davebugs

They were the only game in town other than the dealer for parking brake shoes that I needed for a 97 OBW. Seems weird that the regular pads they wouldn't stock. I use Wagner Thermo Quiet's anyways.

Now that would be way, way over my head.

No ABS light but typically twice at different speed slowing from 55 to 0 ABS kicks in for a few pulses. All sensors read some AC current when spinning by hand. G-force thing in console swapped out with no improvement. Pull ABS fuse ABS light comes on. No ABS but stops just fine. Tone rings especially on the front look bad but usually this triggers the light. This will be a low dollar car (121k and will sell for under 2k I believe). So I don't wanna spend forever chasing the porblem and I have a 97 OBW to steal parts from. What's next - ABS unit and how much of a b$itch to bleed. Take it to the dealer (and add significantly to the selling price). Pull the fuse and have no ABS? If I find the connectors under the dash will they flash anything if no ABS light is on? It's certainly had enough cycles to turn the ABS light on if something is truely wrong. He says no new codes (just had the battery disconnected to swap the G-force sensor). He'll recheck for codes this morning and then I'll research and post any if htere are any.

I'm still thinking slave cylinder. I usually buy 95-99's that have 100-200k on them needing repaired. I had a stretch last summer where 5 of 6 manual trans cars had the slave fail immediatley or soon after the engine removal and install. I'm guessing it's a combination of age, miles, and the fact that perhaps it gets "over extended" while the engine is out of the car or something. Them's pretty good odds. So now I just budget the 50 bucks for a slave along with clutct kit and flywheel resurface on all manual ltranny's.

Brand of the plug wires on 2.5's is VERY important. They need to be OEM it seems. Red with the name Yasaki (or something) usually. Hope you installed good old (and cheap) BKR5E-11's with the GREEN writing. Update you profile with a better idea of where you are incase a member is close that may be able to help or have spare parts. What brand is the coil pack? Youi're hopeing for Diamond.

Answer GG's question about the BRAND of plug wires. If you did I missed it. Going out on a limb it may be the alternator. They do funny things on Suby's. You loose top end. Almost like fuel filter or cat is clogged. SOme of the symptoms that you described. There was a recent threat here. Easy enough to remove and have checked. Also what brand of timing belt? I use Dayco and they don't seem to line up exactly on DOHC 2.5's

I've done both. The aftermarket kits with the springs don't fit well (as in clearnace to tighten ) on the 95 an up's that I work on. Sometimes I go with straight bolts. I just anti-seize it well so that perhaps the next fella has a prayer.

Bummer. I've sold a few used cam sprockets but I've never had or seen one fail - and I get a lot of broken cars. If you go used and noone closer had one let me know. I believe I'll have to start to tear down a complete engine with bad bearings to get the parts. Did you remember to pull the pin on the tensioner? Did all seem well when you made 2 complete revolutions as part of teh TB replacement?

SOme have a nut inside the car behind some plastic above the tallight assy IIR. I have a few struts laying around - I'll see if I can foind them tonight and refresh myself

Do you have the nut off of it?

I've learned that the MMO really works on Suby's. I try and put a 100-500 miles on the car and change the oil and filter. MMO thins out the oil and makes it smell good (no kidding). I use 4 qts of 5w30 and 1 qt of MMO (A little less on 2.2's of the 5w30). I don't believe in synthetics for engines such as this. Diesels and turbo's yes. Same thing a lot of times with oil analysis. Costs the same as changing the oil, I jsut change the oil. I've seen cases where perhaps the old "break in" oil wasnt' needed but synthetics have caused issues with freshly rebuilt enignes. That have been bored oversized, new rings, etc. These Suby's seem to go 250-300k with normal maintenance and fluids. I still do every 3k. Gotta run.

He did that already. He just did a HG job. When you shake, shake, shake don't forget about the pinhole in the tank. Letting it set in the laundry tub full with cleaner helps. I usually do it with the gravel in there and shake it every so often for a day or so. I pull the overflow when I send the rad out to be flushed on HG jobs. I also try and keep a few already cleaned ones around. Currently I have 3 in the laundry tub. Shook them this morning when doing laundry.

