davebugs

Hash marks only!!! Ignore arrows and such.

I get mine (when I can due to time constraints) from Ebay. I get the Valeo ones and pay like another 20 bucks to get the one with all American and Japanese parts. For 20 bucks less you get parts from all over the world in the kit. Valeo is a major OEM supplier. I used to obtain most clutches loacal in a kit named "Rhino Pak" and the actual clutches (and some other components) were Valeo it's just on Ebay they are much cheaper. I always get the flywheel surfaced - but a lot of folks don't.

Possible knock sensor? Runs sluggish? Look at it and see if it's cracked for a start.

o.k. lets start with year, model, engine that should have been in the original post. For the 95-99's I use Advance's universal stuff - looks like Mountain Dew. Of course I'm pulling the engine and doing the heads or swapping engines, typically having the rad flushed and pressure tested. So I have most of the coolant out of the system. In the later model and 6 cylinder cars I'd probably pay up for the dealer stuff.

There was a rash of these last year suddenly. I sold 3 in a few weeks and that's all that I sold last year. Do some additional research. I'd consider swapping the whole throttle body rather than trying to set that sensor. I'm a little electrically challanged though. So resetting it looks lika e huge pain to me. The screws that hold in that sensor I use an impact on - they are easy to screw up the heads on.

That IS the ignitor.

If you're lifting a 2.2 or 2.5 there is a tab where the eng/trans meets by where you disconnect the wireing on the back. Then on the drivers front I use the alternator bracket where the AC compressor was. Doesn't perfectly balance but it's not bad. Neither of those are sharp.

I use a beam that has 2 short chains. Has a crank to change the fulcrum(?) point to change the pitch of the engine. I think it was 50 bucks? Most auto parts that carry "engine crane's" have them. Otherwise I'd just go to the hardware store. Noone will be under the engine anyways. You're assuming the risk though.

Dot and hash marks(dot has a hash mark on the back anyways just under the cam sensor on the block. . NEVER arrows or anything else. Hash marks on the cam sprockets and the timing belt covers

I used to run gates belts and hoses. They are difficult to obtain locally anymore. I have been using Dayco for several years with no issues for timing and accessory belts. Radiator hoses as well. The "house brands" I have only bought one time to get a car home at Advance. It was crap. I'm feeling better about the Dayco belts and hoses as several I've installed in Subaru's and VW's have 100k+ on them. Probably 6 years ago I had issues with a gates hose and belt in the same week. Until that unlucky week that had always served me well. Never tried the Goodyear products but the place I buy my idlers from online I believe has them as an option now. So perhaps it's worth checking with them "theimportexperts.com".

Do some searching. It's done all the time. Infact there are a few active threads on it now with folks having minor issues.

When this usually happens you often need to mess with the vacuum line plumbing around the EGR, Throttle Body, and above the intake for cylinder#3 where they are tied into the intake. What year car are you working on? I'm guessing atleast a 97 but for sure 98 & 99's don't have the canister up front. I do enough that I get confused. Might be helpful to other folks trying to help you out knowing what year the car is and the 2.2 going in.

Is htat sensor really behind the harmonic balancer on the tip - if so it's the crank sensor. IIR the alternator makes it a bit tough to get to. The cam sensor is more "at the corner" of the engine on the drivers side, the top corner by the oil dipstick.

Glad you got it wrapped up!

Thanks for the thought folks. I still haven't decided what to do. I would have the capital, and ability to get it manufactured - those aren't the main issues. I'm semi-retired from computerizing manufacturers for over 25 years. Including a lot of machine shops - at one time a lot of steel was actually made here locally to Pittsburgh. I'ts the marketing and stealing of the idea that are or concern to me. As you would imagine the item could easily be copied. I'll also know more about cost next week. My friend is getting pricing on bar stock and tubing, etc. The first one he made from stuff he had left from other jobs. He's also gonna program the CNC rather than doing it manual like the first time. Other than that I may be looking for a source for a 12mm bolt 9.5 inches long overall - we used allthread on the first set and double nutted and welded them, the other end was tapped. I was just gonna try Fastenal and stuff for those. Anyone have any suggestions on where to buy these? Again thanks for the thoughts.

