davebugs

Yea. Actually I hit them with a little piece of scotchbrite first, then just a dab of lube(not anti-seize) on the little flat surfaces meant to steady the shoes. I forget how many spots per shoe but I believe atleast 2 and not more than 4 - but I could be wrong. Most of the time I use anti-seize and caliper grease in about the same way other then slider pins (always get lube). Don't know why I chose lube for the backing plates. Lately when tearing apart other folks work I'm seeing what looks like hard anti-seize. Of course I can't even tell if it was anti-seize or in some cases thread locker(yes I realize thats the other end of the spectrum). On nuts/bolts I still use antiseize and not lube.

The O2 sensors move around a bit. But the front one around your year range is always by the first cat (after the Y pipe) typically in the cat itself. Atleast some 99's seem to have 2 O2's in the front cat. Typically the first one is the hardest to access pointing upwards/frontwards and is at the start of the foist cat. The second one can vary greatly(I'm sure by year it makes some sense - but they vary widely). If nothing else follow the single(?) wire on the passenger side that goes down to the O2 sensor. It's tied to the end/trans lower right bolt by a kind of twist tie. It's little connector is very roughly near the 3 large connectors under the black plastic intake box where the trans meets the engine. This small connector is in the vacinity. If you look in there towards the axle where it meets the transaxle you should see it. Just follow that. Heat shields can be sharp so watch your hands, find some gloves, etc.

You need to make surre the fans work but they could be interfeering with your diagnosis since I believe atleast one of them runs the entire time the AC is on. When you're checking for overheating I DON'T run the AC. There is an excellent link to a youtube burping video around here somewhere. It along with pulling the front tire nearest the radiator cap onto a ramp and fillign through the top hose has worked everytime for me. Often I don't have it on a ramo though since I've just done an engine swap, HG job, whatever and the car is already setting flat. Only 2 times have I had an issue. One time someone "helped" me when I had run down to the house and filled the rad (not the engine through the top hose). I ended up draining and refilling through the hose. Other time was recently and a bad aftermarket thermostat.

Last one I had lube on the backing plates solved it - an Impreza IIR. I had a friend help. I pulled the workings out a bit and he put some lube back there for me. Shoes looked good. I didn't even dis-assemble anything but removing the drum.

7/8" box wrench and your favorite penetrating oil, and a hammer to break it free. I'd try and get it in the air as much as possible. If you unplug it the box end will fit over the connector.

I agree. That's why I asked if he had successfully done one. Rather than my usual response to use dots and hask marks rather than arrows and such and going down that road. Perhaps he installed a used enigne and didn't put a new belt on it? If he did I bet he won't do that again.

I still have a few engines.

Glad it worked for you. We like happy endings and resolutions to threads. Mileage like that can't be good for cats and they are expensive.

I don't know when the actual cutoff is by model and build date but it certainly sounds like it's interference. Then again perhaps the engine had already been swapped in the car in the JY.

Did you make a few complete revolutions with the crank and observe the pistons? I assume that you've done this before? And that you are positive of what marks you're using?

You gotta quit drinking like that! Who in the world maintained that car?

Well then. Things are looking up. Get the proper gaskets and torque sequence and you should be good for another 100k or so.

Oops. I'm getting as sloppy as the local mechanic. Overheating I automatically assumed was a 2.5. Yea - try the cheap and easy stuff first. Remember to drain then fill coolant through the top rad hose.

He should be able to get it out. Heck I just stock a few of those bolts now. Common issue. You may need a caliper bracket though. I usually replace them when this happens.

Search for "head gaskets" unless they were recently done using Suby gaskets. And even then if done wrong it could still be HG's. I don't think the AC has anything to do with it. After all how did the original bubble get into the cooling system? If you're sure it was burped it's probably HG's. Welcome to a large club.

I deal mostly with the older stuff (95-2000). 2.2's are seemingly bullet proof. Especially the 95's but that's older than you're looking for. 2.5's - well choose your HG ussue preference. But it's really the rod knock that bothers me about them. HG's are fixable. GF has a 2006 Impreza with probably 70-80k (I forget) that has been trouble free. It has a 2.5. Only comment on it was to make sure you service the tranny. I started a thread last year (IIR) about how dirty the fluid was after like 50k miles. Plugs are a PITA but not as bad as the DOHC 2.5's. I hope the HG issues are truely cured. But I just don't know much about the newer stuff.

