davebugs

Gotta have an EGR (95 automatic). Do some searching around here. Common swap. Welcome to the board. Lost of useful info and folks around here.

I still have a 97 OBW complete if that stuff will work drop me a PM and let me know what you'd like and are willing to pay. Running/driving car with no Airbag light on so the clock spring is o.k. - or atleast it was when I parked it probably mid summer.

A true pan leak would be rare as already pointed out. Usually it's the Crank or oil pump if wet in the front, baffle plate if wet on teh back. Only pan I've ever had that leaked was rusted through, the seal was fine. Oh - they can be a bit of a pain to pry off - to get started that is. And space is a problem as GG said. You'll end up pulling the engine to do it. Might as well do any other maintenance. But start with seals as already stated. Odds are pretty good the pan (and seal to the engine) are o.k.

Excellent burping video link around here somewhere. Be patient with it. The fluids are a seperate problem. Did you mess with tranny or diff at all? Someone here recently put the new ATF in the wrong hole.

I bought a Gator Grip stubby ratchet and socket set years ago. I've used it twice(the socket) in a punch. Definately has paid for itself. I've even found myself using it when not necessary on things like tight wingnuts on the lawn mower. Cheesy but works. Had to be a tight fit into the hole to get to that bolt though.

What GG said. I prefer letting it set overnight. When I pull an engine I clean and seal the baffle plate before even putting it on the engine stand. I do the oil pump ASAP before even cleaning up the timing belt covers, installing new spark plugs, etc to give it the most time possible. I try for a minimum of 4 hours. Even if I gotta kill time doing unrelated stuff or eating. Only one time have I waited only an hour or so and that car I started a thread about here with pics. It had a loose harmonic balancer that a Suby tech and I fixed - the keyway, key oil pump, balancer and covers. Not used to having help. We had it out, fixed, timing belt, baffle plate, etc. and back in and running in the same afternoon with no leaks. About 3 hours overall IIR and would have been quicker except I was out of Exhaust gaskets and had to make a trip. I only use Ultra Grey on Subaru's.

I get them off Ebay - atleast that's where I find to buy them. I haven't needed any in a year or so. I typically buy Rhino-Pak kits locally and they typically have Valeo clutch disc, etc. for 250. Cheaper than Advance and Auto Zone locally. I can get the cheapest Valeo kit for lets say 150, or for 200 get a Valeo kit with all USA and Japan parts - and that's the kit I get. Shipping included. These prices are roughly what I remember, and probably have changed. But Valeo is a well known OEM and aftermarket supplier, I don't worry about high performance If I have the time to wait I order the clutch kit at the same time I order the timing belt/idlers from the importexperts. I also drop the flywheel to be checked and cut.

Best way - disconnect rear drive shaft at the rear. Next best - fuse in FWD place by pass side strut tower/firewall. This is definatley second choice - althought I've had pretty good luck using it. If I do I try and start the car every so often (but you said this one wouldn't run). Third - hire someone with a flatbed. More expensive but may be cheap in the long run.

Very popular choice in the VW/Audi crowd who generally consider themselves "driving enthusiests". I've used them myself on VW's. Usually paired with Mintex pads (red box). Definately a major manufacturer - not a fly by night. Have worked well for me on early 2000's VW's. On Suby's I use a variety of rotors and Wagner Thermo-Queit pads Anymore I usually just end up getting Advance Auto's best rotors. I used to get the "Quality" brand chinese but had some issues with some of my own vehicles with them. I always got the best pads (without getting exotic). And since Bendix and Raybestos seem to be getting more difficult to get and pricey I typically get the ones from Advance. It's really a personal choice. Almost like the oil wars. By the time a car is worn out you finally figure out what parts worked best. OT - but for instance. On my 2001 VW Golf Diesel. OEM fronts lasted 100k, rears 60k (typical for VW). But I'll concentrate on the fronts. OEM 100k. Brembo 60k Chinese (with old pads for first time in my life - pads were only half worn, I scufed them, made sure they were flat, etc) 11k Went back to OEM. Ironically The pricing on these parts was consistent with the miles of service. OEM 100k 100.00 Brembo 60k 60.00 Chinese 11k 12.50 Just boils down to how many times you want to do the job. And other than the one time I pointed to here I always replace rotors and pads at the same time so when rotors wear out you gotta add the cost of the pads. Good luck.