Your favorite cleaner and gravel. Shake, shake, shake.

Excellent deal for whoever is selling it. Not so good for you. There was a time when the salesman made more on the extended warranty than on selling the car. That should give you some idea of the margins. Which should also give you some idea of the money they set aside to fix real problems and how hard it's gonna be to get. I haven't purchased a new car since 2001 when I bought 2. But I doubt things have changed that much.

Flushing and Bleeding may work for a short time. Locally NAPA stocks the slaves, others it takes a day. All are a little over 50 bucks. Can be a pain to bleed. If you can when you bleed it look for Black in the fluid. If so you know some rubber components are failing.

You may wanna soak that puppy. Sometimes they are very difficult to remove and actually break.

My Motive unit has a quick disconnect like an air hose (infact it may be exactly alike - haven't tried). Look around here for a link to instructions on how to make a pressure bleeder from a weed sprayer. He details the process that he used to drill and plumb the cap. I would never use more than 10 PSI on anything. I also don't put fluid in the unit. IIR each cap is like 15+shipping from a Motive dealer on Ebay. I believe the weed sprayer guy optained his cap from the HELP display.

Kept one off the car I scrapped wednesday just incase I want to experiment.

Run out and buy a lottery ticket!! You be lucky!

Hey - atleast you found it. Now you know to go by the dots and hash marks and not the arrows. I would have still expected good compression of the cylinders on the cam that you had set correctly though. It'll be interesting to see how this one works out.

I had been meaning to share my experience with this - I had finally purchased one. Worked super on my 2001 VW that I had purchased a screw on cap for. Was a mess on my 97 Astro rectangle GM reservoir. Couldn't get it to seal. Tried the "universal" round one on a SUbaru (takes chains), leaked, wouldn't hold more than abotu 6 PSI. A friend came over to see how it worked. It did work but the real adapter would have been better. I plan on ordering the Suby adapter and the air cooled VW adapter. GG - is there a good rubber gasket in your adapter? On the van and Suby generics I wondered if it would have sealed better had I pre-wetted the rubber on the generic cap to help seal it. I would guess putting brake fluid on the ridge of the reservoir might do the same thing. On the VW I had the correct adapter and it was a breeze (total brake fluid flush). The van - unacceptable. Suby - worked but not well with the generic adapter.

Thankfully I don't travel like I used to. I didn't have any time to play with cars, go to my place in the mountains, etc. The money was good though. Now I've been doing the "quality of life" thing for about 5 years. Been to Seattle. For a week vacation. I used to have enough free airline tickets and hotel stays that I'd give her choice of where to vacation. One year she picked going to Seattle with her sister and her husband. Only time we ever vacationed with others. You folks are WAY left of me. Did the culture things. I talked the others (another couple and ourselves) into the "Ride the Ducks" tour. It was the most fun we had! The VW sculpture under the bridge was another high point. Thanks for the offer. Glad you got it done. Don't forget to add MMO when filling the crankcase. It still won't quiet down until after it's driven 10-20 miles. And especially if it was a 2.5 follow the burping procedures here.

I believe that's exactly how most of the poisons work. They go looking for water, which causes their blood to thin out and they bleed to death. Gotta make sure the toilet lid is closed at the place in the mountains. They don't ferment well. Infact I believe it's vitamin K that's a blood thickener that the vet needs to give a pet that has eaten one of these dead animals.

I told you in general. Have the Kubota support the engine, a jack support the tranny. Get under there and PUSH on the oil pan from the front. I never could find a good spot to use a pry bar. You wanna take all the weight that you can off all the mounts to make it easier to move the whole assy back. Appropriate grunting and swearing seems to help.

I believe Skip has used the Kubota method. I know he used the Kubota to pull the pump in his water well last summer. Skip has a sweet setup that I have aquired the parts for but haven't done yet. He mounted an ATV winch to his cherry picker. Allows power in and out with like a 20' remote. Since I'm usually doing this myself this idea is genious! I picked up a cheap (50 bucks) Harbor Freight winch but haven't gotten it mounted yet. Glad you got it all back in. When the whole drive line gets pulled forward like that there really isn't a good pry point. But just getting some leverage for your body and pushing hard does it.