davebugs

Interference. Welcome to the USMB. Please update your profile with a meaningful location. Often members here assist each other. We also have a handy search function.

From another board I understand you can "gift" through Paypal and apparently no (or less) commissions are taken out. On this particular forum the kid talks folks into "gifting him the money" for parts, never ships the parts, and the folks are screwed because it was a gift! The sender can't ask Paypal to refund money for items not sent. Or I guess you can ask but they are pissed because they didn't get their cut and how can you want money back on a gift? Of course a gift to USMB would be in excellent hands. I'll have to reread this thread. I'm thinking it wouldn't be hard to sponsor one month (atleast at the old rates) in addition to my yearly donation after I receive payment from a few members that I expect shortly. Perhaps some members can step up and sponser a month occasionally?

I am amazed that there are only that many donors, and donors of significance. I'm on 2 forums regularly and donate to both (this being one of them). They have both helped me significantly. I figure its worth it to me, and others.

The last 2 posts have some good points. Personally I don't twitter, facebook, or what was the last one like that the kids have already dropped? I don't know that active linking to them would really add any value. Perhaps traffic if that's what you're after. Getting higher in searches is a possibility. But heck, I come here and usually don't search Yahoo or Google. What kinda numbers are we talking about - if you'd share. I can't believe anyone would expect you folks to moderate, babysit, and pay out of pocket. But it would help if we knew the magnatude.

Shawn, I'll list more parts and give USMB a portion of the proceeds. Basically I do that already but haven't been selling much over the last year. What would it take for someone else (perhaps me) to handle the t-shirt stuff the next cycle? That could atleast free you up from that. Just thinking out loud. I'd like to see this site remain add free as well.

I'm unaware of a plug. I use an air drill and drill a hole, catch with funnel with paint filter in it and a hose that I put in a container. After all the tanks I've drilled I'll be a bit bummed if I missed a plug!

Just reread my post. What I'm saying is that there will in essence be a hole on the block on the drivers backside near the bellhousing where this metal tube comes out of that will need plugged. I believe every EGR engine has this and thus the 96 should. But I'll step aside and hope that someone who has actually done this will respond given a little time.

Never done this (so perhaps I shouldn't respond) but the 96 block will hava a place for that big EGR(I believe) metal tube that goes to the back of the drivers side head. Whether you can just plug that or not I don't know. You'll also have other "plumbing" to undo I believe for the EVAP and EGR systems that will be on the 96 intake. You may be able to swap the intake though but this foot long metal tube I'm talking about you'll have to figure out how to get around. IIR those injectors on those 90 & 91's weren't all that great(reliable) though if you swap intakes. But I'v eonly worked on a dozen of those early 90's cars.

If they were black they were generic.

FYI I've had 97 Outbacks that have a different radiator. The alignment pegs on the bottom are a different palce. IIR usually the pegs are lets say in the middle (on the bottom of course) of the bottom or each side tank. Some 97 Outbacks those pegs are either on those tanks way over by the radiator or are part of the radiator - but anyways very clos to where the tanks and radiator meet. This rad is also more expensive - like almost double IIR. I was shocked as well. The 97 if you think about it does have some weirdnesses. The longer starter, the shims for valve adjustment, and sometimes a different rad.

Simple after you know EXACTLY where to look. It's a crafty little bugger. Usually runnning warm isn't an issue so I'm a bit perplexed. Is it the original rad? Becaause repeated high temps cold have caused the HG's. I didn't see if you did the WP or not, I think you said idler kit. Is the thermostat OEM? That kinda stuff. Perhaps start another thread. Your original problem with the car immediately stopping running is solved.

Also on the 95 there is the airbox blocking the view. A quick look and it looks like it's in its proper place and you think nothing more of it. That's why you gotta actually check the ends. And it is stiff to reconnect.

