davebugs

They always have some resistance. A lot of stuff is moving in there and usually being pushed by pretty strong forces. I hope that you have the crank set properly before turning the cams. Depending on when you are doing this you can get one of the left coast places to possibly overnight you an Ebay kit for sat delivery cheaper than getting idlers at the parts store. You gotta guess just the one or all of them. Usually the second wimpiest is the one on the old style tensioner. The lower one is probably the single bearing one and now they are all double row idlers.

Gasket scraper? I always use a lot of brake clean.

The splined one? It's the common failure.

The same as broken in my opinion. Damage is probably similar. And you still don't know what caused it. Idler, WP, the belt itself, a cam had an issue, etc.

He gets 11(naturally) 46 42 51 I'm off to try and hunt them down now. Too bad it's not like ODBII codes and there is a master list. I found some links to some PDF's so I'm looking through them.

o.k. folks. With the instruction in this thread and other the inspection station (where the car is for now) jumpered pin 6 and say they get a code 11, 12, and 16. IIR 11 is generic - something like - "you have an ABS problem" I can't find codes for 12 & 16. 97 Legacy L(that helps determine which ABS system).

I think you made the right choice pulling the engine. Do all the other maintenance work and a better job on the pan. You may want to get a pickup tube Oring since you'll have the pan off. I would recommend against the rear seal. Unless it's proven that it's the culprit. My local dealer doesn't even stock one. Usually they look like they are weeping a little from all the oil floating around from the baffle plate.

Pump must be dead. I ran hot wire to yel/blu, ground to large black wire and got nothing. These were directly to my jump box. I have several here from Lecagy's. When I get this one out I'll see if I have a match

Look around for endwrench articles on doing htis. I'll have to go back and se ethe miles, year, etc. Generally. 2 Cam seals Crank seal oil pump O ring Orings (for the cam ends on the 2.2) Baffle plate and screws. Timing belt? Other sources: Untra Grey NGK Timing Belt Accessory belts. coolant valve covers? (usually by now the Orings are leaking and you'll notice that when you poull the plugs. The VC's themselves may not be leaking. Hose clamps (for rad and ATF hoses) If a lot of miles Water Pump Idlers if sounding bad or a lot of miles.

Now I'm curious - the 99 2.2 has TWO cam sensors? I'm gonna have ot go open the hood of the on that I have here and look. BTW I have a 99 Legacy 2.2 parts engine here. If there are 2 sensors on it I can look to see it they appear good.

I've been off searching. Haven't found this exact problem but a the end of this I'll tell what I've found so far. The pedal doesn't seem to do anything - perhaps get temporarily "mushy". No pulsing is heard - or really felt for that matter - the car jsut "coasts" for a little bit then starts braking again. No ABS light at all. Before, during, after. But it just "acts" like ABS. WIth the fuse unplugged the issue doesn't happen. I found some hits for "ABS code" Bleed brakes(all 4 in specific sequence). Find BLACK 6 pin connector under dash to the right of steering column along with 2 grounding pins. Read codes and look them up. (Pray it isn't tone rings).

I was thinking crankshaft. Yea the camshaft sensor is very easy to replace. Don't know if they should be OEM or not since I alyaws have used ones if necessary.

Here's the deal. When braking from lets say 50 mph to 0. A time or two while slowing down it will "coast" a bit like ABS is kicking in. No ABS light, pulled ABS fuse and problem went away (and ABS light came on). RR caliper was hanging up. Replaced that and issue still persists. Best way to check this since no ABS light is on? I'm in the rust belt so tone rings aren't looking that good - but on other cars where they were bad the ABS light is on. Suggestion? Threads?

A lot of us have those around as spares. They can be a pain to remove with corrosion. CHeck the wireing/connection first. If noone close has any PM me and I'll see if I have any left or take one of a good running engine.

Expanding on GG's comments. That's not a bad belt at all to do. I always pull the radiator 'cause I like a little room. If a belt doesn't solve it I'd pull the engine to check the pistons, clean and reseal it and drop it back in for another 100k.

Bosal makes a awful lot of VW exhausts for air and water cooled. I don't recall if I've ever used one of their cats though.

Nice finds.

I truely appreciate the pointers. I know enough basics to fix wireing for a bulb but that's about it. Playing with wires so close to the fuel tank with my level of knowledge and comfort isn't my idea of a good time. Only good news is that the car is on a trailer outside. I'm not much of a hockey fan but the game is in town tonight and it's turning out to be an excellent game. Just like some of the football playoffs and superbowl this year. Tomorrow I test!

