davebugs

My advance has a store brand belt - they are crap. Drive rite? Crap! I've always been afraid to install them even as accessory belts. They also handle Dayco - I think a good belt. If you get theimportexperts kit it'll come with a MitsubOshi belt. I've used them on several non-interference Subaru's with no issues that I know of. They swear they are the OEM manufacturer. But for interference engines I still buy a Dayco. They also have a kit with cam seals they swear are the brown ones form the OEM manufacturer but I go to the dealer for the seals, HG's and WP gasket. Although I just did get a kit for a friends 02 and got the WP from them and the gasket looked to be the same style as the dealer (rubber coated metal)

What I did with the old GF's 06 Impreza. I did the "redneck flush" drain and fill 3 times at around 50k when I did the first set of plugs IIR. Then every second or third oil change I'd do one drain and fill. Partly because I didn't know how long I'd be taking care of the car and I though this would have the best results before the tranny service ended up being ignored or being done by a quick lube place.

Do the cam sprockets spin? Water pump? What's the status of the tensioner? How did you compress it? Is it wet at all?

I HEAR you can do them in the car after removing the pitch stopper. And I've sold s few pitch stopper/dog bones to folks who have broke them doing them this way. I'd simply yank the engine. Did you do anything to the engine before dropping it in? That'll help figure out what may have gone wrong. Including too much sealer somewhere and a cam seizing. More common than you'd think. As pointed out the drivers side has compression at TDC and the pass doesn't no matter a 2.2 or 25. Tell us brands of stuff as well. I use Dayco belts for instance. Over in the VW world there is a fella with a bunch of websites selling CRAP as good parts. Cheap folks are getting burned. And a VW TDI headjob makes a Subaru look awful cheap.

Welcome to USMB. Lots of excellent info here. Either search or look at "similar threads" at lower left of the screen now. There are some excellent pics here somewhere. From time to time they are just a pain. I had one that I spent a few hours on, left it over night, and took a few hours of messing with it the next day. I even took the time to get some long bolts and cover them with 1/2 PVC pipe to make turning the TC easier trying to get it to seat. But I know there is talk of some methods and Orings here if you look. Some pics as well.

As pointed out there is a kit fo rthis joint And "flange fix kits" to simulate the flanges that get installed individually then bolted together basically to create the connection along with the donut. This is what I take to my local independent exhaust shop. They cut it out, make a sleeve, and weld it in for 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks I spend. Also FYI occasionally the pipes are good and I do leave this joint in place. The LISTED donut gasket is often too small. It is meant for a spiffy new pipe. And it would take too much sanding to get it on. So I look for one of a slightly larger diameter than is listed. Luckily at my local independent place they let me play behind the counter on the wall that has these gaskets - Walker I believe. The slightly larger one install more easily over the pipe (I still sand it and stuff) and still crushes just fine when the bolts are tightened.

Again the experts will know for sure. But I believe on most AC systems if the charge is low the compressor knows not to come on. My guy pulls a vacuum to make sure the system is "closed" before recharging. If it's charged and compressor gets signal and still doesn't run it's the compressor. They can also pur a dye in if it's a stubborn leak. Jsut like the dye for oil or coolant. I've got a selection of used AC compressors here. They all bolt up the same but often the hoses are different. Luckily I have a selection of those as well. On the rare occasions I've had AC compressor issues having the combination of an AC compressor and it's matching hoses has given me more flexibility than buying a reman AC compressor. But I realize a lot of folks don't have the luxury of the parts stash that I have.

O rings at the hoses are common. But I believe their are some AC experts here that'll know a lot more than me. I take my AC issues to a real AC guy. I learned long ago - just like exhaust pipe repair that it just wasn't worth the correct tools and developing the knowledge for me to fix AC. Is your condensor o.k.? Any front end damage? SImply follow the trail of the gas.

FYI a friend recently bought a 01 Legacy GT limited that had HG's done under warranty. I've called me dealer about 3 2002's over the past several months - one a friend owns, y I was looking at for the fella that just got the GT. NONE of the 2002's were covered. One that a friend owns has 78 or 87k. Unfortunatley back in the day they were one of the first to need a sort block due to HG/rod bearing issues and I think they had to pay that out of pocket. So their experience with Subaru's hasn't been the best but they still like them. This 02 they just bought a few months ago. So it'll be getting HG's tiing belt, idlers, WP, you know the whole deal soon. They were kind of amazed that Subaru still had HG issues. Different but still issues. A couple bottles of conditioner hasn't helped but they are trying to limp along for another week or so. So these friends will end up with both engine styles having HG's done!