I emailed them and got back a form letter. With an idea non-discolsure agreement which says some things I didn't care for. Here is an attempt at the cut/paste: The Idea Disclosure Agreement information you requested is attached for you to fill out and mail in or fax us the information. If you want to send in a working model along with the Idea Disclosure Agreement, this will aid in evaluating the idea. However, it is not absolutely necessary that we have this. A drawing, picture or sketch will usually be sufficient. If a model is sent, it will be returned after our evaluation. Lisle Corporation has conducted an active idea submission program for over 35 years. We currently make regular royalty or award payments to over 120 individuals whose idea submissions were selected based on our evaluation. In our evaluation process, we typically make prototype tools and solicit opinions from automotive mechanics. For this reason all submissions are non-confidential. There are several things that we consider when evaluating a new tool idea. It should be related to the automotive or the heavy duty repair field and fit into our automotive specialty tool line. It should appeal to a mechanic because it makes a job faster, easier, safer or has an advantage over any similar tool on the market. After we evaluate your tool, we will advise you regarding the outcome of our evaluation and may offer an Award or a Royalty Agreement that provides for payments based on a percentage of the net selling price received by the company for a period of ten (10) years or, if patents are involved, for the life of the patents. The offer is based on numerous factors, including but not limited to, date of submission, identification of the problem being solved, originality, status of patent protection and other factors. Also, depending upon the circumstances, we may work with you to obtain patent protection. The decision of Lisle Corporation with respect to the offer of an award or royalty is solely at the discretion of Lisle Corporation and is final. We appreciate you contacting us and will look forward to receiving your submission. Sincerely, ---------------------------------------------- What I didn't like is why have an idea disclosure agreement when they say in the 3rd paragraph that things submitted are "non-confidential". And this statement at the end: "The decision of Lisle Corporation with respect to the offer of an award or royalty is solely at the discretion of Lisle Corporation and is final. " A paranoid reading is - yea - send it in. We'll loan it out to other folks who may copy it. Or if we like it there is no negotiation on our offer. I buy and use a lot of Lisle specialty tools. But it hardly sounds like they'd be a good partner to me. Am I missing something? Give us your idea, if we don't steal it, we'll make you a one time offer. Doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies. Tool is similar to bearing pullers but very specifically for MarkIV VW axle bushings. Literally cuts the job from 5.5 to about 2 hours. The 5.5 is using the factory tool (and assorted swear words). The 2.0 or so is using mine. Only takes 5 minutes max to install each new bushing. Axle doesn't get removed from the car, etc. Market would be every VW dealer (who are obligated to buy the 900.00 VW set), and all independent VW shops, and folks like me that work on their cars. Not a huge market, but I already developed the tool for myself. So that part is already done. Just thought my friend with the machine shop could get some work out of it and I could perhaps make a few bucks. I just don't want to get ripped off. If it doesn't sell (or isn't worth the effort) I can handle that. Getting ripped off though would really piss me off!

I agree - keep what you can local. I have an excellent shop that does nothing but heads for all types of vehicles. Cars, trucks, tractors, airplaines and that's where mine go. To have them checked for cracks and other issues, surfaced, and cleaned it's usually about 125 or so for the pair and they do them in a day(overnight actually). I ask them about valve stem seals - and they simply say they don't go bad on Subaru's. But they'll install them if I'd like. The first several sets of heads with close to 200k on them I was a bit concerned. Turns out Suby valve stem seals aren't even that easy to get compared to other cars. Several of those cars now are approaching another 100k and still are fine. So they must hold up well. I don't have them fix bent valves because I have enough sets of heads around here.

I think there used to be some folks advertising here with rebuilt heads - or perhaps it was just cams. But I can't speak to price or quality. Please update your city - so that I can tell where you are at.