About a foot long and hidden - you've really gotta look for it and follow it to both ends. It's not "on top" but a bit hidden. Stand on the pass side and look at the airbox on the throttle body and look down. Like 1" diameter and about a foot long. First time it takes a long time to hunt down, second time it's the first place you look. It's also a pretty stiff (probably from heat) tube more than a rubber line I'd say but they may be soft when new. Odds are real, real good this is your problem.

Gary, I still prefer to have the heads done. But my local dealer doesn't. I check warpage. Occasionally I would have someone who wanted to save an extra hundred so I'd clean them myself. I special ordered a white (the name escapes me - with all the little titties - kinda rubber like) that is the least abrasive. I've seem the dealer use a scotch brite pad on an air drill, die grinder, etc in the parts washer(for lube) and just not get the RPM's up much.

Hopefully someone here can point you to a good independent shop.

Crap. I've probably got 8 sets, with less miles. Perhaps I should send them to Maine.

The "snap" of an impact is your friend here. I even have a 1/2" electric impact for when air isn't convenient that does a decent job. Atleast it's not the heads that are your priority. How big of a deal to hand a belt on this engine? Just a thought.

I'm sorry. I'm not up to speed on what an EJ25D is, heck I get confused by all the talk around here of Phase 1 and Phase 2's. You know this by now but the best way to do the cam sprocket bolt is with an impact while the timing belt is still on. IIR on the DOHC there are 2 flat spots meant for a skinny wrench up somewhere pretty close to the cam sprocket. At this point you may need to grind an open end wrench to get in there - but look for those flat spots you may need to spin the cam to see them. Edit: perhaps the 1" wrench is where I'm talking about.

I believe so as well. I've got a drawer full of them and they all didn't come from VW's. Bosch seems to make a lot of the O2 sensors used by everyone. Do some reading here. I believe OEM is recommended for the front but generic is o.k. for the rear. If I don't have one I always buy mine at the dealer anyways. Too expensive for me to try something that may not work and I may have to turn around and buy the same(OEM) part again. Too bad there isn't a way to fix the "preheat" or the wire that cuases that code on these - that usually is why I have to replace them.

Can you switch the whole fan assy's? From the old rad? Just a thought. Because Id just get the correct rad myself. Does the Legacy rad fill on the same side as the Forester rad?

Gary, I usually pay around 120 for resurface, check for cracks, steam bath. To get valve seals and such done not much more (for labor) but my guys tell me Subaru's very rarely need them.

Forester is really an Impreza - atleast radiator wise. Filler will be on the opposite side. I've never tried using a Legacy rad. I always seem to have enough around of whatever I need.

Gary, How do they look now? Regardless I probably wouldn't use them. You're doing something "non-standard" here anyways. If anything fails you'll always be haunted by this. Any reason you just don't use DHOC heads and be done with it? And I'd definatley find another shop.

I seem to do a lot of 97's and this is the method I'd use. First couple sets of heads I checked again for kicks when they were in the car (just threw the valve covers on without gaskets or old gaskets to make sure no damage or dirt on engine install). They were always o.k. On this year with the shims without whatever the dealer tool is was the only way that made sense to me. Also doing it this way there is no compression so it's very easy to hold the cam sprocket and move it back and forth. Often I'd give it a few revolutions to displace the assembly lube first, I'm kinda generous with the stuff.

There is probably a how-to on shanging plugs somewhere here. You gotta be patient. Perhaps remove windshield washer reservoir and battery. I find a rediculosely(sp?) long extension or series of extensions helps. On the drivers side often it's easier to extend out to above the fender and use your ratchet literally outside of the engine bay. I use a swivel spark plug socket. For some reason I recall on one type of Subaru engine that my 1"(that short) snap-on extension is needed. Hose clamp pliers (if you have them - handy tool) are often best way to remove wires from plugs in manual method doesn't work. Dont' forget anti-seiza and dielectric grease for new plugs. Those NGK's are usually gapped already - I believe tha gap is the "-11" part of the plug #.