Excellent idea with the roll of solder. I've done several of these and never bothered with string, wire or anything. Not to hard to fish that cable back down there. Excellent job with the pics for the next person.

rare. I hear you can do the 2.2's in the car but I always pull them. I've probably done I don't know - less than 50 but probably close to it 2.2 swaps and never did the HG's. Everything else like I said but no HG's. I have purchased a few 2.2's with traditional(non Subaru style) HG issues (blow white smoke) I'd say you were just lucky...

Do some searching. Different HG problem that you can usually nurse along for a while and rarely overheat enough to damage rod bearings. Just keep it topped up, add conditioner, etc. SOHC's are "better but different" when it comes to HG's

I never do the 2.2 HG's and ALWAYS do the 2. 5 HG's personally. The odds of a 2.2 having HG issues is very low. I certainly "seal" the 2.2 - baffle plate, cam crank, Orings (those 2 skinny ones). Timing belt, idlers, WP are all up to you - I do it all.

I forget as well, but I too recommend disconnecting at the pass floor. I'd get the car up to where you can see what you're doing (like ramps on pass side). I believe there is simply a clip to release the cable. If you search enough there may be a pic here. But you definately wanna take that route rather than disconnecting at the controls. If you break your controls drop me a PM I should have a few. I'm starting to put more stuff on Ebay to get rid of it.

Which Greensburg? Please update your ID info. If it's Greensburg PA you're close to me. I'm currently pretty wimpy (car accident on rt66 a couple weeks ago) but I'll have the parts you might need. Or may buy whatever mess you have off of you for when I'm able to play with cars again. I have 2.5 heads (actually whole engines) and I have the most 97 stuff. Lots of good folks and knowledge here.

Actually you and I look at it differently. I'm happy folks USE the search function. Especially newbies. Resurrecting an old thread means that someone actually tried to help themselves before creating yet another thread. You know - my car is overheating. I did a HG job and now my auto tranny won't move. Can I swap a 2.2 for a 2.5. I actually see it as progress when old threads are searched for and found. Doesn't bother me at all. There is a lot of old and excellent info here. I'm often amazed because I've only been here I'm guessing 3 or 4 years. The knowledge that's already documented here.

I have some "pickle forks". But usually I just go to Advance auto and "rent" the front end service set. pickle forks I have a tendency to rip the BJ boot with. Not a factor if it's being replaced but sometimes I wanna try and save the BJ. The "rent" deal is you pay for it (used set usually), take it back in what a week or 30 days and get your money back.

My local independent chain (of like 5 stores) handles the Cardone stuff. Infact I usually use their WP when I do timing belt jobs. FYI I run a lot of EMPI new axles on my vintage VW's. They don't get many miles but have been fine. At the time they were new and the same price as reman's really. Congratulations on using the search function as a newbie. Welcome to USMB.

Do the "newer 2.2 w/EGR" swap that the fella that started this thread was talking about. 95-99 WITH EGR. 95 2.2 auto (with EGR) is the first choice mostly due to the Y-pipe. Do some research here. Lots of info.

REMEMEBR the "front" cam caps bolts have a lesser torque! First time I didn't realize this and broke a few then had to remove them. Also don't get crazy with the ultra grey because along with using oil instead of assembly lube like Shawn says can cause the cams to not be lubricated properly and then something fails. Another heads up. At my local dealer the parts guys look at you like you're speaking a foreign language if you ask for those valve shims, but the mechanics have them if you ask nicely.

That 2.2 won't have EGR. Some here have done that conversion because they have no inspection where they care about the CEL. I coildn't do it here where I live in PA. Your preferred engine is a 95 2.2 automatic (has EGR) or any 2.2 96-99 but yoi'l need it's Y-pipe. Do some reading here.

I'm curious how well they cleaned up. AFTER pics please. Cooling system is always the most neglected, followed by auto trans. The difference is you can service coolant without causing "new" issues. If you service a long neglected tranny it's a crap shoot.

Funny no one had mentioned them. I have a set of the original "Xtractors", Irwin makes them, Sears, Snap-on, Matco, etc.

I have someone local that does my "overflow work" I only work on my own cars that I buy, fix, sell. He's pretty good and fairly priced. I also have him do friends Subaru's. PM me if you'd like more info. But you should be able to find someone closer I'd think.

I've never been able to find replacement panels for Subaru. Or I'd get the cars I redo done where the rear fender wells meet the rear bumper cover. If they are rusted into the door openings I just pass on the car. If you find a good source for patch panels please post here.