I've seen louvered "hoods" in the front with a rad - mostly for the V6 and V8 swaps. Mounted in the rear engine or rear roof usually with electric fans. I never really payed much attention since I was trying to stay air cooled. Considered Corvair (since it's aircooled and a common swap) but they are getting harder to find. Hod a Corvair Monza motor in an offroad buggy years ago. Only issue was trying to keep the front end on the ground long enough to turn!

I have a few friends trying to talk me into putting one of the good 2.2's that I have (95, 96,97) setting here into my street legal buggy since the VW 1600 in it is "tired". I assume Kennedy engineering makes an adapter plate. I also assume the enigne spins the correct way. For one swap (perhaps Corvair) I believe you needed to play basically with the ring and pinion since the engine spun the other way. The rad and associated plumbing is my main reason for not attempting the swap. I won't cutup the blue Metalflake gelcoat body. I guess I should search the web someday. One would think it a semi-common swap.

Funny. The first 2.2 version I had issues with pins bending. Had a better one made for 2.5's. Now having a 2.2 and 2.5 version made without handles. I told him I was torqueing to 180 lbs (as I often actuall do). We'll see how they all work. I have the garage tied up with my VW bus, a 2.2 to pull on the trailer (parts or car for sale in appropriate sections here at USMB) and a 96 2.5 to do HG's or swap this 2.2 into. But it'll be a week or so. What I would like to do is be able to make these, sell them for 40 bucks, and my friend whose shop is slow and myself make just a few bucks. He has machines idle at the present time. Time will tell if that's doable. I'm getting a few made anyways. I know I'd have gladly spent 50 bucks (with shipping I'm guessing) rather than over 100 for the Subaru tool or using some of the methods some of the inventive folks here have come up with. I'll see if I can get the cam tool made if there is demand. I can probably actuall borrow the official Subaru tool and I can surely come up with more cam sprockets. I've just never needed to use one so that wasn't a source of "pain" for me. I still see no reason for the flywheel lock if you have a tool for the harmoinc balancer. I mean I have a flywheel here, certainly have engine cases I'm just not seeing the real benefit - atleast not for what I'm usually doing (timing belt and front seal jobs. What other uses would it have?

I had a friend borrow some cam sprockets to make the cam holder tool (I assume that's what you mean for installing the timing belt on a DOHC when the driver side in under load?). But he got laid off before he could use the waterjet to create the tool. The flywheel lock. I see that as limited use(manual tranny's only) and unnecessary if you have the harmonic balancer tool. Am I missing something or mis-understanding you(either is defninately possible)?

Part Subaru and part VW and wanted the ability to edit so I posted it here. (I hope we can edit here). I created some tools for doing rear axle busing on VW MarkIV's. The mechaincs at the local dealer LOVED them. I'm getting more made. The question is the set will probably sell for 200 or less. Anyone here ever developed a tool before. Or more accurately bother producing, or patenting, or partnering (with Lisle for instance), that kinda stuff? I will probably have Subaru Harmonic balancer tools for sale soon as well. Yea - I know folks use workarounds. I won't on something this major. I have 2 sets now with handles as part of the tool(lets say 2.2's and the other for 2.5's). He's making me some with a slot for a brealer bar so shipping would be less(no handle). No - designing and/or selling tools isn't my business. But I'm getting them made for my own use so the development is already done. I'm shooting for about 40 bucks on the harmonic balancer tool but I won't know until he's done. That would be about 1/3 of the Subaru tool. And more importantly potentially same future issues from not getting the crank bolt tight. And at an affordable price so folks can afford to do things right. Any thoughts welcomed.

When you redo this IGNORE ALL ARROWS!!!! Hash marks only!! And the dot on the front of the crank with the matching hash mark on the back. But just remember hash marks - ignore all else. Hash marks on the crank, on the block by the crank sensor, cam sprockets, timing belt covers. All arrows lead straight to hell it seems. Your personal temporary hell.

I have several sets of heads that I'd sell if you can't find any locally. Don't know what shipping would be though. All I have heard run. Some on engines with HG issues, some on engines with bearing issues. 96 through 98's I believe with a lot of 97 2.5's. But I won't have the time to pull any until next week if you'd like them. I usually don't pull good heads until they are sold. Better protected that way.