davebugs

If you had your location (a real location - not something cute like "up the creek") a member may have had an extra bracket that you could have picked up. Could have been simpler and cheaper. Personally I often don't respond to folks that don't have a location. As long as you ignore arrows and look for dots and dashes you'll be fine. Don't forget to torque the crank bolt down real well!! I hope you're doing it all. Crank and cam seals, idlers, WP, etc while you're in there.

There will be a hash mark on the block. There will also be a hash mark on a little flange on the back of that cogged pulley(and that hash mark will align with the dot on the front of that cogged pulley). Match up the hash mark on the flange of the pulley with the hash mark on the block. Then the crank is done. Then you gotta do the cam sprockets and IGNORE THE ARROWS!! Just look for hash marks again on the sprockets and the timing cover.

Just looked at your pic. Your engine won't have that little metal cover just above the crank. You'll be able to see the hash mark back by the crank sensor as I mentioned. The mark on the front of the splined piece will likely be just a dot on yours. The cam sprockets often have arrows - IGNORE THEM if they are there.

NO ARROWS!!! Dots and dashes only. If you search around here there are some good writeups. Don't know if they salvaged any from endwrench for this procedure. A favorite of mine is for the 2.5 HG job search for "skipnospam" and it should have a link to a comcast link. It's for a DOHC but atleast you'll know to IGNORE THE ARROWS!!! Look fo rthe hask mark at the back of the splined piece on the end of the crank and match it up to the block back by the crank sensor. I psint them with white mail polish. There is also a small dot on the outside of that splined piece that is later covered by the harmonic balancer. NO ARROWS!!! IGNORE THEM!!! Don't concern yourself so much with the belt as much as making sure the crank marks and cam sprocket marks are dead on. Manuals and auto's timing belt procedure is the same.

Thats a thought. But the dealer's folks are gonna be a little miffed that they didn't get the job to do in the first place. Will have to remove the fans and tighten bolt. Probably won't want to by sighting liability issues. If nothing else I'd bet you're gonna have lots of wait time and enough $ tied up that it'd be worth buying the tool. Seriousely - they aren't gonna want to clean up someone else's work. Especially when they lost out on the $ of doing the job. Can't hurt to ask. Just don't see it as a real possibility.

There is a shifter release you can push with a screwdriver or pen on the console. I had trouble with linkage on one and NSS on another. I forget which was on which side of the transmission. IIR you gotta really get underneath the car (unless you have a lift).

A good tire shop will wire wheel the rim then put bead sealer on it when dealing with an alloy wheel that old. Also new valve stems are like a buck. I beleive you may be shooting yourself in the foot.

The headlight bulb holders used to melt with some regularity. Otherwise Cougar may chime in. He seems to have the knowledge/patience for this wireing stuff (just my observation).

The tool will be hard to make until you get the old one off - too hard to get the pins aligned to the holes. Yea I believe he did make it for 1/2" breaker bar. But you see the general idea. Those pins on this were actually machined on these at the end. Folks here didn't wanna spend 40 bucks plus shipping so I didn't have more than a few made. If you can get by with 2 or 3 pins they'll be easier to line up.

Here is a link to the tool. If this doesn't work try and figure out how to get to my photo album here. These pics are for a 2.2 tool. The only 2.5 tool I had made has a long handle welded to it. I had a few of these 2.2 one made figuring they were easier to mail. You can try a screwdriver or similar stuck into the litlte window (where you installed the Torque Converter bolts into. ANy way you look at it the fans are probably gonna have to come back out. Sme folks clain to use allen wrenches and cobble something together. That approach just wasn't for me. Not even with the engine out, and nu way with the engine in there. I probably do 150-200 lbs on mine. Subaru has a tool with a handle - I wanna say 200 bucks. I sold a few of these for 40. I don't know if I still have the original prototype made with an old jack handle, a large washer, then pins welded. The pins needed "customized" after each use. If you don't come up with a good solution let me know. I'll look again. I think this is my last tool so I don't wanna sell it, but we may be able to work something out for you to use it. I knew were this was then I started to clean up. It never made it to the upper garage and hung back up. That was 6 months ago. Now I'm buried in tax stuff - meet with the accountant wed. An attempt at the photo album section with the tool. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=169

Not tight enough for me. I use an impact while the engine is out and/or a breaker bar and a tool to hold the harmonic balancer that I had made (I used to have a few to sell but think I've misplaced them all - both sizes). No way I'd run that much with the final tightening being a rubber mallet. After that harmonic balances comes loose, wobbles, keyway chews up the crank and harmonic balancer it's not fun to fix.

Great to be done with something. And do it properly. What brand of belt in the kit? Did you get and use the Lisle seal puller? Make sure you got the crank bolt good and tight. Congratulations on doing it yourself.

