davebugs

16449 P0065 Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance Generic description I found. Don't have a clue what this means.

I have some (like 5) brand new, freshly rebuild "Worldwide" reman alt's that came from parts stores. Short version is I bough thte cars aftr the "new" alt didn't fix the problem. Alt's were probably bad out of the box. They usually paint hte metal stripe Green (or atleast they used to).

I've got only one alt left and it's a Subaru reman and I'm ENE of Pittsburgh about 35 miles. I'll be out all day today though. PM me if interested.

AFter this was asked yet agian I looked for a link. I believe we all think ALL DOHC's are interference and about 96 was the cutoff year for 2.2's. BTW most other brands of cars start interference around '96. But I had a link I've never used to I believe Gates belts that is supposed to be a listing of whether engines are interference or not. I couldn't find the link.

Interference.

They 2.2 usually isn't overly sensative to plug wires. NGK plugs. I believe like BKR6E-11's or something. I get the ones withhte green writing on them for 2 bucks. WOrk best for me it seems. Often exotic plugs will get you into trouble - top of mind in this category Bosch Platinums.

Check at vwvortex. I've never been able to afford an Audi so I run VW's. On some VW's 99.5-2005 (MKIV's) I've seen this from all kinds of stupid stuff. From the snow screen in the plumbing behind the headlight before the air filter being full of crap to starting HG issues. Have you installed the proper spark plugs? For VW I use Bosch or NGK and going more and more NGK for the newer stuff.

I vote probaby rad side thank or another plase where the rad is crimped. A lot of times the dye kit at the auto parts is money well spent rather than just throwing parts at things like this.

If the Brighton has EGR simply swap the whole 2.2 in. Why tear down 2 engines? And use the 2.2 Y pipe too.

Thanks. Grabbed "just incase"

I've got an old VW mechaninc (84 years old now) who has the old fashioned kind hydraulic out of the floor. He's always setting on his heels doing brake jobs. Makes my legs hurt just watching him. And it covers most of what you want a car in the air for. Engine/trans and exhaust - it's in the way for all of them really. And you've still gotta set all 4 pods - it's just that they come from underneath on that old style. A VW mechanic I know got one of those low styles for her house. It certainly is better than nothing. Around here a lot of tire shops seem to use them. Again with the 4 post lift (and a 10' ceiling) you're constantly bending you head to not hit it when getting under and out from under. A tool cart really comes in handy for most of the tools to cut down on trips out from under the lift. But also you can lay tools and parts all over the lift which does come in handy. So there are tradeoff's. For me the portability is nice. Stupid stuff like if you cement the bolts into the floor for a 2 post then it's too close to the wall no room for a toolbox or compressor and room to walk between them. Or if you put the lift too far away you've wasted space. It's like anything else. Sometimes I wish I had bought 2. One for simple stuff - maintenance, engine swaps, etc. Stuff that can be done in a day or less. And another one for my antique cars which often turn into projects because most parts (or atleast of the quality you want) need to be ordered. I did get what I call an axle jack and it came with a sliding tray. The axle jack basically has 2 pods and will let you lift the car off the lift to do brake work remove tires, etc. The sliding metal tray is meant to have a normal jack put in it to raise the vehicle. Another thing about a 4 post when doing engines is that I have the car on it's wheels and use the axle jack to put a jack onto to support the trans. So what happens is when you pull the engine it's like the car is on the ground. Which means the angle will be off when you reinstall the engine. So you just need to allow for that without the weight of the engine in the car and the suspension raises the car. In the air is great. I have a waste oil thing, a couple of support jacks to hold lets say exhaust stuff. I also have a nice trans jack but need another. It's a single stage. So if it has a trans on it I can't lower it enough to get it out from under the lift. SO my current workaround usually is to chain the trans to the crossbeam that is holding up the engine on a FWD car, remove trans jack, lower entore lift/car onto a furniture dolly. After the accident doing everything hurts. And I'd think getting up and down to the creeper would be worse. I do use the creeper when servicing my Astro van due to the ceiling issue. And it kills my neck and shoulders. ANother "simple" thing. As I stated in the winter when working for any length of time I have a propane heater. It'll ge tthe corner of the gargae up to 50 degrees or so. So being off the ground standing up it's nice. Being close to the floor not so much.

Rarely on a DOHC is there water in the oil. Simply not how they usually fail. Don't be alarmed. The parts store probably has a test kit you can buy to make sure if you'd like. It would be the first DOHC I knew off that got cooland into the oil.

