davebugs

Also that is a VERY RARE problem to have, with one injector, let alone 2 on the same head. I'm wondering if it was diagnosed accurately. Or if the last person in there caused the damage.

I wouldn't do that at all!! Folks here will have some for sale. And you can just replace the whole fuel rail easily.

I have never seen a knock sensor cause a misfire. The car to run like crap and often no CEL - yes. But they are often bad, so no harm in checking it. And when I've seen the belt off a tooth what caused the folks to contact me was often some kind of weird occasional cam and crank sensor type errors. Since the ECU can't tell which one is off. Occasionally it would get an error and the CEL would come on. I forget if it was advanced or retarded a tooth, that may have an impact on the code reported.

Exactly my thoughts.

Cougar is the man...on wireing. Much more patient than I am... On Subaru's I most often see wires broken at the top of the rear hatch. But in most other cars it's the drivers door jamb. Pop that panel off and see if the juice is making it to where it should be.

Mike, You're kidding right? A 95 2.2 AUTO!!! is preferred because your Ypipe will work. (MUST HAVE EGR). 96, 97, 98 will work but you'll need the single port Ypipe from that engine. As usual a littel rubber hose plumbing work for VC breathers and maybe EVAP.

I want to say at my local independent parts place I paid 40-50 for one of these years ago. So I started keeping a few when I parted cars. It isn't a common failure. But you may be surprised at the price of a new local replacement.

A 95 2.2 with EGR is a cleaner swap. If you go with 96,97,98 2.2 you'll need it's single port Y pipe. Other than that minor work for VC breather hoses and possibly some EVAP hose plumbing. Really an easy swap. Here is how clueless JY's are. When I used to do a lot of these I learned to ask for a 95 Impreza 2.2 auto(with EGR)engine first because they were 100.00 cheaper and the same engine! After this happened 20 or 30 times my favorite JY finally caught on. The single port Ypipe can be hard to locate because when catalytic converters were more valuable the JY folks often got torch happy and cut the end of the Ypipe off rather than the small gap between the flange and front cat.

A lot of dealers use BG fuel injector cleaner, and some use the MOA (Motor Oil Additive) which is good stuff. I'm not so sure about their fuel cleaner. I figure a bottle every 3k is fine, because after an injector starts to clog you can't get the fuel through it to help clean it. Another thought. An old mechanic I had told me not to use a fuel system cleaner in my old S-10's because they had metal tanks and it would likely loosen up all the crap in the fuel system and cause that crap to make it's way to the throttle body injection system(what that truck had on it). Truck had like 60k at that time. So I try and do this since the vehicle is new. There is more to the fuel system than those injectors you're trying to keep clean.

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer. Get SUBARU Head Gaskets. Not the place to try and save a few bucks. How many times you want to do this job?

I personally like Lucas Injector cleaner. I buy the gallon and have like 8-12 of the little bottles that I keep refilling for friends, family, and myself. Actually I have a Lucas quart bottle I fill from the gallon, then use the quart with the (can't think of the word - screw un nipple) to fill the small bottles that will fit into the filler neck. I roughly run one bottle every oil change for family, friends, and myself as maintenance. Often the only time I see a car is when it's due for maintenance. Seafoam is supposed to be good too and a fuel stabilizer. I have a tendency to use it for specific problems through a vacuum line.

I get OEM oil pump Oring, and ultra grey to seal it. You'll need the ultra grey anyways when you do the HG's. Exhaust OEM is about the same price as aftermarket - but are better. However as GG says often reusable. I also buy an importexperts kit with all the idlers. I also have to say I got a kit for a friend that came with the crank & cam seals and they looked good. You can get a water pump there or elsewhere but I think OEM is expensive. I use Dayco timing belts and accessory belts. If you get a new baffle plate make sure to get the matching new screws. Coolant - I use Advance auto parts universal. VC gaskets usually Felpro.

Replace. Remember that crazy torque procedure on install? Yours are already squished. I prefer OEM.

Rare to see any piston damage. Always valve damage in my experience.

Don't forget the O-ring for the filler tube/dip stick assuming others Oring may be a different one.

IIR that pan is stuck pretty good. Don't warp it upon removal. If you look I believe there is a place or two kinda cast into the alum of the trans to allow to get a screwdriver in there to aid in pan removal near a corner or two. I really only work with 95-99's. Gasket scraper and razor blades, gasket removal aerosol can if you like seems to work better than my usual brake cleaner.

Take you favorite penetrant. Those puppies get gaulded in there. Often ruined when removed. Depending on whar you run across grab the while oil pump piece that has this sensor in it. I have trouble getting these sensors out from the engine or from the bottom with the piece the oil pump is in removed from the engine. Which also means it's easy to disable the car for a while when you have to dig all the pieces out. Hose pliers are helpful. But it is hard to get a good grip. And often the metal will turn on the plastic.

Me too, and hardly a wear item. But thought it wasn't worth posting with new ones being so cheap. To the OP just for kicks please check the keyway to make sure there isn't some play.

I'm not getting a full picture either but clicking could be ABS unit. But that wouldn't cause starting issues - unless the battery is being compromised from it.

Around here structural rust is what kills the Pathfinders. So definately crawl under and check that out.

If the AC compressor is already installed you'll have to unbolt it to install this. Also the long bolts can get a bit cramped/bad clearance when doing this.

run away!

I've never seen this. Hope the OP lets us know what the solution is. Timing cold always be off a tooth or so but often you get cam/crank errors since the ECU can't actually tell you the timing belt is off and can't match up the signals. It'll occasionally throw a crank or cam sensor error - but not often a lot of the time. I've seen this on the DOHC's and imagine it could also happen on SOHC's.

Welcome to the USMB Search here - often asked question. Infact a thread or two about this last week. I have no experience with anything that new. But on Subaru's and their "wasted spark" ignition system that simply means it's an electrical problem. Plug(s), wire(s), or coil pack. Both those cylinders use the same part of the coil(3&4 are in the back).

7 PM EST I haven't seen it. Gotta believe it's probably a 95-99 Legacy. Just a heads up.