Don't know but it'll probably work. Ultra Grey is a Permatex Product I believe. It seems to set up a bit more stoudt than a lot of silicones. No matter what you use just don't get carried away with it.

Search here for endwrench articles. I gotta go for the family Cmas dinner soon. There are actually 2 of those skinny Orings. The other one is more difficult for me. It's on the back side of the Pass side head at the back of the cam. The plate that it goes over is a very close machine fit. They can be a bugger to work back it - sometimes I walk it in using the 2 bolts. The Oring kit comes with 2 in the pack. For a 2.2 here is my parts list. Actually I just keep it in an old WP box - one set for 2.2 and one set for 2.5 DOHC's. It contains empty packages from the parts I used last time for the 2.2: Crank seal - OEM Cam seals OEM earlier 2.2's Oring set - OEM Oil pump Oring - OEM WP Gasket - OEM you'll need ultra grey for the oil pump, and baffle plate if you do it. NGK plugs Timing Belt (usually Dayco) Both accessory belts(Dayco). Combine this with the internet kit for all the idlers and perhaps the timing belt. I broke down and got a Lisle seal puller for maybe 20 bucks. Poke around it's been discussed here. I used to use pick's, screwdrivers, etc. As usual the correct tool is the way to go if you can. I'd hate to learn about one of those sleeve kits after knicking a cam - but I've done many without the tool. The baffle plate is the thing that leaks that couses oil to leak onto the Ypipe that most folks unfirmiliar with Suby's think is the rear main seal. It's very easy to fix - after you pull the engine or trans. Some folks install a new thermostat while they are at it. Folks recommend OEM for them as well. I haven't really had issues with aftermarket ones but they are MUCH smaller. And I've bought cars w/overheating issues that the aftermarket ones have been in backwards. I don't even know if an OEM would fit backwards. Gotta run. But seriousely there are some excellent links here to follow. I had some saved but this laptop died a few weeks ago and I hadn't saved bookmarks lately.

IIR crank and cam seals from the Dealer are maybe 10 bucks each (really I think about 8 bucks). And this is a case where I always go OEM. I also like the OEM WP gasket, I just do it all - like Gary says. Infact since you have a 95 occasionally I'll use the cheap belt that comes with the internet kits. Often the kit is cheaper with the belt than buying the idlers seperate. I have a collection of the MitsubOshi belts since I'll only install them on the 95 2.2's just in case. A new Dayco is like 35.00 IIR. I just do it all, oil pump Oring, the 2 Big thin Orings, WP, the whole deal. It's not much more time at all and then it's all done. Only thing to stuill worry about is the baffle plate leak. Valve Covers are easy enough if they leak. I usually do new NGK plugs and evaluate the wires while I'm at it. If you pull the rad I just do new coolant. If you're planning on having the car a while I'd just do it all. And if you're thinking of selling it in the future most folks can't seem to quantify what major maintenance like this will cost so it's an easier sell if it's been done.

To start with to break them loose do it while the Timing belt is still on!!! Then you only have to worry about tightening. - And you may be using the old belt for that. There are several methods. If noone replies just do some searching.

MMO, let it warm up. Take for a "spirited" drive. I wait until cold and start and listen closely for rod knock. Then I typically run until warm and change oil and filter again. Usually it's just from setting. BTW this even happens after doing HG's on 2.5's sometimes. Odds are pretty darn good that you're o.k.

I still have some if you end up needing one. Actually the whole throttle body.

I looked years ago - with no success. The "normal" panel makers must think there aren't enough Suby's to make it worth their while. Kinda funny while they all beat each up on price for Honda, Toyota, Pickup truck, etc patch panels. If just one would make the same patch panels for Subaru you'd think it would be profitable for them, and terrific for us.

Coolant overflow bottle for yuck - or too fresh. Take it for an hour "spirited" drive. These usually heat up in 30-45 minutes when driven - especially at highway speeds. Listed for rod knock after it's been warmed up(when it's still cold you could be hearding piston slap). Ask about timing belt/WP, Idlers,seals - last time they have been replaced. This year the baffle plate also leaks onto the exhaust. Test Torque bind. Look for matching tires.