I got a 4 post. Usually it's nice. Sometimes I wish I had gone 2 post. But I like the fact that I can move it around in the garage. In the winter I used to pull an Outback in. Remove engine, push car on lift to other side of garage. Then put engine on stand and tear down to do HG job. I only heat 1/4 of my garage. Tarps on the ceiling and tarps that roll down like walls. And a rope/board system that acts just like a garage door. Couldn't do that with a 2 poster. I have the lift/car in the heat when I pull the engine. Push the lift/car out into the cold and put the engine in the warm part. Also for simple things like oil changes getting down 4 times to align the pods is more trips to the floor than changing the oil would be. Heck the 4 post is even excellent for detailing. Exhaust work is easy. 4 post is difficult to repair car's rocker panels cause lift is in the way. Rotating tires requires an extra step. But the fact that I can put it's wheels on and move it empty or with a car on it anywhere in the garage is great. Also in a jamb I can lift it up and put another car under it for storage. Best 2k I ever spent. Anyone building a garage thinking about a lift you should go atleast 12' high. I only went 10' figuring if I ever got a lift having the joist's altered wouldn't be a big deal. I was wrong. Easy if you wanna add a post but I don't want no stinkin' post that's why I built a pole building. If I ever get over this auto accident and can work in the garage again I'm seriousely considering having a contractor have a crane come in and add 2 feet height to a section. Noone that knows what they are doing will alter 40' engineered joists made of 2x4's.

I have had this also be a problem at higher RPM's on a 97 Outback as well. With the shims to adjust the valves. And same thing I sold it that way. Happened after car was warm.

New thought! If you think it's the axle they make a needle for the end of a grease gun. Not every parts store has them. I got one several years ago to play with adding grease to idler pulleys then decided that wasn't the way to go. But it would pierce the boot and you could load the joint up with grease to get home or a better place to work on it. Certianly simpler that boot or axle removal along the road.

If this JUST happened you should be able to feel the rim for hot brakes if the caliper is hanging up.

Welcome to USMB. You might try the search function. All the 95-2000 Subaru engines I've seen (2.2 and 2.5) use a sealer for oil pan and tranny pan. Here I use Permatex Ultra Grey for EVERYTHING on a Subaru including the oil pump and corners of valve covers when doing HG's. I'd say yours was replaced by someone tha tdidn't know. The main problem I see with this is that often these same kind of folks tend to overtighten the bolts and warp then pan. But still sealer rather than a gasket I would think would be more forgiving. Perhaps someone else here has a different experience.

Look for a VERY similar thread here in the last day or so. Porcupine posted a drawing and engine pics that were form a newer 2.2 but yours is the same. Use the search function. Or ofter at the bottoom left there are some "similar threads" displayed. HASH marks IGNORE arrows!!!

Remove both timing belt covers at each and and see if they line up is a good start.

Thanks for sharing in a few threads but this isn't the common fix for this that I've seen. I've seen a lot of sloppy timing belt installs and not torqueing (or in my case I over torque) the crank bolt. And it'll cause keyway on the crankshaft, harmonic balancer, and even oil pump and TB cover issues. See my pics here for one we fixed. But none of the ones I've fixed the crank bolt on had this symptom. I'm glad it's worked for you.

Welcome to the USMB. I did one of those years ago. Other than the exhaust in the way I don't recall anything special. Infact it must be common sized seal because the local parts place had it in stock. Look for a reason this went bad though.

The drivers side is always under load at the mark and pass side isn't. The pins are the way to help you stay on the marks (they REALLY come in handy on DOHC's). Don't forget to slide the tensioner all the way to the left on the bolts before tightening those 2 bolts. Do this BEFORE messing with the belt much because often the belt is in the way of those 2 bolts. I install and slide it left before starting with the belt. Good luck. I'm off ot bed soon.

I'm assuing the play is when it's "freewheeling" with no resistance. And the drivers side has some resistance all of the time - which isn't normal. Both should have some "unloaded" rotation.

No. Pass side sounds much more normal than drivers. I'm thinking you have mechanical issue on drivers side. ANyone else's thoughts?

Couple of thoughts. Perhaps remove the belt, compress tensioner again (yea - I know you're probably tired of doing it) and while belt is off turn cam sprockets. Just to make sure they are free. You will feel resistance at some point in the revolution. But they should rotate the whole 360 degrees. And basically the same level of resistance on both sides. Just a thought. ALso I find it easiest to install the lower left idler last.