davebugs

Rent or borrow a car. I've had them appear to be fine and the car make it less than 15 miles. Or have a friend pick one up and bring it to you tonight. No need to cause a crisis tomorrow evening!!

I have used this method. Just make sure you're breaker bar will reach by the battery box WITHOUT a cheater bar. I have a snap-on breaker bar that just makes it by about 1/4 inch and it's what I use. Adding a cheater to a shorter bar wouild make it even more dangerous.

Oops - yea that's what I meant. Holds that little piece of black plastic that covers the pulley on the AC unit and is held on by one of the long AC compressor bolts. Because I've forgotten the bracket in the past.

By the alternator to hold the alt belt shroud?

Jamb something into the "window" where the engine meets the trans. Near the center but on the passenger side. The black plug may be in place. Search a little. Someone had this exact same question the last week or so and someone posted a pic from "beergarage". You'll be needing a new pulley/harmonic balancer.

I can tell you from personal experience that the timing belt for a 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC is DIFFERENT than the timing belt for a 2001 and 2002 Legacy 2.5 DOHC. IIR the Legacy ones were longer. Might have caused myself problems but when I really, really couldn't get the 99 belt on to the 2001 I finally called the auto parts. When the 2001 engine proved no good I got a 2000 2.5 SOHC abd the same belt worked on it. Perhaps it was a fluke. But it definately happened to me.

No idea of what the shop looks like. Do you? I've seen it happen from folks who took heads to a general machine shop. The two places I deal with want empty heads "just in case". And they use a grinder/resurfacer. Don't know the technical term. Just trying to help a fella out with where to look to resolve a problem. Sounds like he may have it straightened out now.

If they did any machining at all. Making sure the mating surface was "true" for instance. Didn't notice where you had lubed things on re-assembly. Just looking for a solution.

My place steam cleans them. Locks them into a gizmo that runs some kinda "cycle". Of course they are bare heads. I mark, disassemble, and lay things out. One old oil box for each head. When I re-assemble I use assembly lube. What ever method used to clean (if any) could have removed whatever lube was there. Could be as simple as that. If not dis-assembled and machined, well, are you nuts? Shavings could be anywhere/everywhere.

Can't believe these aren't available after market. Dealer only item.

I had to use a 2000 2.5 SOHC Lego block and put the intake and stuff off a 99 2.5 SOHC Forester on it. The only real issue I had is the timing belts are different by a couple of teeth. But I was swapping in the new block and heads. It was all SOHC.

This has happened to me more than once on Legacy's. Did you reconnect the stiff maybe 1' diameter hose that's hard to see on the bottom of the airbox (for lack of a better derscription). Heads toward the throttle body in general. I don't do many Foresters But it's easy to forget to reconnect that straight hose and it's hard to see that it's off. Symptoms are exactly as you describe.

I'd have to look at my toolbox to see the size. I'm gonna guess 12mm. But someone will know for sure. I haven't done one since early last fall. I use a swivel head 1/4 ratchet - Snap-on or Gearwrench. Some folks have an offset box end they prefer. Especially with the 1/4 ratchet you'll need a cheater bar most times. And something to hold the crank still. I use a tool I had made for the harmonic balancer. Watch you fingers when they break loose. Sometimes I've been known to hit myself in the face, etc. Dont forget to stuff a hunk of rag in there so you dont' loose the bolt. Especially on the re-install. I use it when removing as well.

That's how I do it. Through the window on the top. I do know some folks that do it underneath. I prefer the top. The proper tool really helps since they are tight and access is so limited.

Hopefully someone will post the location of the ECU or youi'll be able to find it using search. I believe the TCU is basically where the passengers feet go. But it could be the ECU. I'd guess the ECU is under the drivers dash - but I've actually never needed to find out.

It looks like the trany is still in the car. Thought you were gonna pull them together?

Basics. Your existing engine is junk. Any used 2.5 would be a crap shoot and you'd need to do HG's, timing belt, idlers, reseal and stuff before installing it. And likely it would have rod knock and the bearings be on their way out. 2.2 is the only way to go in my opinion. Easy sway. Only real "issues" are Y pipe (possibly need it from the donor car), and usually some vacuum line(mostly dealing w/EVAP stuff) and minor rerouting of valve cover breather hoses. And you'll be missing the PS line bracket - but don't worry about it. If you'd update your profile to state what part of the country you're in someone may be able to suggest someone who has done this easy swap before.

try tdiclub.com. really for later VW diesels but the old stuff has it's forums. Generally an excellent board with a lot of activity. Personally I'd never get a car that runs on waste Vegetable oil and such. You can read there some of the horror stories. That said - the older the better on the diesel conversion stuff. Easier tolerated, simpler engines. Check the front strut towers on the VW for rust. I had a 81 diesel pickup. Was pretty shot by the time I got it (rust). I'm 6'2" 235 lbs so I didn't use it for short errands - got tired of crawling in and out. Good luck.

I had a thread on this repair last year with pics I believe. Hardest part was welding the end of the crank and dressing it up with a dremel for the new key. Mine needed an oil pump as well. And of course the center timing belt cover. I removed the engine to do the major maintenance anyway. I would think it would be real difficult to do with the engine in the car.

Yep. You're already here - so you're making progesss already!

In all the 95-99 Suby engines (and a few 2000-2001) I've never noticed the vin# on the engine. Where exactly is it?

Short trips you wouldn't notice a problem. Probably a fair price - assuming it's done correctly. Perhaps someone from USMB is close and can help you out or make recommendations. If you're gonna keep the car do the timing belt, perhaps idlers, etc. Search around here for common "major service" to have done while the engine is out. Don't forget to have the rad flushed. Whoever traded it in knew of the problem and probably tried "miracle cures" for the overheating before trading it in.

Do some searching here on the Cali spec. Seems to me some discussion about especially the shape of the teeth on the cali belt and especially the mating to the cam sprockets. Others may have opinions on the Dayco belts. But they've done well for me.

I use them exclusively on 95-99 Subaru's. I'm usually buying, fixing, and reselling the car. I've probably got close to 100 Dayco TB's on Subaru's with no known problems. I get the Ebay kits for the idlers, and source a metal WP locally, and check/replace the tensioner.

Glad it ended well. They should have handled it. And you shouldn't have needed to learn about it. Good thing you called.