davebugs

Welcome. Thats an EJ22. Be aware it's very likely that it's not the oil pan - it just looks that way. The "baffle plate" or "oil seperator plate" leaks on the back of these engines (it's rarely the main sela that most folks suggest NOT to touch - even if the engine is out). There is no oil pan gasket. It's RTV - most use Ultra Grey.

Protect that rad with a large piece or cardboard, plastic, paneling, something.

The factory doesn't use anti-seize. I swear the replacement interval has more to do with gaulding than plug performance. Dielectric grease and anti-seize. If that's the same engine in a 2006 Inpreza 2.5 they aren't bad at all (compared to the DOHC 2.5). As stated no need to remove the battery. Don't forget to anti-seize the washer bottle screws heavily.

I don't. See a similat thread about doing hte crank seal while the oil pump is off within the last few weeks. It's personal preference - but I install AFTER that little piece over the canshaft is back on the engine.

I smack it from several angles with a rubber mallett. I had a stubborn one this week myself. With the engine in the car. I used a long pry bar to pry against where the AC tensioner gets bolted to. I think I also found a similar pry point on the passegner side. Mallet, pry, pry, rotate a little, mallett, pry, pry. All this after PB blaster on the outside (replacing TB anyways), and inside(since the bolt was removed it can actually get in there as well. Once it wiggles a little you're on your way. Patience.

Yep - now you've got it. It really gets squished when you tighten the plastic snout. I can probably get you some bolts tomorrow - but by the time I'd mail them, etc the hardware store (or dealer) would be easier. I'm thinking they may have a coating to resist rust? Kinda look a little like brass(yellowish) but aren't brass.

I'm not sure (can't recall). But on 95 and up the gasket goes AROUND the thermostat.

Welcome. I believe you wnat the new generation for sale/wanted section. Please also update your profile with a city and state.

I use Dayco belts and on the DOHC's they look like they don't quite line up. I thought it was me. The first few I kept removing and redoing the belt (which meant recompressing the tensioner, etc). I didn't realize the Suby belts lined up better until I had a Suby tech do a 2.5 DOHC TB job for a friend of mine. He had never used a Dayco and had the same alignment issues that I have every time. Since he's used to only OEM parts he hadn't seen this. He called me to see if I had this happen to me since he knows I've done a lot of them with the Dayco belts. So if you're paranoid at all I'd spend the money on the dealer belt. IIR the marks on the cam pulleys on the drivers side where they point to each other is where they didn't exactly match. I have a pic on my laptop somewhere but I doubt that I can find it easily. I've still never used a Suby belt of any kind.

Never did a Suby tranny in a JY. Some of those places have jersey barriers and for a few bucks they will take the car, put it on the jersey barriers so that you can remove the tranny. Tires are always my landing pad of choice. Often they don't allow floor jacks - but the screw jacks you get out of the cars are allowed. Along with old rims as jack stands. Tedious but I've done it on other cars.

14mm 12 point IIR - I pulled it out of another set and keep it on my cart. You can actually fond free stuff on endwrench - but I have a helluva time. That's why I suggested searching here for the links. I've NEVER needed to know the coolant plug size - wonder why you feel you need to mess with it, or are referring to something else?

Search here for endwrench.com articles - or search there yourself(I never have much luck searching on Endwrench even thought I know what I'm looking for exists there). The re-assembly is even more critical and complicated.

Well done. I usually smack the pulley (after the bolt has been removed) from a few different directions with a rubber mallet. Then it's just wiggling.

There are no good options if you don't have the tool. If the engine is in the car I hate to either jamb something into the flexplate or the teeth on the flywheel. You could knock or bend something, but mostly because I have trouble with keeping the wedge in there (since I'm almost always working alone). First time I heard about the starter trick I though it was a weird deal. But I've used it many times. If I'm pulling the engine with my new impact I should be o.k. in the future With the engine on the stand I find it a bit easier. But I've learned 2 things. I break the crank bolt while the engine is still in the car(even on parts engines I'm removing - given that I remember), and I break loose the cam bolts BEFORE removing the TB - again - assuming I remember if I'm doing heads. Also throw in there aligning the TB before removing the old one.

I use a pices of scrap wood - a 1x6. I usually use a rubber mallett. Sometimes I need to switch to a real hammer - or a 2 lb sledge since it's flat on the side and easier to strike the wood evenly - no thard - but evenly.

On the RARE occasion that I need to do a rear main (which the local dealer doesn't even stock) I use a PVC collar as well. But I believe you are still asking for trouble doing them. The only ones I've done are from someone doing them prior. I've never seen a factory one leak. Weep a little - but it's always hard to tell due to the oil from the baffle plate. I'm usually working on cars with 100-200k on them. YMMV

Sounds like you still may need a harmonic balancer. But atleast you can continue your teardown.

Sounds like the rubber in your harmonic balancer may have gone bad. Use the starter of the car with the breaker bar over by the battery tray. There is a current thread about a crank bolt but your situation is different.

If you're lucky. I've taken to trying them while still on the car. So that I can use the breaker bar trick if necessary. I recently broke down and purchased the IR 2131QT 1/2" impact that was on sale at Sears for 149. They had been going for 120 or so USED on Ebay. My main reason for getting it was that it has 600 ft/lb in reverse. Occasionally none of my 3 impacts will remove that bolt so I had to go borrow someone else's gun. I don't like to borrow tools. Good luck with the removel - but yea - standard threads. I have trouble with about 1 in 10 it seems.

It's standard threads. If you don't have the correct harmonic balancer tool you can cheat by putting your breaker bar over by the battery tray and hitting the key to get it loose. Of course then you gotta worry about how to torgue the thing tight when re-installing.

Too bad you're so far away. I'm getting in a 99 Impreza sedan on wednesday. 66k, auto, major oil leak on front of engine. Red, with a grey interior 4 door, no ABS. Needs a few odds and ends, already has a few minor dents. Manual windows IIR. Probably gonna be in the 3k-3,500 range after it gets a clock spring, oil pump Oring amd sealed, crank seal, cam seals, Timing belt, accessory belts, etc. This may be the first car I don't install a new WP and idlers on - it's only got 66k. Cheaper if youd buy it as is. I've been waiting on this car for months. They finally brought it last week and the airbag light was on. Took it to the dealer to diagnose - it's the clock spring (Subaru has a different name) so I got it cheaper but it's something else to fix - a fix I haven't done on a Suby before. Anyways I'm trying to get the cars cleaned up for the summer so that I can play with my antiques. I'd be open to selling it as-is.

Here's an idea. Update your profile so that we know where you're at!!! If you don't want to tackle this someone here may be able to recommend a shop. If it's a shop unfirmiliar with Suby's you might as well do it yourself again.

Clean and lube them. Looking for cracks in the boot, rust/crap on the pin, etc. Take advantage(sort of) of the fact that the car is together. Feel both rims after a drive to make sure it's both sides. You had stated that the pads wore evenly. Almost sounding more like a bad caliper than a problem with the pins/lube, etc. Check to make sure it's both sides.

Yea - don't touch the rear main. I don't believe that you answered the question on what brand of seals that you did use.

I'd love to attend but I don't see it happenning. Appreciate the invite of the folks here though.