Blue smoke could be from changing plugs and getting oil in there. On a 95 I think the plugs are in the middle of the heads and there are Orings around the plugs. But the last few I did were DOHC's and 97 2.2's so I haven't seen a 95 recently but I do have one on the trailer. Just too lazy to go out in the dark and look at it. Or if the engine was on a stand and you twirled it around someitmes that seems to cause it. CEL with no codes doesn't sound kosher. You need a better reader. My 50 dollar one works well so I wonder what you're using. Did you look at how yucky the throttle body was when doing the swap? Did the engine run without hesitation in the 95? You had to redo some small vacuum lines due to the charcoal canister being moved from the front (on the 95) to the rear (on the 99) so perhaps something went wrong there. I forget what goes where but I think you may end up plugging one of the holes in the intake manifold above cylinder #3. I get them mixed up what year engines into what year car body's causes which work arounds. All things to check. Does it still burn blue at the start? If you get a CEL you really should be getting a code and probably pending code(s).

Come to think of it I just sold one that had about 3 extra quarts of ATF in it and I never checked the diff level. I was in a hurry - car was basically sold before I fixed it. Family wanted the car ASAP. Tranny/diff didn't whine though. They saw the rear diff was weeping so I pulled that plug and fluid started oozing out. Never thought of checking the front. Perhaps I missed a potential issue. Bummer. Usually I'm pretty darn thorough.

At this point drain them both and start over. Both get filled through the dipsticks. The short passenger side one gets gear oil. Less than 2 quarts. The long one with a yellow top dipstick should take 3.5 or so - between 3 and 4 quarts it seems(see torgue converter, etc. discussions) of ATF. Let us know what you get out of each. Color and qty.

You may not be too bad off. Definately not as bad as if you put diff oil into the auto trans. The diff takes less than 2 quarts. Drain it and fill it with the correct stuff like 80w90 or whatever gear oil. I forget - it's up in the garage. Check the ATF level - it is probably real low if you originally drained red/dirty fluid. Figure adding roughly 3.5 quarts there. May be worth removing the 17mm drain on the ATF again so that you are sure you're starting with the pan empty. Fill it through the same hole that you used to check it on the long dipstick with a yellow top. The dipstick with a metal loop pic where the new gear oil goes. Take your time. Do one at a time. If this works you'll probably end up drain/filling the diff again after a few miles (atleast I would).

You filled the DIFF!!!!!! The ATF is by the brake booster on the drivers side hidden by some hoses - where you check the ATF at - same hole. On the passenger side way down on the tranny is where the DIFF fluid goes. Now you need to drain that. It's supposed to be heavy oil in there (and probably non-detergent). Certainly not light high detergent ATF.

Wondered how the turbo diesel was doing. I drive a VW TDI everyday now. Actually I have 2 right now an auto that gets 40 mpg and a 5 speed that gets 50 mpg (that's for sale). I'm with those that can't wait to get a Subaru diesel with the torque, AWD, and longevity of the diesel. Emissions - well, sore subject. My VW exhaust STINKS since VW put a cat on it. I'd much rather smell regular diesel exhaust. By the time the diesel gets here I wonder how effective GM and Mopar will be with all the gov't and union involvement. I would suspect protectionist measures since I doubt our native vehicles will be competitive in 5-10 years. They will be designed with the interests of the gov't and unions rather than the consumer. I see "foreign cars" becoming the method to fill the gap of what customers really want even more than now. For the first time in over 25 years I'll actually evaluate a Ford for my next new vehicle (truck/van).

It's too late now but next time. Check the fluid while it's dirty and easy to read. Drain the fluid and measure it. Put the same qty of fresh ATF back in (clean ATF is MUCH harder to read). I'm thinking it's 3-4 quarts usually. Last one was overfilled several quarts so that one has me not remembering what is correct(between the Pella and then draining it I got 7 quarts!). But I think I added 3.5 quarts or so.

Tried it on an 06 Impreza today without success but it could be because when I got in the car she just HAD TO HAVE THE OTHER DOOR UNLOCKED she couldn't WAIT until I did the 30 second precedure. Anyone have a woman like that? How long did you keep her around? It's her car - I'm the one that doesn't wear the seatbelt and her son is too large for it to fit around. I didn't have the patience to try it again today. So I'd be curious on what years/models it works on.

You can loosen the gas cap. But you're gonna get fuel. Just place a rag under it to catch the fuel and a rag over it so it doen't spray in your face. After the new filter is installed cycle the key a few times (fuel pump runs) and you're good to go.