Yes. Probably some bent valves. Someone here recently was lucky with an interference 2.2 IIR.

o.k. lets pretend that I'm a 6 year old - cause that's about my electrical abilities. I know what a lot of relays look like. I'm wondering how to tell which one is for the fuel pump. How do I measure to make sure the black is the ground. What setting on the multimeter? I was debating about trying to hit the pins on the pump with a hot and ground to try and get it going. Now I'm thinking of cutting the tape off the wires, stripping atleast the blu/yel and black (at different distances from the plug) and using alligator clips to the jump box and see if the pump runs. Good approach? Another might be to use the pointy test light to "complete" the hot part of the circuit. Will this work - place the alligator clip of the test light on the stripped wire on the blu/yel, touch the point onto the hot of the jump box(that I've already stuck the ground to the car somewhere). If the circuit is complete the test light should light up and the pump run. Or better approaches? I think I should check at the pump before trying to figure out which relay. The car is on a trailer so it's a bit of a pain to get up under the dash well - that's why I removed the kick panel.

cougar, Funny - most of the threads I rea don this topic you provided the solution. I'm just a little bit dense. I can find the blu/yel wire. Set my multimeter on 20 volts, red probe on the blu/yel wire and ground the other one. Get someone to turn the key and see if I get 12 volts or close? "under the dash" is a busy area. I took the kick panel off so that I could look for a silver (with a green end) relay as in another post by the originator of this thread and there isn't one stuck into the fuse block. Where is this relay likely to be(fuse block, to the right of the steering column, that kinda stuff), what does it look like, etc? How do I test it after I find it? I gotta run (high school graduation) but I hope to finish this tonight so please keep the suggestions up. What wires (other than the blu/yel) would I need to use to try and run the pump with jumpers with the ground?(I'm guessing the big black one - but what do I know?)

This 96 doesn't have a relay atttached to the fuse block like the photo in this thread(or similar thread by some poster working on sema car). The silver and green one. The Plug on the passenger side fuel pump has these 5 wires. Bottom right Black (a little heavier gauge than the rest of the wires), middle green/black wire. Top of plug L to R. Blue, green/blue, blue/yellow. If someone knows of a better thread that I didn't turn up please point me to it.

It's complicated because it won't crank with the key. But the ignition does appear to be on , lights, dinger, etc. I have the starter hot wired with an aligator clip to the battery. After I got it to backfire and caught the air filter on fire with either I started looking for fuel pressure. I cracked the gas cap and had some pressure (probably due to heat). Tightened the cap, cycled the key many times (atleast a dozen). Never heard the pump, removing gas cap had no pressure sound. Being one guy I'm trying diagnose this. Not to fix the car, but to just get it to run for a few minutes to know whether I want to pull the engine. I do have fuel pumps around if that's the answer. I don't have any relay's though without removing them from good running cars. I'm not a big electrical guy and trying to wire the pump direcftly sounds a little intimidating since you're literally at the fuel tank. I do have a jump box to use as juice. I'll go take a quick look. I was hoping to determine the fate of the engine today but I'll have to leave in an hour or so for a graduation.

I've never done it that way. But the correct size punch for the pins on the axles would be nice. Odds are you're gonna screw up the exhaust behind the second cat where the donut goes. Then you'll have to decide whether a new donut is enough, etc.

How many volts should there be at the fuel pump on the passenger side? I'm having an issue on a 96 Impreza parts car. Runs on either (other than the small fire). But I'd like to hear it run before pulling. I see the relay description and I'll check it - I do hear clicking from under there but it could be anything. This car's linkage is screwed and disconnected, I'm hotwireing the starter since there may be something other than the switch in the shifter that is stopping the ignition from starting it. I'm only one guy. I should have several fuel pumps from 95-97-99 Outbacks and some L's. But I'd like to work smart(yea - I know - it's a challange). Volts at fuel pump should be? I'm not an electrical wizard. I had a friend help for a few minutes. He said he got some voltage but at that point my jump box was about dead. I don't even know what he was jumping to get the reading - I was turning the key at that point. If there a way to test the relay? The fact that he got some voltage means it's likely the pump? This car's inspection was up in 2007 and it's wrecked in the side so I'm sure it's been setting. Tow Truck driver probably did in the shifter since the car had no key.