davebugs

I do swap those AC compressors without touching the alternator. No idea what else was involved - or could be. Thanks for all the info. I'm AC ignorant. But I can swap an AC compressor quickly and take it back to my AC guy for evacuation, vacuum test, and charge.

Why did you remove all that crap if the compressor was the issue? Or was there other diagnosis that went on that you didn't mention? Pics should be helpful to others - thanks. Did you install new Orings everywhere?

I can think of 4 different seat patterns - more than colors. GT, Outback, L and leather. You mean you should have grabbed one when you were here? I believe they are all dark grey, but don't know for sure.

I also believe a 98 should have new style tensioner. Purt simply the single/dual port think is easily overcome with a different Ypipe. Overcoming no EGR - there is no good way that I'm aware of or have seen here. Lots of folks get screwed by yards/mechanics if they don't realize this should be a show stopper.

Oops - yea. But I believe it's the only year of a dual port 2.2 isnt' it? That's what makes it the magical year. Along with still being non-interference. Can't believe I forgot that! Yea - I've probably installed close to 50 2.2 swaps now. Just none in the last year and a half. It's amazing how poor my memory is sometimes!

Was a dualport 2.2 ever made? I don't recall seeing one, that's why I ask. Would be another intersting tidbit to know.

Fancy plugs aren't always the answer especially in a Subaru. No matter how well intentioned. Don't know why. Often I think it's better to stick with "the technology at the time" rather than trying to improve things. I basically do the same on my old air cooled VW's for the same reason. Glad it worked.

I LOVE my local guy. Apparently likes beer more than teeth! But he's retireing also. I took him astarter from a 73 VW Beetle last week. Heck - I don't even need it, it'll end up on the shelf. But I'd prefer to have anything he's redone over a questionable rebuild or some generic brand new. I've had him redo almost all the generators and starters on my antique cars. In the case of the antiques always pro-actively. That reminds me, it's done and needs picked up. But another person/service I'll miss greatly.

Wow. Never realized how many crappy machine shops are apparently out there. The head GG has done was outright embarrassing. I have 2 machine shops I use for heads - never a problem. My local auto parts cuts my flywheel's and back when it made sense rotors never with an issue. Including many Subaru flywheels. I often say I go out of my way to support tradesmen like my local radiator shop. A lot of tradesmen places have already fallen by the wayside like shoe repairmen, TV repairmen, decent bakeries are dropping like flies with the mega marts, decent old time hardware stores are having difficulties competing with the big box guys on commodity items. All these small businesses have a level of customer service a chain will never have. And a level of investment an employee will never have. I don't believe we're better off without them no matter how much cheap Chinese stuff Walmart inports while advertising "customer service". How many times have you thought about a positive customer service while waiting to check out at Walmart or finding someone who actually knows about an item they carry? If you're literally afraid to have it resurfaced just buff it up with a scotch brite wheel this is what most folks seem to do including the dealer. Sure wish more folks had decent local macine shops.

My first reply was lost. I just usually use Felpro for VC gaskets.

Actually oil pump Oring , no gasket - ultra grey is how it comes from factory and how I "redo" them. Don't forget to check the phillips screws on the oil pump and tighten them. As far as flywheel a lot of folks use a scotch brite pad on the device of your choice like an air drill. I wouldn't think sandpaper was a good idea. I get mine resurfaced myself.

I don't see a conclusion yet. Did I miss something?

Get whatever makes you feel comfortable. But FYI the Ebay kits were the first to come with the 2 row bearings I believe. I suspect because folks were intalling them in the wrong place. Also 2 cars I purchased not long after an idler failed after a dealer did a timing belt job had that lower, single bearing idler have a melt down. And all internet or Ebay places aren't the same. Most of us have said we've had good experience with a particular vendor. If you have most of the OEM parts already then getting the rest OEM probably makes the most sense since you already have a significant investment in parts that are part of the kit.

They make tip cleaners. ANy welding supply or my local auto parts place has them. Also I have a document or link here Skip gave me years ago I'll look for. I hadn't run torches since the late 70's and needed a "refresher".

I always get them resurfaced.

You never install a new stype on purpose. I mean switch TO a new style If you have old style, consider yourself lucky as far as durability and cost to replace, and ability to replace only the idler.

And the new tensioner assy is much more money than jsu thte idler for the old style. No matter which if you're re-usig the tensioner read here how to compress it.

GG, He said the Lego already had a 2.2 that's why I didn't mention the Y-pipe. I have one single port Ypipe left. If you wanna buy it PM me.

Aftermarket but decent. Usually GMB bearings. Best value. I've installed many, many sets and don't know of a failure yet and several have gone another 100k I know.

I've done several of these. Don't recall anything spectacular about it. All 3 plugs of the harness are the same for sure.

I believe most of us here use "theimportexperts.com" kits. Look for them on Ebay first - from this specific place. A lot of us replace this stuff every 100k. These have held up well for myself and others. No need for a harmonic balancer unless inspection of it shows an issue. Which brings up another point to make sure you get the crank bolt tight.

Looks like what collects after repeated overheating. You gotta tell up the symptoms.

Walker makes the donut I know. But seriousely I'd get it welded. By the time you buy 2 flange kits, some extra bolts (to pull the flange kits together), the donut and some rather unpleasant work for only a "passable" repair just having it welded is good money spent. You should be able to search for my user name and "independent" to see some other recent folks experiences. Yes everyones repair need is different, they value their time differently, etc. So there is no clear cut choice, but I heavily favor having a shop with the correct tools do it in about 15 minutes for 40 bucks.

Stupid as that sounds part of it is classic alternator failure on a Suby. Other than the missfire codes. Which sound like a different problem. But a bad alternator seems like a plugged cat or fuel filter. WHen you let the car set the battery rejuvinates a bit and you can drive again. Repeat until you're dead in the water. Usually the ABS light blinks also. And the high RPM's are lost first so it seems like cat or fuel filter. You could be having 2 problems. The alt and plugs/wires (something electricval) on 3 or 4. Not mechanical or fuel delivery (only one cylinder would missfire).

Thanks for the additional info. I'm an old VW guy. That said I've seen Bosch Platinums cause major problems in Subaru's and Volvo's. If no one else comes up with any great idea's I'd consider swapping out the plugs. On the 2.5's I ALWYAS use OEM plug wires. But some here have reported success with NGK wires. Personally I'd swap plugs with the NGK BKR5E-11's or similar(I forget actual item #) that are the cheap plugs with the green writing on them. In the US they are 2.00 each. So for less than 10 bucks (and the fun of changing plugs on a DOHC) you're on your way to trouble shoot. By comparison OEM plug witer are more like 100.00 down here. Wait a bit and see if anyone else has any suggestions though.