davebugs

Welcome. Lots of good folks and info around here. Chances are you'll meet some of them it seems. A friendly, helpful bunch. Please update Watsontown to also say like "north central PA" or whatever applies. This way you increase your odds of meeting folks, folks possibly lending a hand, etc.

Guesses - MAF - something still cracked/not right. Miss fires - coil pack classic symptoms (for a 1&2, or 3&4 problem). Heads/timing if 1&3 or 2&4. Get a Diamond if possible (rather than generic). MAP code is usualy the small hoses going to that gizmo on the passenger strut tower, or that little quarter sized thing in the middle of a line missing or bad. The 106 doesn't ring any bells of the top of my head. But others will chime in.

I don't think they have much experience with Subaru's. That or the Subaru owners they have dealt with are wealthy and clueless( a more common situation than one might think - rich/clueless). Motor oil smells very different than heavy grease (axle lube, diff lube) but as GG pointed out one time - they all smell the same on the internet (meaning that if you don't know the difference you could easily state the wrong fluid's smell). Run. Run like the wind...

I've heard the TPS can be involved and somewhat difficult to adjust. Therefore I swap the throttle body. But I've sold a few TPS sensors. Takes more electrical expertise than I'm willing to learn to adjust when the new one is installed. So keep that in mind. You may just want to swap the throttle body - and they can vary by the # of little vacuum lines IIR.

Sucky toy!! I have a Pella. Excellent to use for this (as well as oil changes on a lot of cars - on my VW I get MORE out with sucky toy than pulling the plug). Last Suby ATF level I had to mess with I got a little smarter. Layed the Pella tube next to the ATF dipstick and marked the level with a litlte tape. Then I knew just how far down the tube to jamb the pickup tube. I HATE ATF level checking. That's why I usually check the level with the old fluid, measure what I drain, and add back the same amount. Old fluid is so much easier to read. Great gizmo. IIR mine was like 60 bucks years ago. Looks kinda like an old "party ball" beer keg. Sold a lot by marine places.

They frown on in in PA. Had a nice discussion with the officer. I had bought a wrecked 95 Legacy and took it up and down the road to check out the engine and trans. First trip Bungy's broke, hood flew up, smashed windsield, and I was driving with my head out the window at 55mph until I could find a place to pullover (on the left - or course - the only side I could see). So I removed the hood. Yea - drove by a cop. The smashed windshield might have caught his eye... Interesting discussion followed... For hood alignment (and other alignments like when doing struts) I keep a can of dollar store spray paint. I paint the critical area. Sore beats trying to follow any kind of paint stick mark since I never really seem to be able to get the whole way into the corners. This handles that. Now I wouldn't be doing it on a 2010 or anything, but it sure works.

I've done a fes 98 & 99 Foresters, and looked at many more. Found this to be true. Note that this rad I believe is interchangable with an Impreza. Cap is on the "other" side from a Legacy.

SCREWS!! I believe you need new screws for the new baffle plate.

After sucking a little out I add a quart of ATF and usually try and drive it less than 5 miles, then drain it, change filter, etc. You want the car up to operating temp but I wouldn't run it for days or much of a trip. If the car is overfilled and you don't have a sucky toy I'd consider cheap oil and one quart of ATF. Just don't change the filter until you drain this flush batch.

I typically don't exactly take the cheap way out. But I gotta tell you atleast around here on CL and the truck guys still want atleast a couple k for the same sized boxes that are well used. I have Snapon, Matco, and Cornwell carts and some boxes. Over the past year I just haven't been able to find anything close to a deal. Or more appropriately close to the 1k I was willing to pay for another toolbox. If a deal is 3k for a box that retails for 6k that didn't interest me. I don't need a tajmahal. Just a good decent box. Not trying to impress anyone, just a good servicable box. I have a smaller Sears Professional set that's probably 20 years old that's still in excellent shape and definately well used. Time will tell , as usual.

Were the HG's OEM? If not I'd do them. Check the crank/cam seals while it's one, VC gaskets. Heck I'd throw a new set on NGK's in it anyways while it's out and they easy - we're talking less than 10 bucks.

Kind of dangerous. That said in the past I've used ATF (high detergent oil really), some folks used to use rislone. I believe some folks here use MMO shortly before an oil change.

Gary, On my local CL I got a set of torches (large and small victor), a too large homemade cart I've since given away, a bunch of hose and some odds and ends for less than 200. Then I got a propane tip. The tank game is something else. Apparently they can't (or won't)pressure test and recertify these - atleast not without sending them out. I ended up getting small bottles at tractor supply - cheapest and easiest for small stuff compared to my local welding/gas places. IIR for the small bottles you can swap in anything a lot of times - they aren't picky. The larger bottles I think they like theirs back when swapping. For a lot of bolt heating, etc I use propane. I'm hardly an expert and don't attempt to use them for welding. They work well for what I need - just need to get the time to learn to use them better. In short used decent torches, then buy a tip cleaner kit and perhaps some tips will set you up. But a lot of the cost, and certainly ongoing cost is the tanks and gas. You can rent them but that means you're paying for them even when you're not using them. Therefore TSC is open weekends and eve's and I can swap them there and that's worth a few bucks to me.

Ordered the box tonight for 999.98 - black only. Blue was another 500 and stainless another 500 on top of that. Should be in on friday. If you're looking for a box it's the best deal I've found for a large box of apparent decent quality. Atleast for a non-professional.

