite both bellhousings and anti-seize them before re-install.

Glad it all worked out. Things could have gotten ever uglier. I assume you used anti-seize and dielectric grease.

My guess is that he's been drinking the coolaid but doesn't have whatever it takes to be a distributor. Since he likes attacking products others have had success with I think IF he ever becomes a distributor free samples for USMB members should be part of his business plan. If you believe in the product that much, and it's that good, should be an easy thing to do.

GG - I know it's a simple swap. But 1&3 on a coil pack (rather than 1&2 or 3&4?) I haven't witnessed this yet.

Not to rain on a potential competitors product but the Seafoam works very well on VW 2.0's to make the top end queiter. Run it a short time and drain. And it's a favorite of mine for Suby catalytic performance not up to par (or whatever the code is). Never used it as an engine cleaner in a Suby - but it works well in the VW's. Back in the day I used to use ATF, add a quart, short drive, immediate drain & new filter. Since ATF is basically very high detergent oil. MMO works well in Suby's after installing a used engine or after a HG job. Few hundred miles and drain, fresh oil and filter. On both 2.2's and 2.5's.

Thanks. Looking like tractor/trailer paint for me. I had actually considered POR15 but it gets expensive and stinks pretty bad.

Wow - for my trailer I was thinking of using bed liner to slimp on the prep. I figure tractor paint or bed liner. Diamond plate has surface rust. Hoped to just paint over it reather than rust converter, rust proofer, etc under the top coat. I don't care about looks on the trailer - but I'd hate to see it flake off.

Depending on if it made sense I'm sure some of us have old plug wires. Don't forget to get only Suby ones. But I'm sure some off us have used offbrands, or welll used Suby ones. Don't know if shipping would be time and $ prohibitive. And we'd need to know if it's a male or female connection at the coil, and the shape of the opening in the valve cover. Pics of the old one would suffice.

Gee - and when I saw the original post I was gonna suggest drinking heavily. I hear that makes other people more interesting. Perhaps the same would apply to a message board. I do believe we have folks from time to time who post but probably can't legally drive at the time. Hey - maybe that's when the thread was started!

I mentioned early on in this thread that it was likely part of the boot from the plug wire. Otherwise he'd of had a miss since the wire wouldn't have fit over the rubber "bushing" from the spark plug socket. I also recommended hose pliers that I posted a pic of here in a favorite tool thread. The expensive ones (Sunax?) are bent almost 90 degrees at the and. The cheap ones (Harbor Freight) are almost straight but about 1/3 the price. May be worth the cheap pair to heat and bend. That plug wire boot it tougher than the rubber sleeve in a socket. You may also try a razor knife(a thin one) as I suggested early on. Good luck - unpleasant job. I usually just pull the engine at this point and reseal it, etc since pulling the engine doesnt' take that long and is WAY less frustrating.

Update your profile with a state. Perhaps someone can make a local recommendation.

One bottle. Used to be a small blue bottle for like 2 bucks - but I haven't needed any for a while.

Rubber mallet is something that I try - of course I usually have the engine out. Then I progress from there. But after is start to move it just takes patience. As GG eluded to there is no real good place to pry against. SOmetimes I'll actually re-install the alternator bracket to try and use it.

If you read the bottle it makes it sound like you just shouldn't pour it in when you're filling the rad. Don't know if it's beacuse they want the system warm or if they figure you're starting with a full rad. The bpottle used to be a couple bucks. I only have 2 left so I don't know if they've gone up in price.