Two thoughts. I've broken several bolts for rear caliper brackets - I keep them in stock now. I don't believe I've ever broken a front one, but rears - yea. Second. Search here for "motive pressure bleeder" or similar. It's a PRESSURE beleeder - not a vacuum bleeder. Get the adapter for the Subaru Master Cylinder and it screws right on. Works like a dream and no friend needed. Think about it. How air can expand easily and by a multiple of the volume. Could kinda make it hard to "suck" a bubble out. Now pushing possible air bubble(s) out seems to make a lot more sense. I don't put fluid in the gizmo (depending on the vehicle I need DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5). IIR like 50 bucks, very useful, and should serve me a long time. Also because it's so simple I actually do flush some of my cars brakeing systems that I know otherwise I'd never do because it's so easy. Coolant and brake fluid are the most neglected fluids in a car in my opinion.

I bought the Ryobi lime green 18v Lithium set today. Infact the large battery is charging now. If anyone looks at these a note about selection. First off they were priced at 299, 269 and 229 depending on which display you looked at in Home Depot. Onlive 229. There are 2 nearly identical sets. One has a normal size drill/driver that says it shifts if it needs more power (I got the last set like that at my HD). All the other sets had a compact drill/driver. Everything else (including the price) seemed to be the same. So depending on which drill/driver you may prefer pay attention and look for the set that you like. I hope to start to use them next weekend.

I'm pretty darn sure that Black & Decker "created" DeWalt. I also think that possibly someone just purchased Black & Decker - like maybe Stanley Tools - infact the buyout may not even be completed. Makita I have some corded tools and they do well. No current Bosch tools (just tons of Bosch parts on my 9 VW's). I have some DeWalt drill/drivers and the only thing I don't like it the price. The tools I buy may be used by others so I'd hate to pay top dollar to have stuff get broken, missing, etc. Rigid - I still think plumbing tools from before Home Depot existed and they rounded out their product line for retail. About the same time they stopped making their OUTSTANDING calanders. So I haven't owned one. The battery life is key since the house doesn't have utilities (foreclosure) so I'm gonna leave my generator there probably - the neighbors keep a pretty good eye on the place. So I'll be working in the cold (not friendly to batteries) and recharging will be a little more involved than usual. Based on your guesses perhaps I'll compare Ryobi and Rigid - I expect DeWalt to be too expensive. Wonder if like most things there are only a few manufacturers that truely make the items and they are just branded differently. Like lets say the appliance world. Come to think of it I haven't checked Ebay for kicks.

Third vote for engine. Easy, and take advantage or doing maintenance. If maintenance is up to date still do the baffle plate.

Somewhat OT, and don't mean to hijack the thread. I love Sears hand tools. But long ago swore to never buy anything Sears again with a motor. What can I say - it works for me. I'm in the market for a kit of rechargable things for a house I recently purchased. Not an Impact - but the normal drill/driver, sawzall, circular, and light. Looking like probably 18 or so volt and Lithium appears to be worth the money. I have 2 older Dewalt 12 or 14 volt (I forget) drill/driver sets. The newer drill kinda burnt up/smokes and all the batteries have seen better days. I want good quality stuff, but it doesn't have to be top of the line. It'll get used but probably not worn out and most likely the technology will be outdated in a few years. Counting this new house I'll basically have 4 places to take care of/normal maintenance and projects. In doing some research tonight Ryobi at HD is looking like a decent choice and I've never owned one of their products. Anyone with any comments on them, or recommend other brands to evaluate or avoid? Lowes has a decent looking Skil set but I don't recall if it was Lithium. Last Skill stuff I owned had full metal cases so I have no idea of the current quality. It does seem like Porter Cable has gone down hill a bit since I last purchased some of their stuff 20 years ago. Comments please.

You're gonna want OEM seals (crank & cam) oil pump Oring. Ultra-Grey for Oil pump cover, baffle plate if you pull the engine. I usually get OEM or Felpro for intake and exhaust but often it just depends if I'm local or making a trip to the dealer for parts. Valve Cover I usually use fel-pro. Haven't had a problem and they aren't that "deep" into the engine if there is an issue with them. Often the OEM gaskets are similar in price to aftermarket (I know the exhaust ones are).

Unpopular item to sell. Don't even know how much of the assy to remove. I have a 97 IBW Grey interior that I beileve they are o.k. in if noone slcoser speaks up. The belt itself I can't imagine is worth much. The labor to remove, packaging and stuff may be.

Search here. Well covered. Look for links. Best to disconnect the cable at the floor.