Baffle plate and oil seperator plate are the same thing. I reseal the plastic ones with Ultra Grey, some folks get new metal ones and the matching screws. The metal one would need sealed as well. I ALWAYS get the flywheel resurfaced. But I do everything completely! No sense not to while you're in there. For instance when I do HG's I almost always send them out to be checked/surfaced even if they are within 4 thousandth's. I also always send the radiators out to be flushed and pressure tested. I leave the rear main seal alone unless it's already been replaced - because if it's been replaced it's likely leaking, if original it's probably not. Thinking of timing belt, crank & cam seals, idlers, etc or just gonna do the complete clutch job?

Get the clips at the dealer that hold the TO bearing. Reseal the baffle plate, leave the rear main seal alone. Check the clutch fork closely for hairline crack. You pulling the trans or engine? I pull the engine and do all the major maintenance and reseal it.

Check the coolant overflow bottle for scum - either oily from HG issues or "magic HG cures". 45 minute ride to see if it suddenly over heates. You can look for evidence of new HG's. If new radiator cap (ans especially WP) and still no new HG's - odds are VERY good it needs them. Ask the old owner what's been done and by who(to make sure they used OEM HG's, got the harmonic balancer tight, etc) Too bad you're so far away - I have 3 or 4 of those used mufflers from cars I've parted. ANy oil smell is likely baffle plate (requires engine pull) or VC gaskets or fromt seals. If you think you're gonna keep it and it's an oil leaker you could just pull the engine and do it all along with timing components abd be set for a very long time.

Often not without swapping the rear diff as well. A GUESS would be the 2.2 is from an L and the 2.5 from an Outback or GT. Don't get me wrong - the tranny will probably bolt up - but you also need the matching diff. And swapping the driveline shouls cause odometer issues. But if you swap both pieces it should work assuming sensors and such are the same.

Thanks for the feedback. My "local" Costco is 50 miles. And the boxes that Sams club, Tractor Supply, and HF have don't excite me much. That 23 drawer box for "Craftsman Club" members starting today for 7 days is 999.98 - a heck of a deal. I can't find anything used to touch that on CL or from one of the truck guys in used. Sure for all out price I may be able to beat that. But I would like decent quality. Haven't decided yet. But started making room to atleast be able to unload it if I get it home. We've got crappy weather heading our way for several days. FYI Usually the craftsman club thing just pre-runs standard sale fliers. So don't be surprised if it's inthe Sears flier and on the website in a week or so. Currently there is zero feedback on the Sears site.

I have had similar problems and it's turned out to be rubber hose plumbing. MAF plugged in? Usually I forget that stiff 1" tube about a foot long on the airbox that's kinda hidden on the pass side. But that causes it to die IIR and not rev before it does. I'd triple check all rubber lines. Vacuum, breather, even make sure the hose clamp holding the airbox to the throttle body has no leaks.

The drivers side intake has compression on it. It want's to be tough right until you get it where you want it, then it spins past where you want it. Look around for excellent procedures - there are several here. I've taken to clamping the TB to those cam sprockets and the crank, and installing that lower tensioner last. That's what works for me. The plastic plier kind of clamps. Because keepint that drivers side cam still and ligned up and getting the rest of the belt on never seems to work for me without this trick. What brand of belt? Reason I ask is a Dayco never quite ligns up on the drivers side for some reason. I hear the OEM one does.

Seems like between 120k and 180k they let go. Best thing it to do the HG's timing belt, reseal, etc and be done with it all. Search around here. Lots and lots of discussion. You could try and look at the gaskets and try and tell if they have been replaced. If you didn't already know (something else that'll be turned up by search) these HG's fail in a unique way. After a drive (I use 45 minutes) if they leak suddenly the temp will spike and it'll blow the coolant out of the overflow bottle. If you jsut made 5 mile trips you could run a car for years and be clueless. No white smoke and will pass a compression test (since they are done cold) but can still have bad HG's.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009H0016000B?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3 WIll be 1k starting sun for Craftsman Club members, I believe usually a week after that they are in the normal add. Other boxes on sale also (It's cmas!). Anyone have this large griplatch box that was a new product a few years ago? It goes on sale about one time per year for half price. Although I have't been in the garage in a year I'd like to get all my crap into one pile! My cmas choices to myself are this box, or the Best Buy Sony 46" LED TV and PS3 combe for 1,300. I'm an old computer guy, but have never played a computer game. I suppose I could sale the PS3. Thoughts on Sears boxes? I have a few mid sized better quality ones and a few of those cheap 2 piece 100.00 ones that I use as cart usually. The better quality one is 20 years old and seems to be doing fine with slide drawers. I've been checking CL for Snap-on, Matco, Cornwell. I do have carts from those guys and like them.

I deleted my original response. Because this is largely about politics pandering to corn farmers (Obama always says "corn based Ethanol" rather than just Ethanol). And don't forget the other do-gooders who don't realize we loose energy and make more pollution producing and transporting Ethanol related materials than the benefits. And I invest heavily in alternative energies and products so I have a decent idea of what I'm talking about. I'm not just making offhand comments. Anyone who would like to discuss can PM me. I'm always willing to learn or find out places where I need to do more Due Diligence. This thread isn't the place. But basically bend over like the lady in your icon. I head the Marine Stra-Bil is better than the old red stuff. I also hear Seafoam is a great fuel stabilizer and works well in Ethanol. This comment from my local small engine shop. And small engines were where some of the original Ethanol problems surfaced. Remamber this crap we gotta buy draws moisture big time.

That was already mentioned in this thread. Won't help if they are already leaking. But Subaru uses it like a "miracle cure". They put it in all years after doing a HG job I was told just last week.