Well, you'll certainly have receipts now! Use a paint stick and put the time and mileage somewhere. I usually put it on the intake since covers are plastic. Dealers almost never recommend or do the idlers. Because of the cost I believe - customers woul dhave sticker shock. They expect those parts to go 200k. Most of us use a good quality aftermarket kit and replace the idlers every TB change along with other stuff. I believe last quote we had here was like 500-600 bucks for the idlers and tensioner from the dealer. Hopefully someone local sees this and can loan you a used one so you can determine your status. I can send you one for shipping costs on monday but that hardly makes sense. Worst case just order a whole kit because you'll be needing it.

That's the main thing. Coolant bottle yuk. New WP/Thermostat and rad cap - like they are starting to chase the problem.

And we have been having database issuse for a week so be patient with the site.

Sucks. Out of curiosity who did the timing belt at 100k? That's probably the most common failure. Perhaps some one is local and can loan for a used cogged idler to try and simply reinstall that belt so that you can check compression. A lot of us get our idler kits from theimportexperts or mizumuto auto (or something like that). And replace them every timing belt change. So you should probably consider that. And we install OEM seals(crank, cam, WP). Perhaps you were very lucky.

GG if we do something on the timing belt and you're still looking for idlers let me know. I can dig through my pile and find some of the better ones. I don't believe i have an extra cogged one right now. Let me know ASAP if you'd like a new one and I'll order a "custom" kit on monday and add it.

GG - I gave the dealer the vin. This is the second 02 GT that this has happened to a friend. They just now stopped to pick up the 2 bottles of conditioner I had left on the porch for them. Looking on Ebay importexperts vs misumuto?. The green bearing seals on the idlers I know are GMB which I've been happy with. Don't know what those red bearing seals are and manufacturer isn't mentioned on the Ebay page for muzimoto. EIther way I won't use the timing belt that comes. Or the seals. So I'm likely to continue with theimportexperts since I have used lots of their kits without issue. Then dealer for HG's seals, WP gasket as usual. Gonna have to have someone else do this for them but I'll round up the parts. So I may have a new timing belt available for cheap. Probably MitsubOshi IIR - they claim they are the OEM supplier.

02's were NOT covered by the extended HG warranty like the 00 and 01's appear to have been. Just had a friend with an 02 GT and 78k that the HG's are starting to leak. Called the dealer I deal with - not covered.

Gasket, spring bolts, often the "flange fix" kits. It all adds up. And you're missing my point that you'll probably never be satisfied with that joint. And it'll likely always be wimpy. Do whatever you want. Try a different place. I don't know. Notice I said INDEPENDENT shop? Because I'm telling you it just ain't worth it. I even have the cars up on a lift and everything but the pipe bender, and ain't afraid to tackle much. In my opinion is simply isn't worth it.

Look. Just take it to an independent shop that can bend pipe. You're pissing away more time, effort, and money than they are gonna charge you. No matter how cheap you may be (I don't know how cheap you are). This is one of those cases even for DIY'ers that it just makes sense to have someone else with the proper tools do it. My guy charges me 40 bucks - but he's done a lot of them for me. So it costs you 50-60? By the time you buy the correct hardware, or aftermarket hardware for the "spring/flex joint" it's never gonna be really good anyways. He cuts both pipes, creates a sleeve, welds it up! Just make some calls and have someone else do it. Seriousely. You're gonna have about as much in parts and not do it as well. Then there is the time and frustration factor. When I do motor swaps and HG jobs often this joint fails. I don't mess with it anymore.

Actually I go more the other way. Anti-seize on most bolts going into the aluminum block. Including AC compressor, PS pump, tensioners. About the only loctite I use is on crank bolt - really behind the harmonic balancer more and not the threads of the bolt sometimes get red. And sometimes the flywheel bolts get blue. I never put anything on flex plate bolts. They didn't get any from the factory and "suddenly get tight" when tightening them due to head design, etc. And I'd be afraid the loctite might dry by the time I get all 4 started then come back and snug them up. I lost this post earlier due to the Db errors. Glad I copied it. I seem to really loose the long ones!

Sometimes a little flat file work and anti-seize will be all it takes. Other times you actually gotta move the bushing like you're planning.

That's what i was thinking. I've got many.

I ALWAYS anti-seize those on reassembly. But I do that with a lot. Like eng to trans bolts, engine mount bolts, heck even the radiator bolts. Just about everywhere. Yea it gets everywhere but should you ever need to take anything apart - especially in the rust belt - you'll be glad you did. I just never do TC or Pressure Plate bolts. Other than that most bolts get it. Like AC bracket bolts, PB bolts, certainly the tensioners, etc.